Shurflo water pump and accumulator issue in Bavaria

[Caddy Shack]

Hello. I have a Shurflo 2095 water pump in my 2002 Bavaria 36. There is also a small accumulator next to it. The pump cycles rapidly and occasionally comes on for a second when I am not using water. I do not believe I have a water leak anywhere (cannot find a trace).

I have turned the adjustment screw to increase the shut off pressure about 1.5 turns (max stated in a generic Surflo manual I found online). It still seems to cycle too fast.

1) Can I turn it more?
2) The accumlator does not appear to have any water in it but it is hard to tell looking at it. Do these fail or need some type of adjustment?

Thanks for your help

[Bowdrie]

I can't read German, but I saw the word "boiler".
I assume that is an expansion tank for a water heater, not an "accumulator" tank for a water system.
As an expansion tank it very well might not have a membrane in it, and if installed on the hot water outlet side of the circuit it has no operational value as an accumulator.

[Caddy Shack]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

I can't read German, but I saw the word "boiler".
I assume that is an expansion tank for a water heater, not an "accumulator" tank for a water system.
As an expansion tank it very well might not have a membrane in it, and if installed on the hot water outlet side of the circuit it has no operational value as an accumulator.

It is on the outlet side of the water pump, right next to it. I unscrewed the reservoir, and it had some water in it. It is just an empty bottle - not sure what is going on inside (if anything) at the junction itself. The pump does cycle as soon as I turn a tap on, so I don't think it is working as an accumulator.

Translation:

Pressure accumulator

for even water flow in pressurized water systems.

Installation between pump and faucet.

Absolutely necessary for use between pump and boiler.

Caution:
Install T-connection facing downwards.
--

[Windpilot]

Just my own experience here.
1st you need to be 100% sure of no leaks anywhere. Make sure it's not hot water in the Boiler cooling down which will trip it.
I would then suspect the pump itself having debris in it causing "backflow" pressure loss. Take it apart, look and clean if, I found stuff 1x and fixed the problem.
I've never taken my accumulater tank apart. It's supposed to have a bladder in it, I've added air a few times over the years is all, it should have nothing to do with the pressure loss.
Also I wouldn't think that the pressure setting should need adjusting.

[Bowdrie]

I do see where it says, "max pressure 3 bars @ 20C".
So, that's ~42psi, what's the operating range of the system, (cut-in/cut-out)?
Yes, the air pressure charge in an accumulator does have to be adjusted to fit the operating range of the pump for best service.
The factory charge is not a one-size-fits-all.

[Fredrikx]

Hi,

The pump itself act as a non return valve. If there are no leaks elsewhere, it can be a worn valve in the pump head or dirt that passed the filter (you should have a mesh filter at the intake of the pump).

[donradcliffe]

I have a similar Shurflo 4008 pump in my RV. Exact same symptoms, and the leak was in the valves in the pump. Bought a new pump and they went away. I also rebuilt the old pump with new valves as a spare.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Caddy Shack

Hello. I have a Shurflo 2095 water pump in my 2002 Bavaria 36. There is also a small accumulator next to it. The pump cycles rapidly and occasionally comes on for a second when I am not using water. I do not believe I have a water leak anywhere (cannot find a trace).

I have turned the adjustment screw to increase the shut off pressure about 1.5 turns (max stated in a generic Surflo manual I found online). It still seems to cycle too fast.

1) Can I turn it more?
2) The accumlator does not appear to have any water in it but it is hard to tell looking at it. Do these fail or need some type of adjustment?

The adjustment is about matching air pressure in the accumulator to the water pump's ON and OFF pressures. See if you can translate "turns" into how much PSI remains in the accumulator at the pump's ON pressure.

There's usually an air bladder inside the accumulator housing. If that has developed a leak (and they do), you'll want to replace the bladder if it's serviceable, or the whole accumulator.

The pump cycling rapidly suggests there's not much space between your accumulator's high and low pressure; could be because of a leak, or because of your settings, or perhaps even the accumulator isn't correctly sized for the pump. (Or valves in the pump, as Don said.)

The occasional bursts of pump when you're not using water could be a symptom of a bladder leak... or a leak elsewhere in your system.

-Chris

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Caddy Shack

I have a Shurflo 2095 water pump

"Shurflo 2095" is like saying "Ford engine", it denotes nothing regarding the vehicle the engine is hooked up to.
The "2095" is offered in several variations, all of which have different flow rates, different pressures, and different pressure switch ranges.
Without knowing the model, (two groups of three more digits,) the pressure range is unknown, and the proper setting for the air charge pressure in the accumulator tank cannot be established.
From the literature the actual cut-in/cut-out pressures need to be known and what does "1-1/2 turns" of the switch actually do, 2psi, 10psi, 15psi?
My recommendation? When you know the actual cut-in/cut-out settings of the switch:
1, Turn the pump off.
2, Return that screw back to its original setting.
3, With pump off open a faucet and drain the system to zero pressure.
4, Pressurize the accumulator to ~2psi less than the cut-in pressure.
5, turn the pump back on and see if things are better.

[Fredrikx]

I order to find the culprit between the pump itself or a leak in the bladder of the tank, I would try to deflate the tank completely and see what happens. If, when the bladder is completely with zero air pressure, the pump continue to randomly turn on, that means that the problem comes from the pump itself (worn valves or dirt in head pump). Else, it means that the bladder of the tank is leaking.

[gonesail]

even without an accumulator it should not cycle .. at rest.

[Haddock1]

I had the same issue on my Bavaria, hunted high and low for a pesky leak. About to give up then checked the deck shower. Hey presto, small drip, tighten it all up no more pump going off. Assume you have checked this?

[OneBoatman]

My thought is that you shouldn't be adjusting it obtain higher pressure cut out unless you feel you don't have sufficient flow at the points furthest from the pump. The weak point of the fresh water systems I've serviced or worked on has rarely been the pump, but rather the pressure switch. However, pulsing needn't be indicative of a leak. A new pressure switch can be purchased separately from most manufacturers, but they cost about 50% of the price of a new pump which typically includes a pressure switch and sometimes a gross particulate pre-filter. Most will opt to replace all at that price. These are supposed to allow voltage to pass to the pump until the high pressure limit is reached and then cut power to the pump. Normally, there isn't any valve other that those at each point of use. The pumps themselves being built as both self-priming and run dry. I've come to think it is the sensing of low pressure as the problem. Cut in being typically 15 psi and only 0.3 psi above one atmosphere at sea level. If the switch is pulsing in the absence of any leaks it is beginning to fail. At first it is but a notice that there could be a leak and a reminder the breaker is on when there is no demand. Until it fails. The captain's response is always the same: first a search for a leak and then to open the breaker until water is needed. Eventually it will fail altogether and need replacement. I'm guessing the tank you describe is but a secondary fine filter.

[The Captain]

The accumulator looks like it could be 100% full of water, not air. Unscrew it and empty it. That's what I have to do annually on my Bavaria 36 2005.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by The Captain

The accumulator looks like it could be 100% full of water, not air. Unscrew it and empty it. That's what I have to do annually on my Bavaria 36 2005.

A proper accumulator tank will have a membrane separating the water from the air and unless the membrane is faulty there will never be water come out of the Schrader valve.
You shouldn't have to unscrew anything to drain a properly mounted and operating tank.
You simply turn off the pump and open a faucet, the air charge will force all the water out of the tank.