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Luther · 11-06-2015, 09:27

I bought my boat in July last year and after much (mainly cosmetic) work I have now been living aboard for the last 2 months.
One of my Raritan PHII toilets is misbehaving.
When flushing, water rises but there is virtually nothing being pumped out though the pump action seems to be working correctly.
I bought the Raritan repair kit (PHRKIIC) which contains a total of about 20 different parts. My question is, do I need to change all the parts or can someone identify the problem and tell me which part(s)/valve(s) need replacement. The kits are not cheap so I would prefer to just change whatever is necessary and retain the rest for the future. Raritan's troubleshooting section doesn't refer to this specific problem. Any advice?

**sailorchic34** · 11-06-2015, 09:45

The joker valve, the inlet check valve flappy thingy and the big o ring for the plunger are the important bits. Don't for get to check that the hose from the head might be limed up till its blocked. Best to replace the hose from the head to the holding tank too.

leftbrainstuff · 11-06-2015, 09:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luther

I bought my boat in July last year and after much (mainly cosmetic) work I have now been living aboard for the last 2 months.
One of my Raritan PHII toilets is misbehaving.
When flushing, water rises but there is virtually nothing being pumped out though the pump action seems to be working correctly.
I bought the Raritan repair kit (PHRKIIC) which contains a total of about 20 different parts. My question is, do I need to change all the parts or can someone identify the problem and tell me which part(s)/valve(s) need replacement. The kits are not cheap so I would prefer to just change whatever is necessary and retain the rest for the future. Raritan's troubleshooting section doesn't refer to this specific problem. Any advice?

On the raritan its the joker valve and pump flap valve that tend to wear. If you find the bowl filling after flushing on dry then one or both of these valves are leaking.

The seal at the top of the plunger can also leak. When rebuilding replace the joker and flap valve and the orings. We use tek gel to lube on assembly. Check you dont have any wear on the piston, plunger or guides.

If its hard to pump and you havent installed anything incorrectly it may be blocked. We dont use anything but vinegar in our raritans but we enforce no paper or objects in the head.

You may have a blocked joker valve. Drop the 2 bolt flange outlet and check. We put vinegar in weekly overnight to dissolve the calcium carbonate deposits. Putting the repair kit in wont fix this. Check the outlet for blockage.

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Luther · 11-06-2015, 17:09

Many thanks, I will attack that job this weekend. Will also increase the number of spares I carry.

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Yeti · 11-06-2015, 17:26

I would also suggest taking it all apart cleaning it up and reinstalling everything with new lubrication might be as useful as new parts. When I rebuilt mine it was quite surprising how much buildup inside the pump there can be. This is even after several vinegar treatments.

I took the all of the pump apart and placed it all including the housing in a bucket of diluted vinegar. Left it all in over night and then lightly wiped off all the gunk that was left. Re-lubed it all and put it back together. Seems pretty good so far.

Be generous with the lube.

peghall · 11-06-2015, 18:55

If you're feeling increasing back pressure, a blocked tank vent is your most likely culprit.

btrayfors · 11-06-2015, 19:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luther

Many thanks, I will attack that job this weekend. Will also increase the number of spares I carry.
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Luther,

You can buy the whole pump assembly complete with all the parts for about $220 online on eBay. You might consider that in lieu of buying more spare parts, as even the basic kit is $75 or more.

And, changing out the entire pump is an easy fix. Then, time permitting, you can disassemble the old one and replace any worn or suspicious parts, so you have a ready spare in hand.

These are great little heads; you're lucky to have 2 of them. I just have one, it's 34 years old and going strong. I did the "whole pump assembly" switcheroo a few years back.

By the way, I also have an "absolutely no paper or foreign material in the toilet" policy, with signs posted and every guest given individual instruction. I have a little plastic bag-lined trash can nearby for disposal of toilet tissue, feminine products, etc.

The vinegar trick is a good one. I use a regime of a little chlorox frequently and less often the vinegar treatment. Seems to work well and not destroy the rubber innards.

Bill

HopCar · 11-06-2015, 19:30

Like Peggie, I don't think the problem is with your toilet.

