Stubborn Valve

[gbendaly]

hi

I have tried all the tricks I know to loosen the main inlet ball valve for the heads in my boat... with no success
I even poured some hot oil into the hose connected to it... to no avail
any one out there can suggest a way to make the stubborn ball turn in its housing or should I wait for the haul up and replace the valve altogether?

thanks

[Sandero]

Doesn't sound too great. How about a heat gun? It sounds like it's time to replace. But if you are in the water that means a haulout.

Remove the hose and have a look at the ball. Make sure you have a plug available.

[Ziggy]

If you have the room, put a 1 foot piece of pipe on the handle and try to open/close. That may work, or you may break the valve handle or shaft, so be prepared to replace, as defjef said. Also, keep a wooden plug handy.

[James S]

What are the valves made of?

[MitchM]

i have a frozen bronze seacock raw water inlet valve, only 4 years old and greased religiously every spring and fall at haulout . the handle is still securely attached. the seacock ball is now frozen in 'off' position. i squirted some WD40 down into the valve ball assembly. will wait to try the breaker bar next week end. there is a product 'PB Blaster' that says it will break up old corrosion, they suggest spraying it in and waiting a 1/2 hour and knocking the valve body with a hammer. any one have any other ideas????

[Boracay]

I'd suggest thinking twice before using a hammer.

I've had too many bits break off when I used a little too much force.

I've had more success using heat.

My suggestions (Caution - the valve may break off completely. You must have an effect way of stopping water ingress if this happens. If you don't do not do this in the water.):-
1) Use whatever penetrating oil/fluid you think is appropriate after reading the label and getting technical advice.
I've had a bit of luck with silicon spray. Others argue that silicon has no place on a boat with good reason (It will be very hard to paint anywhere the silicon goes. For "O" rings it's great).
2) Work the handle gently by hand. If you can get any movement at all then that's enough. Keeping the "cracks" wet with your lubricant of choice gently "massage" the valve handle.
3) Apply gentle heat from a heat gun or similar. Alternate heat/lubricant/massage - Use the cooling after the heat to try to suck lubricant into the cracks.. If the valve is still frozen be prepared to up the heat a little. Keep the area well ventilated (If the area is very confined restrict yourself to only working a few minutes at a time with plenty of breaks to get fresh air.), and have a fire extinguisher handy!

In all of this patience is the key. Be satisfied with tiny movements, and be prepared to take days, weeks or even months to free the valve!

[Sandero]

Put PB Blaster into the valve. Leave it for 24 hours. You might also try a heat gun and tap it with a mallet. PB is great, but it takes time. Repeat. Better to do this on the hard.

[hugosalt]

I have used dry ice a few times over the years...works best when you can
isolate a piece on the ball...hold in place for about five minutes (with a well
insulated glove or rag) then try. Use with penetrating oil of choice. Try a few
times...let it warm up in between. The idea is you want shrink the ball with
the cold and let the penetrating oil find its way in...you want to freeze the ball
not the valve around it by holding the dry ice only to the ball. I might use
with a little extra leverage, but I'm afraid I don't swim well enough to try
with a hammer! I have used this method to replace a zinc in my sail drive
recently.