some basic thruhull questions from survey. New boat owner

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by nimbex1970

I appreciate your time. I know the hull is solid, as we had a good surveyor and it is fine. Thank you for the feedback.

If I may trouble you for one more question, should we just replace them all, or wait for next year haul out and paint? I know I will get advice from the yard, I am looking for knowledge to base that decision on. Thank you again.

IMNSHO, if you want the best option for peace of mind at sea. I dont think you can go past set of properly installed-
Backing plates, with studs,
Flange Groco bronze valves.

This is definitely not the quickest, easiest or cheapest route.

You can make the backing plates or buy them from Dreamgreen, Defender, others. When epoxied in they really reinforce the hull mounting area. Mainsail has an excellent article he has written about this-
https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

I reckon this is arguably pretty much the Gold standard.

The flange Groco valves, can be replaced seperately to the thru hulls. They can and should be regularly greased so they will continue to work.

It is also a good idea to have a stash of wooden bungs, or Seabungs that can be quickly found and used if needed. Some people place tie them near the seacocks so they can find and use them quick, if it comes to it.

[Copacabana]

Originally Posted by Q Xopa

IMNSHO, if you want the best option for peace of mind at sea. I dont think you can go past set of properly installed-
Backing plates, with studs,
Flange Groco bronze valves.

This is definitely not the quickest, easiest or cheapest route.

You can make the backing plates or buy them from Dreamgreen, Defender, others. When epoxied in they really reinforce the hull mounting area. Mainsail has an excellent article he has written about this-
https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

I reckon this is arguably pretty much the Gold standard.

The flange Groco valves, can be replaced seperately to the thru hulls. They can and should be regularly greased so they will continue to work.

It is also a good idea to have a stash of wooden bungs, or Seabungs that can be quickly found and used if needed. Some people place tie them near the seacocks so they can find and use them quick, if it comes to it.

+1 for following MainSail's excellent advice on installing seacocks.

Since you'll have the tools out, you might as well replace all of them and sleep better at night. Any hole in the hull should be a priority on the "to do" list.

I'm not certain why you don't want to tackle the job yourself, but if it's just lack of confidence, why not hire someone to do the first one with you and then do the others yourself. It's not hard to do. I would follow MainSail's steps to a "T" and you can forget about your seacocks for many years (aside from regular inspections and greasing the ball valves on haulouts).

[Copacabana]

This other article by MainSail gives you an alternative method for the backing plates, which I think is even better as it means no bolt holes through the hull.

https://pbase.com/mainecruising/backing_blocks

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by nimbex1970

3. WHY are there so many holes?? It seems excessive, but thats from me, that knows very little, except that there are many to monitor.

How many of those are below the waterline, and how many above?

You'll need to know what each thru-hull does (main engine inlet, A/C raw water inlet, A/C discharge, galley sink drain, etc.), but in the meantime you could maybe focus on those that are below the waterline...

And then you'll need to know what the surveyor meant when he said some are loose. Often a below waterline thru-hull is glassed to the hull, secured with a nut inside and 3 bonding screws... and then maybe topped with a ball valve. If your surveyor means the ball valve (for example) is loose, tighten it (of course)... but that doesn't mean the thru-hull itself is loose.

You could ask your surveyor to explain; he's your employee.

Postscript: You could also learn more about what thru-hulls look like, and how they work, by perusing the Groco and Buck Algonquin websites. I'd assume Hunter used Buck Algonquin parts.

-Chris

[Ivanvet]

Hi,
You've got a lot of great answers so far and I don't have anything to contribute when it comes to your next course of action.
Regarding your question about 'why so many thru-hulls?'. I had the very same question when I got my boat and one of the first projects (in theory) I had in my mind was to reduce the number of holes and perhaps combining them in what it is called a 'sea chest'. This is a great concept where you have only a relatively big hole coming into the boat, and from there, multiple ports are distributed to wherever it is needed. Then, reality struck, and I realized that the problem with the sea chest (at least in my production boat) is that there is no space to run all the hoses throughout the boat, so I abandoned that idea...and focused on other projects.

Good luck with replacing the seacocks.

Ivan

[nimbex1970]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Highly unlikely that you have Marelon throughulls and bronze seacocks. Suggest you talk to your surveyor and find out exactly what what you have what what he recommends regarding "tightening".

I have no knowledge to determine why this would be unlikely, however that is what the survey report shows. Ball typed valve bronze with marelon.

