raw water pump uses different elbows intentional?

[er9]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

What is wrong with them, why do you think they need replacing?

You said a local plumbing shop squared you away, Very unlikely their parts are bronze parts and you do NOT want brass, you need bronze.

Lastly it’s very common and a good idea for the intake to be larger then the exit, that’s to ensure that the pump never has to pull much vacuum, if it does then it can cavitate and it will look like you have air in the output line.
That’s also why it’s the same way on the strainer.

no i think that was another poster.


ok great to know. i wont mess with the way its setup then.



fittings are just dinged up, dents in the hose side connection, mashed threads, dinged threads. i figured since i have it all out of the boat and in pieces it would be a good time to replace them. i did break one fitting. you can see what they looked like and why i wanted to just replace them all. luckily groco still sells this one.



i tell you im really becoming a barnacle buster convert. i know its not the only product that descales but im realizing how important it is to make sure the entire raw water system gets descaled, not just the heat exchanger side. i always was diligent about cleaning my strainer but after taking it off and disassembling it all, the buildup in the connections and inside the top bronze portion of the strainer thats not visable was shocking.


eventually i did end up cleaning all the parts after soaking them in barnacle buster for a few hours. the fittings cleaned up nicely. i love bronze. im going to look into the fittings according to the info Brewgyver suggested and if i can find them save the older ones as backups i guess.

[er9]

Originally Posted by Coolerking

If you cant figure this out then take the fitting to a marine hardware store and see exactly what you have.
I work with many different raw water pumps, and most of them below 2hp have larger inlets than outlets.
1.25 x 1 .....1.50 x 1.25...1.00 x .75 all are very common.
I use FF silicone bronze fittings to upsize it all...keeps things flowing smooth.
White brass is dangerous.

much thanks. yes im very aware of the dangers of brass. i will be relocating the strainer slightly above waterline though and the water pump">raw water pump is also slightly above the waterline but i still will avoid brass at all costs.

[Coolerking]

Unless the pump is a self priming type, you absolutely need it below the water line.
Ideally the thru hull is below the inlet to the strainer, which in turn is below the pump inlet and then you allow the outlet hose to rise vertically as far as possible.
I make a living fixing this type of stuff, bleeding air, priming pumps, correcting basic plumbing mistakes.
If I had a dollar for everytime i got a call about an AC or refer system not working after a boat was hauled out.
Not kidding, at least a dozen a year.

Once you get the seawater circuit clean, you can keep the condensers on your ac system clean by putting the system into heat mode every few months, which you should do anyhow to keep the solenoid happy.

[er9]

Originally Posted by Coolerking

Unless the pump is a self priming type, you absolutely need it below the water line.
Ideally the thru hull is below the inlet to the strainer, which in turn is below the pump inlet and then you allow the outlet hose to rise vertically as far as possible.
I make a living fixing this type of stuff, bleeding air, priming pumps, correcting basic plumbing mistakes.
If I had a dollar for everytime i got a call about an AC or refer system not working after a boat was hauled out.
Not kidding, at least a dozen a year.

Once you get the seawater circuit clean, you can keep the condensers on your ac system clean by putting the system into heat mode every few months, which you should do anyhow to keep the solenoid happy.

once i install the new seacock it will no longer fit back in its old spot which was setup the way you described. there is a spot on the side wall that i may be able to fit it that would be below the waterline but it adds about 18" of hose from the thruhull to the strainer inlet. do you think that will be ok? it would be about another 18" run of hose from the outlet of the strainer to the water pump inlet. thats about what it was before.

[Statistical]

Originally Posted by er9

whats the disadvantage of putting it slightly above waterline? i dont have any AC system just raw water engine cooling.


once i install the new seacock it will no longer fit back in its old spot which was setup the way you described. there is a spot on the side wall that i may be able to fit it that would be below the waterline but it adds about 18" of hose from the thruhull to the strainer inlet. do you think that will be ok? it would be about another 18" run of hose from the outlet of the strainer to the water pump inlet. thats about what it was before.

If it is not self priming pump and you put it above the waterline then you will need a way to prime it.

If it is self priming then it can pull the vacuum required to flood its own inlet although as close to the waterline as possible is better.

From the photos it looks like a standard impeller pump? Those are self priming but I would verify.

[er9]

Originally Posted by Statistical

If it is not self priming pump and you put it above the waterline then you will need a way to prime it.

If it is self priming then it can pull the vacuum required to flood its own inlet although as close to the waterline as possible is better.

From the photos it looks like a standard impeller pump? Those are self priming but I would verify.

My raw water pump is an Oberdorfer impeller pump.


this one...https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ober...impeller-pumps


looks like its self priming. i do prime it every time i work on the raw water system and drain the pump.