Need a little help

[insatiable1]

Hi all and Happy New Year!

I'm getting started on the crappiest boat job there is...waste line replacement. I just can't handle the "boat smell" anymore.

I've ordered a 50' roll of Trident Odor Safe hose and have spent most of this afternoon tracing the runs and coming up with a game plan. It's going to be a major PITA accessing some of the areas I need to get into to. The biggest issue I see however is that the existing hoses must be original to the boat. In places I can see that there are zip ties on them that can't be reached from either side by at least 3'+. They must have laid the hose before building out the interior

Have any of you experienced this? Any ideas on how to cut those ties?

Thanks for the help!

[Dsanduril]

Depends on whether you can get something straight pushed to them. A utility knife/razor blade attached to a stick can cut them. Might nick the hose but you don't care. Watch your hands getting the stick in and out, and watch for anything else you don't want to cut.

I've done something similar using a stick and my flexible Dremel whip, but don't know about that distance.

And if getting in there requires something flexible,

[boatpoker]

Forget the hose. Use ABS or PVC pipe. Will never leak or permeate, dirt cheap and super easy to make tight curves or bend and a nice straight fall with various cheap fittings. All you need is 6" of that ridiculously epensive hose at the tank and 6" at the toilet to connect the pipe.

[OldGreyB]

To cut ties that you cannot reach, attach a reciprocating metal saw blade with cable ties and gaffer tape to a painters extendable pole. A 2 foot to 4 foot could be short enough to maneuver into the space, but extendable length to cut the ties. A couple of links below to such equipment:

Pole:
• Adjusts from 2 feet to 4 feet
• Lightweight fiberglass outer pole makes it durability and easy to handle
• Strong hexagonal aluminum inner pole prevents twisting and locks in 6 inch increments
https://www.lowes.com/pd/2-ft-to-4-f...ole/1001314964

Typical blade:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-Lazer...ade/1000680587

[RaymondR]

Hacksaw a slot in the end of a piece of 1/4" steel rod. Push the slot over the cable tie and twist the rod with a vice grip.

[insatiable1]

WOW! Thanks for the comments and ideas. You all have me thinking now. I love the idea of PVC but there is just no way to make that happen without pulling engines and taking out the master cabinetry....not going to happen. Plus my fate is already set having ordered $500 bucks worth of hose that's already on the truck.

I thought about a knife on a stick and almost tried it until I noticed the hydronic heater hoses and wiring running in the same space. The idea of breaking them never entered my mind and I think that may be the answer to my problem. I should be able to do that without damaging anything else

[peghall]

You can make this job a lot less "crappy" if you do a couple of things:
1. Before taking anything apart, flush gallons of clean water through the entire system.
2. Put a plastic waste can liner and/or disposable aluminum pan under every connection to catch any spills.
3. Pulling hoses off fittings is a lot easier if you warm the hose a bit first (Use a heat gun if you really know what you're doing with it...I always used a blow dryer).

4. In many cases, pulling new hose through as you pull old hose out can make swapping 'em out a lot easier. Buy a male-male connector, cut the ends of both hoses as cleanly as possible...you want to butt them tightly to create the smoothest unbroken surface possible. Use pvc cement, 5200 or whatever you have to "glue" both hoses to the connector...duct tape won't hold if you have to pull hard, hose clamps can get caught.

Warm the ends of the new hose and lubricate 'em with a little dishwashing liquid--or better yet, K-Y jelly.

None of this will make this job the most fun you'll ever have, nor will it help you cut those d'd zip ties...but it will make it easier and a lot less "crappy" once you've managed to do that.


--Peggie

[insatiable1]

Thank you Peggie! Yes bio hazard containment has been thought about...even ordered some cork cone plugs to close off limber holes to ensure that nothing escapes the areas being worked in. The male to male connector is a great idea! Thank you

[Jim Cate]

G'Day insatiable1. Couldn't help but notice your screen name since we've owned two yachts named Insatiable, I and II. Just a comment: it would help if you identified just what WA you live in. Is it Washington State, USA or Western Australia ?? Both are abbreviated "WA".

Jim

[insatiable1]

Hi Jim, I have also owned two boats named Insatiable. I am located in LaConner WA USA. Cold here now and probably much nicer in Australia I think. 20 knots of wind in the marina and about 40F. Giving the heater a good workout tonight

[Jim Cate]

Our first Insatiable got her name in 1984, stimulated by a Hagar the Horrible cartoon. The name has served well, being cognate in both Spanish and French. including the "wink-wink, nudge-nudge" aspects and was often an ice breaker in the Aduana's office in Mexico and French islands in the SP.

And yeah, Aussie is warmer for the most part, especially the vast areas burning up. Quite terrifying to be honest, even though we escaped from New South Wales just before it blew up. All ok here in Tassie so far...

So, good luck with your pleasant little refit job... Peggie is always a good source of ideas for plumbing problems!

Jim

[RSB333]

Forget the whole project. Purchase a composting toilet and cap the old hose.
Good luck,
RSB333

[AgPilot]

Remove all the plumbing hoses, existing toilet, and holding tank and purchase a composting toilet. You won't be sorry.

[somanyboats]

We have used a composting toilet on 4 different boats. Love them.
No smell, no fixing broken parts. Resale has not been an issue.

[Cheechako]

Get yourself a big quality set of Channel Lock pliers. Those old hoses will often be stuck on the fittings. Also the new hoses will be difficult to get on the fitting. I have had tendonitis in my forearms for 30 years now from doing that job by hand.. twisting tight hoses too many times. I did exactly like you are, bought a roll of quality hose and did the whole boat.
If real tight installing the new hose, try some lanolin on the hose end after you dip it in hot water (google Lanocote, or just get pure lanolin from a drug store)