Spectra Watermaker for 500 bones! Up and running, Tellie are you out there!?

[JArcherM]

Ill start out by saying I am a pretty mechanical guy, but not much experience with Spectra. Im in the Grenadines currently so getting parts and cleaners is difficult.

But....what an awesome find!

Spectra Ventura 150 deluxe for 500 bucks! Manufactured in early 2020. Awesome. It came without the feed pump module, so I had to build one with a few valves. I installed new prefilters and a dedicated through hull, finally got it up and started with a reviving method given to me by Spectra. Unfortunately, the unit is not working perfectly...no surprise. But I feel good because the last owner was unable to even get product water out of it. I think from his description there was too much above the waterline. He had replaced the feed pump head and even tried multiple feed pumps with no luck. Such a shame that he didn't pickle it.

Heres the lowdown.

It was left unpickled for quite a long time. Over 8 months before he tried to sell it. Im guessing the membrane will need replacing, but I was told some have seen them come back from the dead with sc-2 cleaning or long periods of flushing.

The feed pump was inspected before I purchased it and had an inspection tag saying it was in good shape. Not sure where it was inspected.

I did a saltwater rinse for about 3 hours, and fired it up to see where I was. I had no clark pump pressure but good flow from the feed pump. I kinked the brine hose about 10 times (maybe once or twice more) and started getting cycling from the pistons, my guess is they were stuck?

Anyways current cycling pressure is 40-50 with 5-6 gph

sample water is 2400 ppm 5 minutes in and 1384 ppm after 10 minutes and 1220 after 20 minutes 1150 after 30 minutes.
---------------------
---My next move is to flush warm water through it and let it sit overnight, if that doesn't work, then try to get some sc-2 and do the same. ???

---The only other thing Im worried about is if i start the unit, and slowly close the pressure relief valve, nothing happens until i kink the brine hose. ???

---I don't want to run the system under pressure any longer until I get some direction. Is there any harm in running it?

-Is there anything I can use besides sc-2 to clean it?

[GreenWave]

as was stated in the other thread, don't even think about tryng to clean this membrane. Get a new one. Now that may not be easy where you are, but your PPM readings are no where close to usable water.

[JArcherM]

Originally Posted by GreenWave

as was stated in the other thread, don't even think about tryng to clean this membrane. Get a new one. Now that may not be easy where you are, but your PPM readings are no where close to usable water.

Totally agree, i was given a link to a spectra doc from one of their techs and it says:

"Depending on the medium that was used for membrane storage (sc-1 or propylene glycol) the system will be stored for 6mo or 1 year, respectively. How long it will last beyond that is largely dependent on the environmental conditions it’s being stored in (warmer typically means faster growth accumulation). There is a chance the membrane will be ok. To recap, extensive bacterial growth will destroy the membrane, mild bacterial growth can be rinsed out. Before assuming your membrane is destroyed, run non-chlorinated freshwater or seawater though the system for up to 6 hours with the pressure relief valve open. As a substitute or follow up procedure bacterial growth can be cleaned out with SC-2 Alkaline cleaner. There have been cases where membranes have been growing bacteria for 6 months and they were able to be salvaged, so it would definitely be worth a shot."

Wondering also if the membrane would cause the lack of pressure before kinking the brine hose or if that is a symptom of something more.

[Marathon1150]

Our Ventura 150 sat pickled for 2.5 years and I brought it back to life about 4 weeks ago using directions from Tellie and others. Spectra was the least helpful.

Here is what Tellie suggested. I ran the freshwater flush for about an hour. The unit is now producing about 6g/h with TDS of 190-200. Ours is a fully a fully manual unit.

