Water Tank Monitor

[Letterkenny]

Any good recommendations for an easy to install water tank level monitor? I’d prefer not to cut into the tank. I have a Scad with sensors for the outside I can try but it’s hard to access the side. Any other good ones out there?

[noelex 77]

The “Tank Tender” is very reliable accurate and one can be used to measure multiple tanks.

It does require a hole in the top of the tank, but this only needs to be about 5mm (3/16 inch) in diameter.

[sailorboy1]

I have been using the "pump doesn't turn off" monitoring system because I too don't want to get into the top of my tank (only 1 of 3 easy to get to) and can't get to the sides of the tank without tearing the boat up. I get track of tanks full/empty on a status board with things like run hours etc.

Doubt this helps other than you know someone else shares your "pain"

[SteveSails]

Here's an idea to install the tapes for the Scad monitor. Can you slide a wood batten along the side of the tank? If so cut the tape to length and attach to the batten with double sided tape. Peal off the metal tape liner and slide the batten down being careful not to get the tape stuck to the tank until it is in position. Now push the tape against the tank and use the batten to rub the tape for a good grip. Repeat for the other tape. The sensor module does not need to be between tapes and can sit on top of the tank.
I know this may not work if you don't have enough room but it may be worth a try.

Scad also has internal probes but you will need to cut a hole in the tank top for a 1" pipe thread fitting. Scad has adapter plates with a 1" threaded hole if you can't tap for a 1" pipe fitting. You can go to the Scad website SCADTECH.COM for more info.

Disclaimer: I'm involved with Scad

[Rumrace]

There are some inexpensive ones which work on wifi or wired.

[GordMay]

The SCAD Tank monitor seems to get excellent reviews, here, on CF [& elsewhere].
Anyone Use a SCAD Tank Monitor ? ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...tor-38797.html

I have read that, occasionally, the foil detaches from the tank, or the foil becomes corroded, or the stick on electrical contact (on the foil) either detaches, or becomes corroded. The strips are aluminum, and the electrical contact is copper, so corrosion can be problematic, if it’s damp.

Originally Posted by Rumrace

There are some inexpensive ones which work on wifi or wired.

Namely?

[SteveSails]

Yes, the aluminum foil can become corroded in a damp environment but that's easily fixed. Wipe clean the old foil, no need to remove, and stick another foil tape over it. The foil tape is 3M 3381 metal repair tape 1.88" wide, about $12 for 150ft at a hardware or big box store. If the copper stick on sensor pads came loose they can be held in place a piece of foil tape about 3" long. If the copper pad is too damaged to use Scad has repair kits to replace the copper pads. To reduce corrosion and extend the life of the foils clear packing tape can be put over the whole thing. Just be sure it is dry, you want to keep the moisture out not seal it in.

If there is a problem with the tapes sticking scuff up the tank side with a scotch brite pad and clean with isopropyl alcohol. Since the adhesive on the tape is pressure sensetive it helps to rub the tape well with a smooth wood or plastic stick, same for the copper pads.

[Letterkenny]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

There are some inexpensive ones which work on wifi or wired.

Seconded, which? I was thinking/hoping there would be some ultrasonic one that you can mount at the top that has a replaceable battery. With these production boats, it’s also very difficult to run wires after they assembled everything.

[jamhass]

Another vote for Tank Tenders. Note that not only can they measure multiple tanks (as already noted) but the tanks do not all need to have the same fluid. Same head unit can measure fuel, water -- even holding tank (with the optional purge kit.) Plus, the company is really nice to work with. Granted, they are not inexpensive, but they are spot-on accurate and very reliable.

[wsmurdoch]

We have these direct read mechanical gauges in our water tanks. They are bulletproof but do make a bit of noise when the water in the tank sloshes about.

https://rochestersensors.com/product/8200/

[Letterkenny]

Seems like I’ll run with the Scad and try to have the wife see if she can fit her hands on the side to mount it. Anyone know some good 22 awg to source (triplex preferred) online? Can’t seem to find any marine grade stuff after 18/20. Found this but not really sold on it. Anchor didn’t seem to make any here but that’s what the instructions call for.