If the pump is bringing in water but not moving it out, the problem is most likely down stream of the pump. As Peggie said, check the holding tank vent first. You can do this by removing the pump out cap, slowly. It might be under pressure. Try flushing with the cap off. If the problem goes away, you know it's a blocked or partially blocked vent.

Do you have a filter in your vent line? These are often the location of a blockage. I sell them but I don't recommend them if you can avoid it.

SeaLand 5/8" Holding Tank Filter 51-309310001

If that isn't the problem, look for a blockage between the pump and the holding tank.

If there is no blockage, then start looking at the pump.

Raritan PH II Pump Assembly - PHII

Peggie's book is worth having: Get Rid of Boat Odors by Peggie Hall

clyde · 12-06-2015, 09:02

i have had 2 raritan-ll terlits for many moons, and think have them figured out! the 'no pump out ' problem is a faulty 'duck bill', so replace it! always use NEW duck bills! i tried to clean the old ones, and plain and simple, it does`nt work...always use NEW! i keep a couple of spares onboard. grease new ones with some teflon grease, also replace the small 'O' rings on the pump shaft, when they leak up the shaft, another is the flat flapper valve under the pump, that needs to be cleaned every 2 or 3 yrs, and put back in the propper position, as in the picture!...same time the duck bill is being replaced...cleaning is important! once you`ve done it a couple of times, it`s easy! i also buy the cheapest vegatable oil to lube the workings at times...the 2nd problem is the crystals that build up in the pumpout hose, when using salt water to flush! the mixture of salt water/urine, which creates the crystals, needs to be cleaned out every 5 yrs or so...i plummed mine with fresh water, so no crystals...we carry a lot of water! [400 gallons] anything else drop me a line...clyde...ps...you don`t need the kit, just buy the individual parts...like the duck bills...

Kalinowski · 12-06-2015, 09:22

We use muriatic acid to clean the salt crystals out of the head-to-tank hose and the joker valve. Works great. Just let it stand till the bubbling stops, then flush. We finish up with some cheap veggie oil to lube the innards. We've been using this method to clean the head deposits for years with no problems. Sure beats having to r&r the hoses!

I did have a similar problem on our previous yacht. Mud dauber wasps had plugged up the tank vent.

deblen · 12-06-2015, 10:41

Thanks everyone-for all the tips & tricks with PHII.
We love ours & have had great service from it.
What we like best is the lever arm/handle.Great for old arthritic folks.
Installed a complete rebuild kit some yrs ago to try to stop a small leak of clean salt water,if any water is left standing in base after use.
Installing kit was simple follow the instructions.
Checked for cracks also,twice now,as leak persists.
Single sheet T/paper is used sparingly for #2,with no problem.Bag for #1.

Apologies for butting in on thread,but has anyone experienced this type of tiny annoying leak.
I'm replacing all hoses anyway,as starting to smell a bit & they are old.
Maybe that will fix leak,but doubt it,as have had head in my shop several times over the last few yrs & hoses looked fine.
Tks/Len

hellosailor · 12-06-2015, 10:54

Len-
Seeing as you have the spares, and the toilets may not have been rebuilt since they were cannibalized from the original Ark...I'd say if you're going to play with sewage, do a full rebuild and use all the new parts while you are in there. You'll have a firm foundation going forward, instead of wondering when you need to pull it apart all over again. (I hate doing the same job twice.)

deblen · 12-06-2015, 11:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Len-
Seeing as you have the spares, and the toilets may not have been rebuilt since they were cannibalized from the original Ark...I'd say if you're going to play with sewage, do a full rebuild and use all the new parts while you are in there. You'll have a firm foundation going forward, instead of wondering when you need to pull it apart all over again. (I hate doing the same job twice.)

Was this directed @ Luther??

Stu Jackson · 12-06-2015, 11:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luther

Many thanks, I will attack that job this weekend. Will also increase the number of spares I carry.

If you approach the repair as only needing the necessities, then you can save some $$ by buying only the two pieces you usually need, and save the rest of the pieces for a major overhaul.