Substitute for Raritan's CP

[PamlicoTraveler]

Raritan says to use on CP (clean potty) in their toilets, but it is expensive. I know it is just a mild soapy cleanser of some sort.

Any recommendation for what can be used that would not harm the toilet and the fittings MD parts. Maybe something like Joy diluted in water or with vinegar added?

Peggy Hall, any comment?

[GordMay]

According to the MSDS, both CP & KO contain “viable bacterial cultures”
➥ http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/.../L309v0103.pdf
➥ http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/.../L308v0103.pdf

[svpattyd]

BioGreen Clean. Buy it over the net. Dilute 1:5. Works just as well as KO and CP.

[Cormorant]

Vinegar alone would probably do most of what you're hoping for. (I don't think you should be putting dishwashing liquid in there, but I'm no expert.)

In any case, I like the smell of CP much better. Plus it has those enzymes and bacteria that one assumes serve a noble purpose.

One thing I notice about CP is it's very concentrated and you can use much less than you might think. When we first installed our Raritan PHII, we got one of those little (3 oz?) sample bottles of CP. We used it very sparingly and it lasted a whole summer. Then we bought a quart bottle . . . used it with reckless abandon . . . and it lasted a summer.

[peghall]

4 years after the fact is a bit late to reply, but I just saw this for the first time today...

Originally Posted by PamlicoTraveler

Raritan says to use on CP (clean potty) in their toilets, but it is expensive. I know it is just a mild soapy cleanser of some sort. Peggy Hall, any comment?

No, C.P. is NOT just a mild soapy cleanser...it's a bio-active cleanser that destroys odor on contact and "eats" scum on bowl walls. You only need to squirt it under the rim and walk away to come back to a clean bowl.

That also makes it the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet, 'cuz those enzymes also "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease etc that clog up sumps and sink drains. A couple of ounces down the shower or sink drain when it can stand at least overnight--'cuz the enzymes need time to work--is all that's needed.

Fwiw, I'm intimately familiar with C.P. because it's part of the product line my own company developed and sold to Raritan in 1999.

Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors -
A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Bo...dp/1892399784/

"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

[SailFastTri]

Thanks Peggie -
Is it a good idea to leave C.P. in the toilet bowl long-term (e.g. a week or two when leaving the boat)? Will it harm or deform rubber parts?

[peghall]

I should have read the whole thread before writing my reply below...to answer your most recent question:

Is it a good idea to leave C.P. in the toilet bowl long-term (e.g. a week or two when leaving the boat)? Will it harm or deform rubber parts?

That won't hurt anything, but it won't accomplish anything after 8-12 hours either, 'cuz the cultures die.

Originally Posted by PamlicoTraveler

Raritan says to use on CP (clean potty) in their toilets, but it is expensive. I know it is just a mild soapy cleanser of some sort. Any recommendation for what can be used that would not harm the toilet and the fittings MD parts. Maybe something like Joy diluted in water or with vinegar added? Peggy Hall, any comment?

Before we developed C.P. (it's part of the product line that I sold to Raritan in 1999), I kept a pair of rubber gloves under the vanity and used a LITTLE Comet on a wet paper towel to clean the bowl. The tiny bit that might be left to flush isn't enough to matter. You can use SoftScrub or any other dry or wet abrasive cleanser--or anything else that you wipe 99% out. Just DON'T flush household chemical bowl cleaners, though....or Lysol or bleach or pine oil cleaners!

However, there is an even better use for C.P than cleaning toilet bowls. It's NOT just a mild soapy cleansers, it's bio-active cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all those things that go down shower and sink drains to clog 'em up and make 'em stink...making it the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet!

Sumps: Once every week or two, or when closing up the boat, run clean water through it to rinse it out, leaving 2-3" in it--enough to cover the sump pump intake. Add about 2 oz C.P. down the shower drain--or icebox or whatever drain feeds a particular sump--when it can stand at least overnight (the enzymes need time to work)...it won't harm anything, so it can remain in the sump indefinitely). When you return, run enough water into the sump(s) to rinse it out. That's all you'll ever need to do have clean, sweet smelling sumps.

Sink drains: Again, when it can stand at least overnight, close the seacock(s) and put an ounce of C.P down the drain...fill the drain with water. When you wake up or return to the boat whenever, open the seacocks and rinse out the drain with clean water. Done.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

Thanks Peggie -
Is it a good idea to leave C.P. in the toilet bowl long-term (e.g. a week or two when leaving the boat)? Will it harm or deform rubber parts?

