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Old 29-08-2022, 22:36   #31
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Re: Sanity check - cutting throughul for a new valve

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Coulda been just lucky, it happens a lot. Ask him how the rest of his thru hulls look.
Actually not too bad. I was very surprised by the amount of effort and the strength of the 3/4 thruhull i had to cut. Despite its suspect appearance on the outside (some corrosion), i really put a wrench on it and it didn't break. The cut showed that the metal was still full thickness, strong, good color and if it wasn't fore the broken valve handle, it would have been just fine for many more years to come.

Just for the sake of full disclosure - the handle broke not because the valve and handle were terrible corroded, but because the valve was not exercised or lubricated by the PO. For me it was always really hard to move and one day it just froze and wouldn't budge. I've putt too much force and broke the handle pin, since it was the weakest point.
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Old 29-08-2022, 22:52   #32
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Re: Sanity check - cutting throughul for a new valve

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Originally Posted by George_SD View Post
Actually not too bad. I was very surprised by the amount of effort and the strength of the 3/4 thruhull i had to cut. Despite its suspect appearance on the outside (some corrosion), i really put a wrench on it and it didn't break. The cut showed that the metal was still full thickness, strong, good color and if it wasn't fore the broken valve handle, it would have been just fine for many more years to come.

Just for the sake of full disclosure - the handle broke not because the valve and handle were terrible corroded, but because the valve was not exercised or lubricated by the PO. For me it was always really hard to move and one day it just froze and wouldn't budge. I've putt too much force and broke the handle pin, since it was the weakest point.
So you have BSP thread with an O-ring on the valve?
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Old 30-08-2022, 09:30   #33
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Re: Sanity check - cutting throughul for a new valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by George_SD View Post
Actually not too bad. I was very surprised by the amount of effort and the strength of the 3/4 thruhull i had to cut. Despite its suspect appearance on the outside (some corrosion), i really put a wrench on it and it didn't break. The cut showed that the metal was still full thickness, strong, good color and if it wasn't fore the broken valve handle, it would have been just fine for many more years to come.

Just for the sake of full disclosure - the handle broke not because the valve and handle were terrible corroded, but because the valve was not exercised or lubricated by the PO. For me it was always really hard to move and one day it just froze and wouldn't budge. I've putt too much force and broke the handle pin, since it was the weakest point.

Great! Glad it was an easy fix.
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Old 30-08-2022, 09:38   #34
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Re: Sanity check - cutting throughul for a new valve

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So you have BSP thread with an O-ring on the valve?
No, I believe it is an NPT. I got the valve from the West Marine. No O-ring, but I do use threat sealant to further prevent leaks.
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Old 30-08-2022, 12:20   #35
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Re: Sanity check - cutting throughul for a new valve

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No, I believe it is an NPT. I got the valve from the West Marine. No O-ring, but I do use threat sealant to further prevent leaks.
Hmmm. The fitting is either BSPP (when you believe the crowd on CF) or it is NPS thread. Either is a straight or parallel thread and incompatible with a NPT valve.

For emergency it’s okay when you made it work, but you really need to replace it next haul out.

A new Groco fitting has combination thread which is NPS where the nut goes and NPT where the valve screws on. You can’t cut these down to fit because that removes the NPT compatible end.
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Old 30-08-2022, 13:18   #36
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Re: Sanity check - cutting throughul for a new valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by George_SD View Post
Actually not too bad. I was very surprised by the amount of effort and the strength of the 3/4 thruhull i had to cut. Despite its suspect appearance on the outside (some corrosion), i really put a wrench on it and it didn't break. The cut showed that the metal was still full thickness, strong, good color and if it wasn't fore the broken valve handle, it would have been just fine for many more years to come.

Just for the sake of full disclosure - the handle broke not because the valve and handle were terrible corroded, but because the valve was not exercised or lubricated by the PO. For me it was always really hard to move and one day it just froze and wouldn't budge. I've putt too much force and broke the handle pin, since it was the weakest point.
Sadly this is the case and then the fittings is blamed on dezincifivstion , and al, that BS. Ball valves have a weakness in that shaft is comparatively small and can simply be sheered out of subject to too much force.
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