PUR / Katadyn Watermaker Help from an Ex-Cruiser

[CarinaPDX]

Someone will have the definitive answer. I'm pretty certain they will not completely overlap. I bought the upgrade kit to convert from a 35 to a 40e and the only parts that were kept were the motor/gearbox and the membrane - the rest were quite different.

Greg

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Joka.

[Joka]

Thanks Gordmay, pleasure coming onboard CF!

Greg, cheers for the advice!


Anyone else knows about the differences for seal replacement kit between 35e and 40e? Do you think it would be worth buying the 40e seal kit if i get the 35e seal kit for free?

Cheers!

J

[CarinaPDX]

Yes, you need the 40e kit. The 35 had different poppet valves with o-rings (should be part of the 35 kit). The 40e has a much simpler, and different, pump. I am certain there are parts in the 40e kit which are not in the 35 - I just wasn't certain if there were a few parts in the 35 kit that you could salvage. The 35 kit is not nearly enough to rebuild a 40e - buy the proper kit.

Greg

[TEV]

In continuation of questions, I am in the process of rebuilding both a PUR80 and PUR80II that were installed by the PO. Having no idea of the condition or numbers of hours in lieu of attempting to run them I am doing rebuilds. The older PUR80 has some scratches/pits in the cylinder wall and though it's a long shot was wondering if anyone has an idea if the new piston seals will provide enough seal to build pressure. Though I plan to replace them the old Cup Seal and PIP Ring have no indication of wear from sliding over the spots in question.
Thanks

[AndyEss]

I have a surplus PowerSurvivor80Ii pressure vessel. PM me if you are interested.

[TEV]

From my last post with pic of the cylinder with some pitting, katadyn tech said no problem use 600 grid WD and try remove as much of the pitting as possible - I used 1200 WD and it does look better, noe waiting on rebuild kits on order.
Another question about the current draw of the motors with no load, I didn't want to break open the gearbox if not necessary but can anyone provide insight to the difference in current draw 1.7A vs 3.2A?;
MROD-80-LM-2 (SN#0118) Motor: 3C-131813BG SN#: 51-90-6097-0170 no load 1.7A
MROD-80 80II (SN#1047) Motor: 3547-531 (GEARMOTOR 29:1) no load 3.2A

[TEV]

Update, per Katadyn tech the amp draw is right in spec for new motor with gearbox and no pump attached, so these oldies will go back online. They have been very helpful sent me their full manual they use in their shop to test & service to powersurvivor 80 water makers.

[imaginz]

Hi all
I am currently in the Tuamotos. After very faithful service so far, I've started having problems with a Powersurvivor 80E watermaker and would be grateful for any support /advice. (I have checked through previous advice in this thread, the Manual, Gary's pdf watermaker book and his website for possible answers to following questions, but without success).

1. The motor/gear drive has no problem operating when disconnected from the pump and indeed the motor & pump runs fine and at around normal rate and rated amps in Clean mode - but the pump rate slows significantly and the motor is now tripping my 20A breaker only a short period after being put into Run.

The motor had only a small amount of carbon on the brushes, but nothing that would appear significant... But does get hot to the touch in Run mode and hence appears to be overworked, hence the tripping.

The same tripping occurs even when the intake and reject systems are bypassed, so it doesn't appear to be a problem due to air in the intake/pre-filter, or a restriction in reject pipework.

Does this indicate the problem is likely to lie with the membrane? (This only has around 500hrs and alkaline followed by acid cleaning has not indicated any significant detritus in the cleaning fluid - but neither has cleaning it solved the tripping problem!).

I have installed the seal kit (except for piston cup seal and PIP ring, as the latter was missing from the seal kit I was carrying (Defender!) - although all seals, poppets, springs etc seemed fine. I do have a spool valve kit but have not installed this, as it's function isn't clearly spelt out anywhere (and I note the caution from Gary in a previous answer) ...although apparently something to with high pressure side, so may potentially be a/the problem?