**********************************
"Nah, you listen to me instead. Fill your fresh water tanks up with dock water. Replace your charcoal filter with a new one. The charcoal filter will take care if any residual chlorine found in residential water. That's the sole purpose of the charcoal filter. Open your pressure relief valve about 3/4 to 1 full turn. Depending on whether you have a manual unit or a fully automated one the procedure will be different. On a manual unit with the thru hull intake closed open the valve on the charcoal filter and start your feed pump. If the pump is working and pushing water through the system let it do this for about 45 minutes. This will use about 70-80 gallons of fresh dock water. After that keep the system running and slowly close the pressure relief valve watching the pressure gauge and flow meter at the same time. No hurry here. If the pressure builds to 40 psi or better, then watch the flow meter and let it clear the air completely out and once you have a solid flow of water through the meter you should see 7-10 gallons per stroke depending on whether you have a Ventura 150 or 200T. If you see these numbers then stop the system, open the intake thru hull, close off the grey valve on the charcoal filter so fresh water stops flowing. Start the system again until the salt water starts flowing through the system. Check your flow meter and pressure gauge again. If your pressures are 55psi or better and your flow meter shows 6-8 gph you're almost there. Use your hand held TDS meter to test the product water. Anything under 500PPMs and Bobs your uncle. Now for a fully automated system, run about 7-10 fresh water flushing cycles with the pressure relief valve open. Then close the pressure relief valve, set your system for one hour and then scroll to the salinity reading on your control panel by pressing the "Alarm Display" button. Again, if you see less than 500PPMs your golden."
*****************************************

Good luck. But at the price that you paid, even if you have to buy a new membrane and new feed pump you will have done well.

[JArcherM]

Originally Posted by Marathon1150

Our Ventura 150 sat pickled for 2.5 years and I brought it back to life about 4 weeks ago using directions from Tellie and others. Spectra was the least helpful.

Here is what Tellie suggested. I ran the freshwater flush for about an hour. The unit is now producing about 6g/h with TDS of 190-200. Ours is a fully a fully manual unit.

**********************************
"Nah, you listen to me instead. Fill your fresh water tanks up with dock water. Replace your charcoal filter with a new one. The charcoal filter will take care if any residual chlorine found in residential water. That's the sole purpose of the charcoal filter. Open your pressure relief valve about 3/4 to 1 full turn. Depending on whether you have a manual unit or a fully automated one the procedure will be different. On a manual unit with the thru hull intake closed open the valve on the charcoal filter and start your feed pump. If the pump is working and pushing water through the system let it do this for about 45 minutes. This will use about 70-80 gallons of fresh dock water. After that keep the system running and slowly close the pressure relief valve watching the pressure gauge and flow meter at the same time. No hurry here. If the pressure builds to 40 psi or better, then watch the flow meter and let it clear the air completely out and once you have a solid flow of water through the meter you should see 7-10 gallons per stroke depending on whether you have a Ventura 150 or 200T. If you see these numbers then stop the system, open the intake thru hull, close off the grey valve on the charcoal filter so fresh water stops flowing. Start the system again until the salt water starts flowing through the system. Check your flow meter and pressure gauge again. If your pressures are 55psi or better and your flow meter shows 6-8 gph you're almost there. Use your hand held TDS meter to test the product water. Anything under 500PPMs and Bobs your uncle. Now for a fully automated system, run about 7-10 fresh water flushing cycles with the pressure relief valve open. Then close the pressure relief valve, set your system for one hour and then scroll to the salinity reading on your control panel by pressing the "Alarm Display" button. Again, if you see less than 500PPMs your golden."
*****************************************

Good luck. But at the price that you paid, even if you have to buy a new membrane and new feed pump you will have done well.

Thank you, shame... I am currently out of dock water, hence the fire under my ass for the install.

Feed pump is putting out good pressure, maybe flow could be down, but I doubt it considering it is "barely used"


What do you think about having to shock the clark pump by kinking?

[capn_billl]

What do you think about having to shock the clark pump by kinking?

That's bad sign.

I've worked on industrial RO systems so take that in mind, but I've seen RO membranes ruined beyond repair by bad flow rates, and pressures, not to mention sitting too long without flow.

Any water I'm drinking will be from a fresh membrane in good working condition.

They aren't that expensive, and are a consumable item.

If the pump isn't working right, that may be a separate problem, or the membrane may be leaking through.

[JArcherM]

Originally Posted by JArcherM

Ill start out by saying I am a pretty mechanical guy, but not much experience with Spectra. Im in the Grenadines currently so getting parts and cleaners is difficult.

But....what an awesome find!

