"New" Jabsco manual pump housing cracked

[Tetepare]

Hi all, have an issue with our newish Jabsco manual and want to float it out here.


The previous Jabsco manual head (same model, we all know it) was original to the boat and lived for 23+ years. I rebuilt it four or five times, but finally replaced it since a new complete Jabsco toilet costs not appreciably more than a rebuild.


That was about three years ago. When installed, the new Jabsco toilet was extremely difficult to pump and required (requires) constant lubrication. Also, the Flush Control Lever, when pumping, would self-shift to the left and had to constantly be manually pushed all the way over to the right to pump.


This year now I notice that there is a crack near the base of the pump housing. It is quite small, but it is revealed due to the excretion of the blue toilet chemical.


Of course, this is frustrating that the previous Jabsco toilet lasted 23+ years, and this one is busted, after not working very well to begin with.


An inquiry to Xylem/Jabsco about the crack received the response "we never see cracks in these systems" and, of course, it's out of warranty.


The replacement pump housing is roughly US$100, more than half the price of a new complete toilet. Duh.


Has anyone else had their Jabsco manual pump housing crack?

[peghall]

It's rare for a Jabsco toilet to last 23 years, but while they've never been top quality, 20 years ago they were a lot higher quality than they are now, especially since Xylem acquired Jabsco from ITT. Xylem is a US company, but does -0- mfr'g in the US...it's all done in 3 locations--the UK, Mexico and China. Your toilet--and everything else Jabsco makes that's sold in the US--was made in Mexico using materials and components sourced from China and other Asian sources. I know many people who replace Jabsco toilet pumps annually as preventive maintenance.


So I'm afraid you have only two choices: replace the pump and expect to do that at least every couple of years...or upgrade to the top rated manual toilet that's still made in the US: The Raritan PH SuperFlush (current version of their PHII which has been the top rated manual toilet since Raritan introduced it in 1982) Raritan PH SuperFlush It's available as a "conversion" (everything but the bowl, seat and lid). This is the only retailer who has it Raritan PH Super Flush Conversion Kit #P103 It's considerably more expensive than a Jabsco pump (until you add up the cost of replacing it every couple of years), but will easily provide at least 20+ years of reliable trouble-free service if it's just kept well lubricated, the joker valve is replaced annually, and is rebuilt (about $60 for the kit) every 5-6 years. And btw...the mounting bolt pattern was designed to be a match for the Jabsco mounting bolt pattern.

--Peggie

[Tetepare]

Awesome Peg, thank you! I didn’t know Raritan had a drop in replacement. So long as the bowl fits...

It’s going to cost me $100 anyway, leaving the raritan to be only $169. As you know, that’s nothing particularly considering it gets more use than the winches.

[sailorboy1]

I had 2 of the manual Jabsco heads on the boat for years. I recently replaced the main one with an electric and during that changed the hose from the head tho the holding tank (which was the $$$$ hose about 8 years old). At that time I found out why that head pumped so much harder to pump almost downhill than the other that had to pump uphill 3' to get to the tank. Is was because the hose had scaled up so much that the 1.5" hose was less than half.

Just something to consider if it is hard to pump (don't forget about the vent also especially if it gets harder to pump as the tank gets close to being full).

[peghall]

Distilled white vinegar won't clean out a buildup (actually it will, but it's so labor intensive and nobody knows how to do it correctly that it's not worth the effort), but a cupful--no more than 2 cupfuls, depending on hose length, of distilled white vinegar flushed ALL the way through the system once a week will PREVENT mineral buildup in hoses. After 45 minutes follow the vinegar with about a quart of clean FRESH water to rinse out the hose. Never leave vinegar sitting in the bowl...soft rubber (your joker valve) left to sit and soak in vinegar will swell up and distort.

Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, available from any box store or hardware store is the cheapest easiest way to clean out the hoses. Use a 12-15% dilution of the product in the bottle...read and CAREFULLY FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS for safe handling!!! Flush it all the way through the hose...rinse it out after 45 minutes. A really serious buildup may require two doses.

--Peggie

[sailorboy1]

[QUOTE=peghall;3185943
Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, available from any box store or hardware store is the cheapest easiest way to clean out the hoses. [/QUOTE]

I finished my working career as a water treatment guy specifically on prevently and removing mineral scale. Over the years I added LOTS of muriatic acid down my head system. In the end the 1.5" hose was about 1/2".

Adding acid to a seawater flush head after the scale has formed I feel is basically a waste of time. Adding vinegar is a TOTAL waste of time. Sure on paper the acid should remove it. But unless you are going to setup a pump and circulation system all you are doing is making the edge of the scale a little soft )less hard really). Of course setting that up is as much work as just replacing the hose.

[robert sailor]

I've used Muriatic acid in heads for 35 years with excellent results however it's used often enough to not allow big buildups to form. I add it to the bowl..probably a half gallon or more and give it a couple of pumps, you'll see the bubbles going crazy for awhile and when it slows down I give it two more pumps and it does the same dance. It take about a dozen pumps to work everything out in total and sometimes I add a bit more towards the end as it gets neutralized as it works it's way through. I'm not saying it's the best or better but it's always worked well for me and I've been at the game a long time. Vinegar is great for cleaning the bowel.
Jabsco heads are the cheap seats, no question however I've found the key to longevity is how well they are lubricated. I lube ours about once a month. I remove the fitting at the top of the pump, remove the piston and then lube the cylinder walls with silicone grease, pretty much always works easily. With me it's almost a game to prove I can keep them working, eventually you will wear a pump out so its 90 bucks and you start over but that takes a few years.
If your planning on long term cruising your money is much better spent on a better head and Peggy's suggestion is a very good one, I've used them myself and they are very good heads.

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

I had 2 of the manual Jabsco heads on the boat for years. I recently replaced the main one with an electric and during that changed the hose from the head tho the holding tank (which was the $$$$ hose about 8 years old). At that time I found out why that head pumped so much harder to pump almost downhill than the other that had to pump uphill 3' to get to the tank. Is was because the hose had scaled up so much that the 1.5" hose was less than half.

Just something to consider if it is hard to pump (don't forget about the vent also especially if it gets harder to pump as the tank gets close to being full).

Thanks for that, and noted. I changed ALL of the hoses a month prior to changing the head...all of the hoses were 23 YO as well. So the problem isn't/ wasn't the hoses, it's the Jabsco toilet.

[PaulvR]

I have had the crack!

I have learned to pump in a straight line. I coach guests on pumping firmly but straight and deliberately.....no rocking on the top and bottom of each stroke, and no wobbling side to side like a drunk with a sloppy cane.

Modern mass production requires more finesse :-)