Sea Cock Won't Open or Close

[CSY Man]

Regardless of position, water trickles out..Kind of weird.

This is the model:


Tried to remove the handle and rotate the axle 360 degrees...No change, it trickles out a little less than a dog peeing constantly, not enough to flush the head properly when pumping.
Now in the process of removing the 90 degree barb connector so I can try to stick something down there and feel for an obstruction and or to see if the ball is moving at all..

Went to Groco's page to look for an "exploded" diagram of the sea cock to see if there is a way the axle could have disconnected from the ball, but no such thing.
Has anybody taken one apart?

[CSY Man]

Will answer my own question:

A factory rep called me after I sent 'em an email:
The model above is subject to recall as the Chinese used inferior metals for the shaft and other hardware. Croco will send me a new seacock, the question is now if they will pay for the haulout...

If you got a similar one, check it out and call the factory.

[zeehag]

they caan be replaced in the water by use of a good diver. btdt.

[Ocean Girl]

Man oh man, will say a prayer for it till ya do haul out. Nothin more ominous that a seacock that won't behave, and stop fiddling with it! ( that was mother hen clucking). Do you have high water alarm, sorry CSY, I'm sure you are at the ready. Just seen too many of these bad boys look like they won't do anything radical then suddenly allow a large volum of water in with just a tap.
Glad you posted this, rebuilding all our seacocks was next on Rain Dogs list, then I got sick. Now that I'm on the mend, time to take apart some seacocks. You scared me straight.
Cheers,
Ocean Girl

[oslokid]

I just replaced sea valves and thru-hull on engine intake and shaft cooling intake on a 2005 production boat while on a haul/hang/launch last week. The valves looked OK on the outside (minor green fuzz) and slight pink hue when brushed but upon removing (gently) the hoses the metal inside snapped off the valve like toothpicks. We are talking catastrophic failure of a critical part. In the process of removing the valve, the seal on the thru-hull was compromised requiring a re-set. All went well but in hindsight I underestimated the amount of time and effort this simple task took. My advice is if you haven't already, move this to-do way up on your list if you suspect your valves, thru-hulls or sea-cocks.

[Blue Stocking]

Originally Posted by zeehag

they caan be replaced in the water by use of a good diver. btdt.

If the replacement is the same size, and you have 3 bronze bolts firmly anchored in the hull, like Zee says, it can be done with the boat wet.

[CSY Man]

Nothin more ominous that a seacock that won't behave, and stop fiddling with it! ( that was mother hen clucking). Do you have high water alarm, sorry CSY,

Nah, no high water alarm, but 2 automatic pumps on different circuits with different plumbing, she won't sink even with a half-azz open seacock...I think.

If the replacement is the same size, and you have 3 bronze bolts firmly anchored in the hull, like Zee says, it can be done with the boat wet.

Yup, but due for a haul out anyways, got 4 years on the bottom paint and that is plenty...Thanks to Trinidad Pro, good stuff, no barnacles..

[David M]

Originally Posted by CSY Man

Will answer my own question:

A factory rep called me after I sent 'em an email:
The model above is subject to recall as the Chinese used inferior metals for the shaft and other hardware. Croco will send me a new seacock, the question is now if they will pay for the haulout...

If you got a similar one, check it out and call the factory.

That does not surprise me. Metal products from China are always suspect. I don't know if they are cutting corners all too often or they don't understand metalurgy...or both.

[colortec]

Originally Posted by Blue Stocking

If the replacement is the same size, and you have 3 bronze bolts firmly anchored in the hull, like Zee says, it can be done with the boat wet.

In my RR 41 it,s the same problems, with Sea cock, who not are possible to close, as ia are afraid to broke the sea cock, if use to much "power ".
Have you any idea,s how to fix the propeller shaft ( to tight ) stuffing box, on this boat.
I have the same RHODES RELIANT 41 in Malaysia.

Pls. send me same idea,s,if yo know.

Regards
Hans

[chrisjs]

Suggest you close off this seacock completely if you can live without it until you haul. Just cap it with a threaded end cap. If you cannot live without it perhaps you can plumb a secondary valve onto the original seacock until a proper replacement is installed. Both suggestions assume the "structure" of the seacock is "sound" and it is only the functional mechanism that is shot.
Chris

[redsky49]

Equally as disturbing, is that Groco, a US company, is now outsourcing component manufacture offshore. I had always thought this was one of the last bronze foundries still located here.

For US residents, outsourcing too often results in poorer products, accompanied by even less technical support. Not necessarily bashing China, but products that are locally manufactured seem to be far more responsive (and reliable) to consumer needs/requirements.

Sad to see, though I believe that Spartan Marine still produces their product line in Maine.

[Ocean Girl]

Or Marelon is another option

[Jon Neely]

That's terrible to hear. I just replaced all of the thru hulls and seacocks with grocos at the beginning of the year thinking I was buying US. I hope I don't encounter any issues seeing I spent a small fortune on all new hardware.

[Watercolor]

The Groco model you pictured is one Groco gets from China. Chinese metal parts are really third rate. You really have no way of knowing the quality of the metals used to make up the "bronze" or "stainless" that goes into the seacock. My guess is that the SS ball has corroded and slipped and jammed the bronze key.

There are two companies who make only US made, high quality seacocks that I know of. They are Perko (ball valve) and Spartan (tapered cone).

Perko uses a glass-filled acetal ball, a high impact and water resistant material, well suited for marine use.

Someone mentioned replacing a seacock in the water. Yes, it can be done. If you're in dire straights, fine. However, if the seacock failed because of corrosion, I'd do some serious checking of the thru-hull and bolts if there are any. And then do some serious thinking about using them. If you have corrosion in the sseacock, you might have corrosion elsewhere.

Yes, the Groco has a problem with metals, but your real problem may be stray current either from your boat of the marina you keep it at.

The sad thing is that most people never check their seacocks. One time I asked a couple boaters if they ever pulled the hoses and checked their seacocks. On guy said, he didn't. He only checked them when he had a problem. I simply didn't know how to respond.

With regard to Marelon, plastics don't corrode. they degrade. You can't see the degradation necessarily. The question with Marrelon (Dupont Zytel 13% glass loaded nylon) and any other plastic thru-hull fitting is how much degradation are you willing to accept?

[Ocean Girl]

That's is a good question about Marelon. How fast do they degrade? I'm a Spartan gal myself they are as beautiful as advertised.
Ocean Girl