Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann
The dent of 30 to 50% in a line is not causing a three flash LED code. Because this is an Adler Barbour with a variable speed compressor and completed a major crossing I would concentrate on an electrical problem and do not make things worse by tampering with refrigerant or tubing. Smart nondestructive advice from John will prevent a major costly mistake.
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Hi, Seems to be two issues the OP has, a kinked pipe and repeated electronic unit failure.
Agree with others regards the kinked pipe.. if it's working ok then leave it alone but if you need to have it repaired, use a flared filter dryer like a 032 and avoid welding. Also avoid *spun copper so called filter dryers. *These should be called strainer dryers because they usually have no fibre filter pads internally just strainers and descant beads that rattle around and create more trouble than they're worth!. After any opening of these micro systems at least evacuate as previously described here, and if practical also replace the filter. The filter should be located just prior to the capillary or TEV entry.
Filter dryer flared..png
Regards the electronic unit failure. Apart from poor
power supplies, failure of the compressor manufacturer's electronic
motor driver is a most common problem and darned expensive. At Ozefridge we have over many years, logged outcomes from the thousands of systems we have in
service and along with
research by our electronics guru, have found some interesting factors. Among these findings we noted that for some reason a system installed on a yacht, similar to hundreds of others, will have repeated
electric unit failures while others similarly set up go for years / decades trouble free. In a few cases there was the reported simultaneous failure of the fan or sudden
radio interference noted when the fan run.
We analysed many of the failed items and concluded that there was two issues that were apparent. (Although other causes like
overheating can be a cause if there is no high temp cut off)
We believe that the main 'killers' of these electronic units are high voltage spikes (Transient voltages) coming from other areas on the
boat, and in a few cases corruption from faulty condenser fans powered from the electronic unit.
A simple protection is to fit a 'zorb' or voltage clamping diode with a clamp voltage of say 35VDC. This $1 item is simply fitted across the
power input positive and negative. If a spike of greater voltage occurs, the diode will clamp it (kill it!) before it damages your electronics.
In this picture the Zorb is being fitted to the 12VDC terminals on this production line. (Can be fitted here or anywhere on the DC supply line)
Regards condenser fans: We never draw power for the fan(s) from the electronic unit. Have the electronic unit drive a relay and let the relay switch fans on with 12VDC power direct. This way a faulty fan can not harm the electronic unit.
I hope this helps to prevent the waste of otherwise good
equipment.
Cheers, OzePete
www.ozefridge.com.au
Fitting Zorbs.jpg