22 Gauge Wire Solid Core Hookup Wires – 22 AWG Pre-Tinned, PVC (OD: 1.5mm) Coated Copper Wires 6 Colors (Black, Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, White) 33ft or 10m Each, Hook Up Wire Kit from Plusivo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KQFHV7...ZBZWSYQ61Z4VBS

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Letterkenny

... Anyone know some good 22 awg to source (triplex preferred) online? Can’t seem to find any marine grade stuff after 18/20...

Minimum Conductor Sizes

The ABYC [E-11] & USCG require conductors to be at least #16 AWG, except for the following situations:

18 AWG conductors may be used if included with other conductors in a sheath, and do not extend more than 30 in (762 mm) outside the sheath.
18 AWG conductors may be used as internal wiring on panelboards.
Conductors that are totally inside an equipment enclosure.
☞ Conductors on circuits of less than 60 V, having a current flow of less than three amps, in communication systems, electronic navigation equipment, and electronic circuits. (your application)
Pigtails less than seven inches (178 mm)

The ISO 13297 standard has a similar wording, requiring conductors to have a cross-sectional area of at least 1 mm² [≈ ±17AWG], unless they are in a common sheath, or internal wiring of a panelboard, in which case 0.75 mm² [≈ ±18AWG] can be used.

The ABYC Wire Sizer app easily calculates minimum conductor size for boats based on the parameters you enter. American Wire Gauge (AWG) results are based on ABYC requirements, and the metric (mm2) results are based on ISO requirements.
ABYC Wire Sizer App ($4.98) ➥ https://apps.apple.com/us/app/abyc-w...257748311?ls=1

[SteveSails]

The wire is not solid core but tinned stranded #22AWG. From the monitor to the sensor is 3 conductor. Power to the monitor is two conductor, #22 is allowed as long as you use the supplied 1 Amp fuse.

Wire for the tank monitors can be obtained here:
https://sailorssolutions.com/?Page=P...tank&submit=Go

If you need more help call Scad at 366-793-2003

[Letterkenny]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Minimum Conductor Sizes

The ABYC [E-11] & USCG require conductors to be at least #16 AWG, except for the following situations:

18 AWG conductors may be used if included with other conductors in a sheath, and do not extend more than 30 in (762 mm) outside the sheath.
18 AWG conductors may be used as internal wiring on panelboards.
Conductors that are totally inside an equipment enclosure.
☞ Conductors on circuits of less than 60 V, having a current flow of less than three amps, in communication systems, electronic navigation equipment, and electronic circuits. (your application)
Pigtails less than seven inches (178 mm)

The ISO 13297 standard has a similar wording, requiring conductors to have a cross-sectional area of at least 1 mm² [≈ ±17AWG], unless they are in a common sheath, or internal wiring of a panelboard, in which case 0.75 mm² [≈ ±18AWG] can be used.

The ABYC Wire Sizer app easily calculates minimum conductor size for boats based on the parameters you enter. American Wire Gauge (AWG) results are based on ABYC requirements, and the metric (mm2) results are based on ISO requirements.
ABYC Wire Sizer App ($4.98) ➥ https://apps.apple.com/us/app/abyc-w...257748311?ls=1

Alright Gord so between what was said here and below, can I use 18awg assuming it fits or should I be using the 22awg linked in the post below?

[SteveSails]

Either #22 or #18 wire will work just fine, your choice. Red crimp connectors accept #18 to #22 wire.

ABYC and ISO specs were written for power handling conductors, lighting, motors and other things where the typical current draw would cause a significant voltage drop and heating of the wire if not sized properly. Look at the wire size used on instruments like knot meters, depth sounder, masthead wind sensor and such, most are considerably smaller than #18. That's covered by the wires being in a sheath(cable), a current flow under 3Amps (way under in most cases) and less than 60V.