2. The manual gives some info on servicing eccentric drive unit, but makes no mention of the use of the DTE oil included in the seal repair kit in this part of the unit.. When opened up there were just remnants of a small amount of greasy sludge in there. Although the outer casing has what appear to be two oil filling holes, if the 125mm of oil included in the seal kit is added here, it simply leaks out through the approx 1mm gap between the eccentric drive casing hole (1.5" diameter) and the motor shaft bearing (even when tightened to recommended torque). Is it perhaps intended that only a much smaller amount is required and picked up by the eccentric drive, or is that oil meant for a gearbox which is between motor and the eccentric* drive casing, and only a small amount of grease should be used for the in eccentric drive needle bearings, as per manual? (Please excuse my ignorance!)


3. Can anyone confirm if the correct location for the thin plastic spacer should be on the end of the motor drive shaft (ie between the eccentric drive and the bearing in the outer casing), rather than on the inner side next to the wider bushing?

Any thoughts would be very gratefully appreciated! Unfortunately I'm in a bit of a remote location without constant Internet access. Covid also makes shipping a bit of a nightmare at the moment (I've heard of items taking several months one way to get here at the moment).

Thanks in anticipation of any assistance!

[AndyEss]

Imaginz - I’ve been away from my boat since Covid. I don’t have my PowerSurvivor80 manual - or system - in front of me.

It sounds like you have a blockage in the high pressure output - ie the pump flow to the membrane and through it.

Can you pull the membrane out and see if that “solves”
the pump stalling? Be sure to disconnect the pressure (membrane) chamber from your fresh water system so you don’t pump your fresh water tanks full of salt.

I guess I am a little apprehensive that your pump pulls the standard amperage even in bypass (clean) mode. The pump should be essentially unloaded in this mode and I would think it would draw a much lower amperage than when in standard operating mode.
I wish I could run some tests for you on my system, but it’s 5000 miles away.
Your DTE oil question is very appropriate for operational status, but I doubt that this would be the current pump stall problem. These aren’t internal combustion engines where lack of oil will almost instantly destroy the power parts.

[daletournier]

I would take the motor to a shop and get it looked at.

I had the 80e on my last boat, had exactly the same symptoms and also ran through the same tests ie tested motor separate from system.

Unfortunately testing the motor not under load did show the problem. In the end I purchased a new motor, problem solved.

[imaginz]

Thanks for the advice. I have now tried it without the membrane installed and had no problems with the motor overheating and tripping breaker (it drew 3-5amps)... Though tbh, I still don't think this confirms the membrane is the source of the problem, as the pump is essentially unloaded (in the same vein as Andyess's comment about clean mode). I think I'll have to wait until Tahiti and get the motor checked first, as that may be a cheaper solution than new membranes!

Thanks again for your input!

[AndyEss]

One thing you might look into is changing out the PowerSurvivor pressure vessel to an industry standard one so you don’t have to use the proprietary PS membranes. There was a thread here and one CF member suggested this and gave part numbers.
I did this based on those recommendations, and from memory (again, I’m not on my boat because of Covid border closures) the new, industry standard pressure vessel and new DOW membrane (2514?) cost about the same as just the replacement PS membrane.
The DOW salt water 2514 membranes are about $125 (US).

[imaginz]

Thanks Andy. I'll certainly look into the alternatives (available from CruiseRO?)....Katadyn membrane prices do seem crazy! And no acknowledgment let alone a reply from their 'support' email after a week has definitely 'encouraged' me to look elsewhere too!

I hope you make it back to your boat soon!

[Badsanta]

Sorry if this was already covered. Overloads under pressure but runs fine under no pressure. Could be corrosion in the electric . Enough volts comes through to run, but under a load resistant causes the tripping. Check for loose connections or corrosion , broken wire. Just a thought.
Hope its an easy fix for you.