Usually this is where I recommend I finally come out to a customers boat
because it might be a simple fix or it is something a bit more complicated that the customer would have a hard time fixing himself or something simply overlooked. It's hard sometimes to diagnose over the Internet
. Personally, and I never say never because it always bits me in the backside, I still think it's a simple adjustment and I would cringe at buying
a new board at this point. But that being said, do not mothball this watermaker over this problem, it is relatively minor and shutting it down is worse. But here's another way to approach this problem for now. I recommend this to all my customers (regardless of watermaker brand)that you first route
your product tube to underneath your galley
sink. Attach the product tube to the input of a 3/way valve and route
one output to a "J" tube faucet fixture on the sink and the other output back to your water
tank">fresh water tank. Ths way when you run your watrmaker you can divert the product water to your galley
sink and test it right there (Taste testing is easy, a TDS meter is a bit better) When you are happy with the product water you can then divert it via the 3/way valve to your tank. Your Spectra is designed for simple bypass solutions when something goes wrong like no other watermaker on the market. Many of these solutions are in the manual that usually collects a lot of dust. If everything else is working except the salinity probe and spending money
on replacing a board + labor is not what you want to do then do the plumbing
mentioned above. You can easily bypass the salinity probe on your unit at the control panel and test the water at the galley sink. Another advantage to this set up is ease of filling water bottles for the fridge and cooking
water that doesn't have to go through further filtering after being dumped into your tank.
The major advantage of any electronically controlled watermaker is the automatic freshwater flush feature. This allows you to leave the boat
for an extended period of time without pickling the system before you go. I assume your "AUTO STORE" is still working fine. If we bypass the salinity probe electronically then your system will work like it always does with all the other features as well. Even if you took a lightening strike and wiped out the electronics
this system can easily be run manually after that.
What at this point would help a lot, besides a round trip ticket to the UK, would be a few pictures. Open the control board box (should be located on top of the feed pump
module in a white box about 10" X 4" X 2" It will have the "RUN MANUAL" "AUTO RUN" toggle switch mounted on it. Four screws hold it down) and take a complete clear picture of the control board. (Not the control panel) Also a picture of the salinity probe where it is threaded into the watermaker. I'd like to make sure visually we are working with all the right components.