Nova Kool LT 200 fridge not working

[squarehead]

Our Nova Kool fridge keeps on trying to start the compressor then kicks out . The compressor fan keeps on,and each time the compressor starts it make a small beep noise, then about 20 seconds later it shuts off.
Now it has blown the 15 amp fuse after 2 days of trying to start.
Do you think there could be something wrong with the thermostat, or is it something more serious.
I'm not sure how to trouble shoot it.
The fridge is a 1987 LT 200.

[SV THIRD DAY]

All the thermostat does is give a On or Off Continuity signal to the electronic control module. Watch this video about electrical issue troubleshooting. Eventhough it is a different compressor/controller than yours, the electrical issue trouble shooting is the same.

You have three possibilities and in order of probability:
1. An electrical issue causing a voltage drop at start-up and kicking off the control module....the most common reason a Danfoss compressor fails to start.
2. A failed electronic control module...replace it with a new one and off you go.
3. A failed compressor...so rare that you can almost rule that out.

The below video will help you figure out which one it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9FoE1uHzy8

My guess, is a failed controller because the fan should only run when the compressor runs, so if you fan is running and the compressor is not then I bet the 12v DC to 3 phase AC board in the control module has failed but the 12v DC fan board is still ok....my off the cuff guess anyway.

Ping me if you need any help.

[ranger58sb]

Call NovaKool. Their techs are helpful.


-Chris

[squarehead]

Thank you for the video link.
I'm heading down to the boat now to trouble shoot, hopefully I can get it up and running by the weekend. I'm getting tired of warm beer!

[Richard Kollmann]

squarehead, On that unit when the module fuse blows the module is most often defective. This can result if module is repeatedly cycling do to compressor overload caused by excessive over loading conditions such as too much refrigerant or oil thickening viscosity changes have occurred.

If module fuse is not blown and power fuse for refrigerator source power is blown the problem is most likely a boat wiring problem.

[squarehead]

Well, it turns out the control module was no longer working.
I had a choice of replacing the module with an after market unit for $300 or purchasing a new refridgeration unit for $1000.

I bit the bullet and installed a new unit ,with freezer yesterday.
Always a fun day crawling around inside my cockpit locker!!

Thanks for your help, that video link was very helpful.

SH

[sailormed]

This an old thread I got when looking for something different.
I found out that fridge heat evacuation is very bad on my Hunter 38 and similar Hunter models. I nearly halved my Amp hours consumed by both the fridges on my Hunter 38.
I cut holes in the floor of the fridge housing for fresh air intake, cut a hole for warm air evacuation and installed a silent computer fan on the evacuation side. You could also use the installed ventilator, but it is more noisy. One fan is enough, use the existing connections on the Danfoss compressor.
See attached picture for the final installation presentation.