Seacock question

[Laskadog]

Hi,

We just bought a new (to me) boat and will be replacing the waste system (tank, y-valves, macerator etc) with a composting toilet. In order to remove everything, I have to shut off the discharge seacock. However, when I go to turn the handle it comes in contact with it's self and I can't close it. (see pic attached)

I think I could remove the pin and turn in the other direction to close it off, but access is a little difficult. I might be able to rotate it if I removed the hose, but then I will sink the boat! I can't understand how the PO could install a seacock in such a way it couldn't be closed.

Is it possible that although the handle is vertical, the seacock is already closed? But then how did the PO open it. Am I missing something? As an additional clue, I tried running the macerator today and it just spun and came to a halt, leading me to think that the seacock is closed and the macerator can't pump out. But the handle is vertical?!

Part B to the question: Assuming I actually close the seacock, I'd block off the pipe as a secondary precaution until I can haul out and physically remove the through hull and glass over the hole. What would you recommend I use to terminate the 1.5" hose ?

Thanks.

P.S.: It is entirely possible the PO had no idea what he was doing. The air vent for the waste tank goes so low into the boat that it entirely fills with waste water before going above the waterline. The whole system is quite recent.

[barnakiel]

The handle can be removed, then the seacock can be closed, likely with the same handle now placed at 90degs to its ex position. If not fitting, use a small French wrench (monkey).


A closed SECURED (one can simply remove the handle - so that some jocker does not turn it ON one day ...) and tight seacock does not need any extra plug. BUT ... in my boat where I removed any and wanted to add 'a layer of security' I simply made small bungs from dense eva foam and fitted them in place with quick epoxy.


b.

[Laskadog]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

The handle can be removed, then the seacock can be closed, likely with the same handle now placed at 90degs to its ex position. If not fitting, use a small French wrench (monkey).

Thanks barnakiel,

Today I'll try moving the pin so that I can move the handle counter-clockwise. If I can't, I'll try taking off the handle and re-installing it 90 degrees, which is probably its proper position.

[Manateeman]

Hi. I’d be very careful with this valve. Please take a look at flanged seacocks...the design is very different from your thru hull / valve. Please read posts on seacocks.
I’d also search the boat for any other thru hull / valve combinations and remove them and replace them with flanged seacocks or Groco adaptors. I’d avoid Marelon...again read up on the subject.
Please do not force anything. The thruhull could be in bad condition. I’ve also seen failures at the junction of the thru hull to valve because of thread mismatch.
Please read up on this subject.
Regards, Mark the manatee.

[rslifkin]

The valve shown is definitely not a proper seacock. Just a ball valve screwed onto a skin fitting. So I'd plan to re-do the whole thing with a new thru hull and a proper seacock unless you're going to just remove it all permanently.

[Laskadog]

Thanks for the advice Mark,

Given the age of the seacock, I really didn’t want to force anything in fear of braking something. That’s also why I want a backup once I disconnect the hose. This morning I removed the handle and used a monkey wrench to open the seacock. It took little force thank goodness. I closed it and put the handle back on. So in the end, vertical meant closed. Weird!
I plan on removing this seacock and glassing it over. One less hole in the boat! I’ll check all the remaining seacocks carefully.

Cheers