Peggie -
Are you able to answer this? Thanks in advance.

[peghall]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

Peggie -
Are you able to answer this? Thanks in advance.

I've already answered it...see post #8 in this thread.

[WizardOfTheWind]

Originally Posted by peghall

I should have read the whole thread before writing my reply below...to answer your most recent question:

Is it a good idea to leave C.P. in the toilet bowl long-term (e.g. a week or two when leaving the boat)? Will it harm or deform rubber parts?

That won't hurt anything, but it won't accomplish anything after 8-12 hours either, 'cuz the cultures die.



Before we developed C.P. (it's part of the product line that I sold to Raritan in 1999), I kept a pair of rubber gloves under the vanity and used a LITTLE Comet on a wet paper towel to clean the bowl. The tiny bit that might be left to flush isn't enough to matter. You can use SoftScrub or any other dry or wet abrasive cleanser--or anything else that you wipe 99% out. Just DON'T flush household chemical bowl cleaners, though....or Lysol or bleach or pine oil cleaners!

However, there is an even better use for C.P than cleaning toilet bowls. It's NOT just a mild soapy cleansers, it's bio-active cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all those things that go down shower and sink drains to clog 'em up and make 'em stink...making it the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet!

Sumps: Once every week or two, or when closing up the boat, run clean water through it to rinse it out, leaving 2-3" in it--enough to cover the sump pump intake. Add about 2 oz C.P. down the shower drain--or icebox or whatever drain feeds a particular sump--when it can stand at least overnight (the enzymes need time to work)...it won't harm anything, so it can remain in the sump indefinitely). When you return, run enough water into the sump(s) to rinse it out. That's all you'll ever need to do have clean, sweet smelling sumps.

Sink drains: Again, when it can stand at least overnight, close the seacock(s) and put an ounce of C.P down the drain...fill the drain with water. When you wake up or return to the boat whenever, open the seacocks and rinse out the drain with clean water. Done.

Peggie,

I have not long read your book and I have been trying to find out where I can get Odorlos and KO here in Australia but I cannot find it. To buy either from the US the freight costs about 4 times the amount of the product(s) so am reluctant to go down that path. Would you know of anyone here that sells it, or any other alternatives? I have been in contact with Valterra but they only have two RV distributors in Australia and neither of them imports Odorlos (maybe a business opportunity!).

I actually installed a vent filter in my line only a few weeks ago in my Catalina 42 but, after reading your book I guess I am going to take it out again soon

David

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Wizard.

[peghall]

I have not long read your book and I have been trying to find out where I can get Odorlos and KO here in Australia but I cannot find it.

There is a Raritan distributor in OZ... A.M.I. Sales. They have (4) locations in the country; with their head office in O'Connor, Western Australia. They cover most of the major populated areas of Australia: Queensland (Gold Coast/Brisbane), New South Wales (Sydney area) and South Australia (Adelaide), as well as O'Connor (Perth/Fremantle area) in Western Australia. Check with them to see if they provide K.O. and C.P. to any retailers.

Odorlos should be available from RV ("caravan") supply stores in OZ.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Bo...dp/1892399784/

[svHyLyte]

While not inexpensive, we have found that one doesn't seem to need much CP to be effective. We add a cap-full to the condensate pan on our air conditioner from time to time, a good squirt into our bilge once a week where water collects, and a squirt or so in the galley and lavatory sinks and shower drain and the yacht never seems to develop the "boat odor" that some (many?) do. We also use the materiel in our heads, including our forward head that's equipped with a LectraSan and we have no "head odors". I don't know what Peg put into the material but it's certainly great "stuff" and seems to help keep everything flowing smoothly.

FWIW...

[peghall]

You forgot to mention sink drains.

It works best when it can stand at least overnight, 'cuz although it destroys odor on contact, it takes time for the enzymes in it to "eat" the grease, hair, soap scum etc that clog drains and sump pumps.

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by peghall

You forgot to mention sink drains.

It works best when it can stand at least overnight, 'cuz although it destroys odor on contact, it takes time for the enzymes in it to "eat" the grease, hair, soap scum etc that clog drains and sump pumps.

ah... Peg. Please...

...We add a cap-full to the condensate pan on our air conditioner from time to time, a good squirt into our bilge once a week where water collects, and a squirt or so in the galley and lavatory sinks and shower drains and the yacht never seems to develop the "boat odor" that some (many?) do.