Thanks all, we are calling the surveyor to clarify. I appreciate the sites to learn more. I should clarify, that husband just had rotator cuff and tendon surgery on his dominant arm on friday. So any do it yourself would fall on my hands, literally. So do it yourself is out for now.

[Kalinowski]

You haven't mentioned the age of the boat. If the boat's hauled, the worker is hired, and some thru hulls need to be dealt with, why not just replace them all while you're at it. This will give you peace of mind.

[stormalong]

Nimbex1970 You say you cannot do these yourself. If you are just getting started in sailing this is a pretty simple starter project. If the throughhulls are Marelon they should be fairly easy to turn out. Depending on age they could just be rebedded with new backing plates if needed.

How old is the boat?

Can you post some pictures of the seacocks in question so that the many experts here can advise you properly?

There are different ways that these have been installed over the years. Some of the Marelon seacocks are just ball valves while others are proper flanged seacocks. A picture is truly worth a million words. If there is no water leakage take some time to decide your plan of action before rushing to haul out.

[TrentePieds]

Nimbex:

Quote: “husband just had rotator cuff and tendon surgery...”

Ah, Nimbex — That puts a different complexion on things :-)!

Please know that we are here to help, and if some of us may sound a bit gruff at times, that is only to get the point across. I was shaking my head and going: “Wot??? EVERYBODY lad knows the answer to that!” But then — you are not a lad, so you are permitted not to know :-)

But let's starts with something really basic: LOOSE THROUGH-HULLS SINK BOATS!

If they really ARE loose, snug up the retaining nuts. If they weep a little after that, your bilge pump(s) should take care of draining the bilge of the intruding water until you can get the boat out of the water to do a PROPER repair.

To “snug up” means to make something tighter than it is. It is a phrase used in many situations . You can “snug up” a nut on a bolt, or a retainer nut on a through-hull. You can “snug up” a jib sheet that is too loose. You get the idea.

Marlon is a type of plastic. It is impervious to seawater and has many other luvverly attributes, among them that it is very tough. It is therefore often used for valves in yachts. However, using a Marlon through-hull (“nipple” so to speak) with a bronze valve screwed onto it is considered very bad form. There are good reasons for that, but it needn't concern you in your present situation. If your through-hulls and valves are individually sound there is no need to take action just now. Changing bits'n'pieces so they are the same material is really expensive and will gain you nothing at this time.

There are two kinds of valves. One works by a sliding plate blocking the flow of water. That kind can be weak and unreliable and break in the open position when you need to shut it, so we don't permit those in boats. The other kind has a ball inside with a hole in it. Turning the ball so the hole is cross-wise in the body stops the flow. Those things never break (tho' they can seize). That kind is the one we ALWAYS want to use in boats.

As for the number of holes: There are different hulls all sold as “Hunter Legend”. Judging by your diagram, your's is the 33.5 version. Your diagram matches the cabing layout of the 33.5.

The through-hull marked TD is a device that generates a signal to operate your instruments. It is essential and is not subject to having to be opened and closed every time you go sailing. The one marked PG is a gizmo that stops water coming in along the propeller shaft. Again it's a device that needn't be opened and closed every time you go sailing. The one marked “SC” just adjacent to the “PG” is the cooling water intake for the engine. It will need to be opened before you start the engine and be closed when you finish with it, so it should be easily accessible so you don't need to clamber inside the furniture to get at it.

The two read ones marked “SC” will be the drains for the galley sink and the icebox. Moving forward the “SC” just next to the “TD” will be the intake for seawater to flush your heads, and the “SC” on the starboard side (right side looking forward) will be the overboard discharge for the toilet or its holding tank.

That leaves the two “SC”s on the port side midships. They could very well be required for a water maker or some such.

So there you have an explanation of why there are so many. It is NOT unsual that there are so many, and you mustn't worry about it. All that is required is that you develop a habit of verifying that they are ALL closed before you leave the boat, and of opening only the ones you need to open for only as long as you need them open. Just normal ship-board routine.

It's unlikely that the through-hull fittings and the associated sea-cocks are giving you trouble. It is far more likely that the troube will come, if it comes, from the way the hoses are attached to the sea cocks. Once you are on the hard, take a picture of EACH through-hull, sea cock, and hose attachment combination and send them along and we can be far more help to you.

All the best

TrentePieds

[nimbex1970]

Thank you all again for excellent advice. We are hauling her out today, I will take pictures and learn how to DIY!