Spectra water maker fresh water flush module valve position

[Portage_bay]

I'm getting ready to start up a long pickled yet new to me Spectra Newport 400. PO left the flush water flush module valve in "OFF". The manual I have says nothing about where this valve should be to start and run. "RUN" or "SERVICE" are the labeled options.

I've called Spectra, they are not answering calls.

I've changed all the filters.

[themorb]

The first thing you will be doing is running lots of seawater through it with the pressure screw cracked off to purge all the pickling chemicals out.

That valve should be set to RUN (seawater). OFF is nothing and SERVICE takes input from the hose cap that is on the module (to suck in pickling chemicals.) PO would have left it at OFF just so somebody doesn't accidentally flush the chemicals out.

[Portage_bay]

themorb thank you for the very clear explanation.

[Luckyrican]

I recently purchase a boat with the Spectra 400 watermaker and when I attempt to run the program to begin making water, the controller indicate -3psi and doesn’t appear to make water.

The system has all new filters, how do I purge the system or flush with fresh water. Zit doesn’t appear to engage.

Thank you kinejy in advance!

Keith

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by Luckyrican

I recently purchase a boat with the Spectra 400 watermaker and when I attempt to run the program to begin making water, the controller indicate -3psi and doesn’t appear to make water.

The system has all new filters, how do I purge the system or flush with fresh water. Zit doesn’t appear to engage.

Thank you kinejy in advance!

Keith

Hi Keith, When you get -3psi boost pressure your system is reading a vacuum. The very first thing to do is check your boost pump. This is the pressures that the -3psi represents. Close your intake thru hull, unscrew the boost pump ring and hold the pump in your hand. Flip the toggle switch to "RUN MAN" just for a few seconds and the rotor should instantly start and run bearing smooth at around 1500-2000rpm. Any wobbling, hesitation to start turning and there is a problem and the pump in not pumping thus the -3psi. If your boost pump is running as it should, remove the twenty-micron filter canister and place a bucket or pan underneath. Flip RUN MAN again. If the boost pump is turning and getting input water it will flow from the top of the 20 micron filter canister into your bucket. If not, close the thru hull and remove the raw water strainer canister, open the intake thru hull, you should have a healthy flow of water coming from the raw water strainer. If not, you will need to disassemble the black check valve on the input to the raw water strainer and check for blockage. If this is all clear check your intake thru hull for any blockage. If all this fails, let me know.

[Luckyrican]

Thank you sir. We were able to contact Spectra and resolved the issue. The boost pump was ok, the factory setting on the other pump located in the white electrical box was set to only 5 volts and need to be 13 volts. There are red bars for the speed level that need to be set with a magnet to allow for the machine to operate normally.

Again, thank you!

[Tellie]

Yeah, the pump has to be running at speed for sure. That electronic piece is the Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) Those red bars are the reeds to either adjust motor speed up or down using a simple magnet. Did Spectra go through all the motor speed calibrations, or did they just speed up the motor for auto run? If they didn't go through all the calibrations, it is quite important that you do,

[Luckyrican]

Thank you Tellie, yes, we did set the proper speed on the auto function and also set the motor speed on the manual run option. Interesting there is two different calibrations.

We also check voltage on both side of the speeds to include the two center brass screws under the white lid green circuit board which gives the input voltage to the motors. They indicate that this important to be sure we have proper voltage input o the unit.

Again, really appreciate your assistance. We did find the boost pressure sensor was inoperative and needs replacement. For those that have sensors inoperative on this watermaker, you can enter the dealer settings function, enter “admin, and password admin and disable the sensor to allow water to be made. Definitely good to know.

[Tellie]

Hope you don't mind, but for others that read this. My response in RED

Sorry then red did not come through, but my response is still in the body of your post.

Originally Posted by Luckyrican

Thank you Tellie, yes, we did set the proper speed on the auto function and also set the motor speed on the manual run option. These two are the same, adjust one the other followsInteresting there is two different calibrations. OK, there is one more speed calibration you need to do and that's for the freshwater flush (FWF). You MUST do this one properly and it must be done sooner than later. If your system is not flushing properly regardless of what the control screen says is going on, you will go through the life of your membrane quite quickly. If you aren't checking the PPMs of your brine discharge after your flush I can almost guarantee it is not set up properly. If you have not done this, I highly suggest that we speak so it is set up properly.

We also check voltage on both side of the speeds to include the two center brass screws under the white lid green circuit board which gives the input voltage to the motors. They indicate that this important to be sure we have proper voltage input o the unit. Yes, this is your PulseWidthModulator (PWM) The two center terminals read only the ships voltage input. That is what it will be, the two outer terminals go directly to the motor itself and those are the variable output voltages. These are the voltages you adjust "IN" the mode you are trying to adjust. So, if you are adjusting motor speed for full auto run, you must be in full auto run mode. To adjust the FWF speeds you must be in the FWF mode to do so and measuring brine output with you TDS meter. This is where I'm guessing you didn't go correct?

Again, really appreciate your assistance. We did find the boost pressure sensor was inoperative and needs replacement. This is why I suggested to "Manually" check your boost pump to make sure it is operating.For those that have sensors inoperative on this watermaker, you can enter the dealer settings function, enter “admin, and password admin and disable the sensor to allow water to be made. Definitely good to know.

Uh, yes you can get into the systems program like that, but the best advice is to check first before changing or disabling the functions in the program. What you did is fine but there are a lot of other functions in the program that if played with can change other functions which can drive a tech nuts trying to straighten it out. Not saying you but this is for others that might be tempted to "Play around" in the systems program. This is from great experience in straightening out these programming changes.

Just another reminder, We hold three-day Spectra classes in my Ft.Lauderdale shop 4-5 times a year. After this class you'll be able to strip your entire unit down, identify every part, it's function, and its proper installation on the unit. You'll be able to self-diagnose 99% of any problem and know how to fix it. I say 99% because there's always that 1% head scratcher.