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30-09-2009, 09:36
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Boat: 1969 Pearson 22
Posts: 10
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Through-Hull Valve Frozen in Open Position
I recently purchased a 1969 Pearson 22. I know it's not exactly a super cruiser, but it's my first cruiser/racer that I wanted to get started on with weekend trips, etc. I've been an avid sailor all my life, but have never had the opportunity to purchase a boat other than racing dinghies. The boat is in great shape and clearly well maintained. But, the through hulls valves for the WC HEAD MATE are frozen in the open position. I've perused the threads about fixing through-hull valves and have gained some valuable insight, but everything was relating to the valves being frozen shut. I was wondering if anyone had any insight on what to do with the valves being frozen in the open position. I would greatly appreciate any information or direction I may be able to obtain.
Thanks so much, and I look forward to becoming a part of this community.
Thanks,
CH
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30-09-2009, 09:47
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Boat: J40 #33 since 1987
Posts: 228
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What kind/material are the valves? You can often free them by plugging the through hull from the outside, taking the hose off at the top (above the waterline), dumping out the seawater and filling it with vinegar and letting it soak overnight. Still might take a bit of force and repeated application of vinegar. And if gate valves, the gate may be too damaged to do this.
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30-09-2009, 09:56
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Boat: 1969 Pearson 22
Posts: 10
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The valves are metal. Any suggestions as to a plugging material from the outside of the hull?
I appreciate your help.
Thanks,
CH
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30-09-2009, 10:02
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Houston
Boat: ‘01 Catana 401
Posts: 9,627
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do your valves have a long handle on one side, with 2 nuts on the opposite side? If so another trick you can try is to loosen, but not remove the nuts, tap on the side of the valve that has the nuts with a hammer(protect the threads with wood), and then try to turn the handle. It may leak a little while this is going on.
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30-09-2009, 10:04
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Boat: J40 #33 since 1987
Posts: 228
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You can buy readymade tapered wood plugs from any chandlery. A good thing to keep on the boat anyway, just in case.
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30-09-2009, 10:05
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: "...barren elbow of sand..."
Boat: Pearson 26
Posts: 189
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Plug it from the outside with a tapered wooden bung like these (or just pull the boat out of the water if you have a trailer):
West Marine: Wooden Plugs Product Display 710&Ne=0&Ntt=wooden plug&Ntk=Primary Search&Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=wooden plug&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=8&subdeptNum=52&cla ssNum=10897
(The valves are made of bronze)
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30-09-2009, 10:32
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#7
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Registered User

Join Date: May 2008
Location: We're technically refugees from our home in Yemen now living in Lebenon
Boat: 1978 CT48
Posts: 5,970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailmonkey
do your valves have a long handle on one side, with 2 nuts on the opposite side? If so another trick you can try is to loosen, but not remove the nuts, tap on the side of the valve that has the nuts with a hammer(protect the threads with wood), and then try to turn the handle. It may leak a little while this is going on.
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This is what I would do...these are tapered and this is very easy.
__________________
James
S/V Arctic Lady
I love my boat, I can't afford not to!
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30-09-2009, 10:48
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#8
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 51,805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sded
You can buy readymade tapered wood plugs from any chandlery. A good thing to keep on the boat anyway, just in case.
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Be careful of the really nice teak plugs, sold at many chandeleries, which are too hard.
You want a SOFT wood tapered plug, that will deform slightly as you drive it in.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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30-09-2009, 15:49
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus

Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld, Australia
Boat: Tayana Vancouver 42
Posts: 5,175
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If it aint broke...
If the only problem with your through hull valves is that they are "stuck" open, but everything else (hoses, clamps, sealants) is in good condition have you considered leaving them until the boat is next out of the water and then replacing them with quality new items?
Sounds like they have lasted a long time like this. I've had too many thing break when I used just a little too much force.
Having some leak plugging gear would be a good idea though.
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30-09-2009, 16:50
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX/Bocas del Toro, Panama
Boat: 1990 Macintosh 47, "Merlin"
Posts: 2,869
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I wouldn't try ANY of the above without some plugs on hand. Just asking for trouble to do anything with a thru hull without plugs...
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30-09-2009, 17:44
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#11
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Long Range Cruiser
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Australian living on "Sea Life" currently in England.
Boat: Beneteau 393 "Sea Life"
Posts: 12,820
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We have one stuck open and I'm leaving it as is till we get hauled next. So use in risking siniking the boat by playing with it.
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