Spectra Ventura 150 deluxe for 500 bucks! Manufactured in early 2020. Awesome. It came without the feed pump module, so I had to build one with a few valves. I installed new prefilters and a dedicated through hull, finally got it up and started with a reviving method given to me by Spectra. Unfortunately, the unit is not working perfectly...no surprise. But I feel good because the last owner was unable to even get product water out of it. I think from his description there was too much above the waterline. He had replaced the feed pump head and even tried multiple feed pumps with no luck. Such a shame that he didn't pickle it.

Heres the lowdown.

It was left unpickled for quite a long time. Over 8 months before he tried to sell it. Im guessing the membrane will need replacing, but I was told some have seen them come back from the dead with sc-2 cleaning or long periods of flushing.

The feed pump was inspected before I purchased it and had an inspection tag saying it was in good shape. Not sure where it was inspected.

CORRECTION......THE CLARK PUMP WAS INSPECTED - TAG SAID CLARK PUMP GOOD.

I did a saltwater rinse for about 3 hours, and fired it up to see where I was. I had no clark pump pressure but good flow from the feed pump. I kinked the brine hose about 10 times (maybe once or twice more) and started getting cycling from the pistons, my guess is they were stuck?

Anyways current cycling pressure is 40-50 with 5-6 gph

sample water is 2400 ppm 5 minutes in and 1384 ppm after 10 minutes and 1220 after 20 minutes 1150 after 30 minutes.
---------------------
---My next move is to flush warm water through it and let it sit overnight, if that doesn't work, then try to get some sc-2 and do the same. ???

---The only other thing Im worried about is if i start the unit, and slowly close the pressure relief valve, nothing happens until i kink the brine hose. ???

---I don't want to run the system under pressure any longer until I get some direction. Is there any harm in running it?

-Is there anything I can use besides sc-2 to clean it?

CORRECTION MADE MID PARAGRAPH IN REGARD TO CLARK PUMP

[DMCantor]

Not sure about Covid entry protocols, but there is an excellent Spectra technician in Rodney Bay on St. Lucia. Regis Electronics. They can source any needed parts. I recommend them without hesitation.

[JArcherM]

ok, so i tore down the clark pump. Found the fittings have corroded and sent crap everywhere. Cleaned everything up as best as possible. Removed some scoring on the spool valve and annular rings, and cleaned up the horribly dirty check valves. When I put it back together had no flow and no switching at all. I scratched my head a minute and went to work diagnosing. Pulled the test port and had a solid stream of water.......

OMG.

I went back to the bench and I had set my tool bag on top of one of the pistons. Yes. If you leave out a piston it causes an internal leak. Removed the tube, installed an BOOM! Wonderful operation and any bit of asymmetrical operation is now gone. The check valves were very stuck and gunked up but no longer. SO now I do not have to kink the hose to get it moving.

PPMS are still at approx 1600 -- 4500 at start up and after 15 minutes drop to 1400-1700
Pressure is 45-50 psi
Feed pump sounds tired now but still ramps up to 125, just not as fast as I would like.
Volume is still good though
Product water is 5-7 gph depending on if the sun is out


Seems to me at this point the Membrane is the likely culprit but I cant say for sure until I fix the leaks from the high pressure stainless lines to nickel bronze fittings. They corroded and the ferrules are in poor shape. Why in the world spectra went with those fittings is insane to me. What a great watermaker but so much damage from one material used.

I found a free spare feed pump virtually new, just needs new wires soldered to the motor because the owner cut them, the clark pump is working well and I will definitely get a new membrane based on how much water has flowed across this and through it with no lower ppm than 1070. The thing is I am in Bequia and it will be a bit before I can get parts. So I am anxiously waiting.

Any thoughts are much appreciated. I feel like I am on the right track.

[Tellie]

At $500 I would have bought it sight unseen. I have been gone for a bit. Did you get all your questions answered? If your top block assembly is scored so are your cylinders and pistons, perhaps the piston rod as well. But all in all, good work.

[JArcherM]

Originally Posted by Tellie

At $500 I would have bought it sight unseen. I have been gone for a bit. Did you get all your questions answered? If your top block assembly is scored so are your cylinders and pistons, perhaps the piston rod as well. But all in all, good work.

