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07-12-2007, 11:10
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boat in Panama
Boat: Vandestadt ketch 42
Posts: 357
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seacock/Thru hull problem
My ongoing refit took in the head and unfortunately one of my helpers broke the seacock for the hand basin drainage at the thru hull a few days ago. The seacock/thru hull unit is/was a forespar (RC Marine) plastic /bakalite unit.
I have yet to visit the boat since the accident. However via conversations on the phone.... I asked him to work the thru hull still in hull (Steel Boat) out, without stripping the thread.
This is being done in Spanish so the information I now give maybe is inaccurate, however as I shall be at the boat tomorrow and the only information two Venezuelan can give me between apologies is to seal it permanently (Which is unacceptable to me) is to ask your advice.
Your suggestions as to it removal (simple or otherwise whereby its seat isn't damaged. Equally those who have experienced the same problem and their knowledge of what not to do would be gratefully received.
Thanks in anticipation
Alan
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07-12-2007, 11:32
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Southern California
Boat: Was - Passport 45 Ketch
Posts: 888
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I'd grind it off flush with the hull from the inside, then punch or chisel it out (I'm assuming that the boat is out of the water).
Heck, if it's plastic, you should be able to melt it out.
I have a feeling I'm missing something here.......are you trying to salvage the thru-hull??
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09-12-2007, 03:19
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Back in Northern California working on the Ranch
Boat: Pearson 365 Sloop and 9' Fatty Knees.
Posts: 10,488
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Did the thru-hull break or the valve? Is the boat hulled out?
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: Wow - what a ride!"
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09-12-2007, 04:40
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 9,398
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Our steel boat didn't have through hulls. There were lengths of threaded pipe welded into the hull, and the seacocks were screwed onto these.
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09-12-2007, 10:44
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Back in Northern California working on the Ranch
Boat: Pearson 365 Sloop and 9' Fatty Knees.
Posts: 10,488
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I'm thinking this boat may have steel welded threaded stems too but the explanation above is a little vague.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: Wow - what a ride!"
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18-12-2007, 18:02
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boat in Panama
Boat: Vandestadt ketch 42
Posts: 357
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Sorry for the initial vague post, I have now had the chance to view the problem and celestialsailor and 44cruisingcat have it spot on. The seacock broke at the top of the stem. I am having a welder look at the problem and suggest the best solution. Through my inexperienced eyes, it looks as if the stem will have to the cut and ground and a new stem welded.
My next question therefore must be...what possible problems could occur, which I should be aware off? The welder has done some work for me in the past to my satisfaction.... However this could pose some unthinkable, but sinkable results if not properly executed. Am I being paranoid and in effect its a simple undertaking or should I ensure that certain procedures are followed. Anyone face a similar situation? As always your help will be very welcome
Alan
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22-12-2007, 22:59
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Back in Northern California working on the Ranch
Boat: Pearson 365 Sloop and 9' Fatty Knees.
Posts: 10,488
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Is the boat in the water? You keep saying stem. Not really a boat term in the way you are using it. Can you take a digital picture and post? To me, it sounds like the handle on the plastic RC valve broke. If so. that has nothing to do with the actual thru-hull, of which I am still in the dark if it is welded to the hull or not. Is it used above or below the waterline?
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: Wow - what a ride!"
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07-01-2008, 11:56
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boat in Panama
Boat: Vandestadt ketch 42
Posts: 357
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Sorry for the delay in replying to your suggestions. I believe that the problem has now been sorted. A new threaded pipe has been welded into place and new plastic seacock attached. My refit should progress whereby the boat enters the water at the beginning of Feb.
I am confident a good job has been achieved, however I shall have a group of people with strong arms and buckets on standby just in case and have the lift stop lowering for a physical check before, being fully satisfied.
Again my thanks
Alan
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07-01-2008, 14:25
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 976
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Hi Alan,
any reason why you didnt go for a SS seacock ? Much discusion on this on the Metal boat Society web site....
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08-01-2008, 10:24
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boat in Panama
Boat: Vandestadt ketch 42
Posts: 357
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Dear Cooper,
Venezuela has many benefits to offer, however the easy access to boating necessities taken for granted in Europe, US and down under, is not one of them. Subsequently the best solutions are predicated on the availability of product and quality of expertise.
Therefore I was more concerned that a new threaded stem was welded correctly and the size corresponded to a Bakalite seacock available here. It looks okay although I shall monitor it religiously.
Regards
Alan
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08-01-2008, 13:42
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#12
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 51,775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anglooff
... a Bakalite seacock ...Alan
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Say it ain't so Alan. I'm nearly certain you mean bakelite to represent a generic term for a plastic resin - hopefully Marelon.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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08-01-2008, 13:59
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 976
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Hi Alan,
it dosnt have to be "Marine" A reasonable quality SS ball valve with a nylon seat works well. (And you will stub your toe on it not break it off !!)
cheers
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