Hey J.T.
Thanks. I feel a lot more comfortable with these units now. Fairly simple idea and pretty neat design. I can hear what I believe is the spool valve leaking/sticking still and possibly still getting a sticking check valve. I am going to take it apart tomorrow again and reinspect everything. The pressure sometimes will hold and water production will occur. I have only small drips from the service port. I felt the tubes with my fingernail and saw no scoring but those annular rings are definitely needing replacement. The membrane was discolored. When I put it back together last time it ran great then I lost pressure after 3 or four uses to fill tanks (for showers with high ppm). Everything was running well for hours and when the pressure is lost it basically starts with internal leaking in the CP at the block, then with each stroke the pressure drops off until zero. Never happened before. So I am interested to see what I find. If I kink the brine hose pressure will return and it will run fine until something sticks and then it steps down to zero again.

Have you ever shipped to Martinique?

Right now need at minimum new high pressure stainless tubes, fittings, annular rings and spool, and a membrane.

Thanks again!

-Jake

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by JArcherM

Hey J.T.
Thanks. I feel a lot more comfortable with these units now. Fairly simple idea and pretty neat design. I can hear what I believe is the spool valve leaking/sticking still and possibly still getting a sticking check valve. I am going to take it apart tomorrow again and reinspect everything. The pressure sometimes will hold and water production will occur. I have only small drips from the service port. I felt the tubes with my fingernail and saw no scoring but those annular rings are definitely needing replacement. The membrane was discolored. When I put it back together last time it ran great then I lost pressure after 3 or four uses to fill tanks (for showers with high ppm). Everything was running well for hours and when the pressure is lost it basically starts with internal leaking in the CP at the block, then with each stroke the pressure drops off until zero. Never happened before. So I am interested to see what I find. If I kink the brine hose pressure will return and it will run fine until something sticks and then it steps down to zero again.

Have you ever shipped to Martinique?

Right now need at minimum new high pressure stainless tubes, fittings, annular rings and spool, and a membrane.

Thanks again!

-Jake

No problem glad to help.

What might be nice is to post pictures here of all the parts when you have the pump disassembled. If I can see good quality close up pics of the parts I can help a lot more and perhaps others here may benefit as well.

[JArcherM]

Originally Posted by Tellie

No problem glad to help.

What might be nice is to post pictures here of all the parts when you have the pump disassembled. If I can see good quality close up pics of the parts I can help a lot more and perhaps others here may benefit as well.

Sounds like a good idea for a youtube video and some close of photos! Ill get after it today. Thanks!

[JArcherM]

Well, before I took this apart I ran it one more time. It just doesnt make sense to me that the pressures would fall that much after cleaning the whole thing out even if something got in there and scored the inside of the CP the pressures wouldn't likely go to zero. The question for me is the kinking of the brine hose. Its like the darn thing works perfect for a few cycles then falls off because the pump cant keep up pressure. Every cycle it falls behind until it reads zero. SO yes a leak is possible but i started putting crosshairs on the feed pump. Something had changed since my disassembly and reinstallation, but I don't think it was the CP. When I ran the unit today, I noticed the motor changing pitch just for a second, sounded like i lost solar and maybe a voltage supply problem but the sun is high and no clouds so I looked closer. Nothing visual. But being that a friend gave me a spare spectra feed pump (because he had his replaced due to poor diagnosis by a tech somewhere) i thought well it wont hurt. Before I could install his pump I needed to install new wires to the brushed because the leads on the motor were clipped at the housing. I removed the cover and inspected the armature and everything....looks brand new as he said it pretty much was. I removed the feed pump installed currently to the spectra and removed the cover. Sand and parts came out. Sand. Why is there sand? Sand, salt, and parts. Not really what you want in a feed motor. Well when prying out the rubber plug to install new wiring on the new motor I cracked the freaking brush housing. So I am now in the middle of soldering all the new stuff onto the old brush housing and should be done in a little bit. We will see what happens here. Stay tuned!

[sailorboy1]

Till you measure flow rates you are just spinning wheels. If the feed pump is good the only thing that can stop pressure build up is a leaking check valve, spool etc in the clark or a hole in a membrane.