Material to Mount Replacement Head On

[Darb]

I want to re-install a Raritan electric head that has previously been installed in the aft head of a Hunter 410. It was installed over the holes left by the original head and, as a result, is anchored by only two of the intended four lag bolts onto the fibreglass sole. I would like to remove the head and, first, make up and attach a 'plate' made of a synthetic material on the sole at that location, and then attach the base of the head to that.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a material that could be used to make up that plate? I would like it to be something that is rot resistant, reasonably attractive and that can securely hold the lag bolts that will hold the base of the toilet. I will pre-drill/cut the plate to accommodate the supply and discharge hoses prior to instalation.

[jeepbluetj]

Starboard.

[Sandero]

Corian

[peghall]

Corian on Starboard or 1/2" plywood with nicely trimmed edges would work just fine. Fill ALL the existing holes and drill new ones.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by peghall

Corian on Starboard or 1/2" plywood with nicely trimmed edges would work just fine. Fill ALL the existing holes and drill new ones.

I would add (and I must be feeling cocky to follow Peg Hall with advice) that "fill" in this regard really applies with any kind of plywood/wood/material capable of absorption) where the possibility exists of water ingress, clearly an issue with a head, even with a gasketed base.

The "epoxy donut" beloved by repairers of old-school cored deck works in the "drill-and-fill" method should work well. With plywood, it's good to isolate the fasteners from the wood itself this way; another belts and suspenders technique is to use nylon bushings as well.

Starboard is HDPE plastic, textured and coloured to look appealing and priced to match. There are alternatives such as "Seaboard" and industrial grade HDPE or even restaurant-grade cutting board material, that are essentially the same thing, minus colour options, but in a wide range of thicknesses. All can be worked, with pauses to avoid melting, by woodworking tools, power jigsaws and table saws. It's great stuff for backing plates, stand-offs and I'm even usining thick pieces of it to separate my steel cambered deck from my new, straight traveller and thin strips to isolate my aluminum roof from my steel pilothouse.

[Sandero]

Here's my base:

Groco w/ speckle paint...

[UNCIVILIZED]

There are plenty of impermeable sheet stock laminates out there. Though whatever you choose, check it's mechanical/physical properties first, to ensure that it's up for the task.

[Stumble]

This should be a sheet of G10, NOT starboard. HDPE plastics deform under load and should not be used in anything that is under compression, the material will cold flow away from the bolt holes and allow whatever is mounted to start to wiggle.

The other advantage to G10 is that is can be threaded, so you can bolt directly too it.

[peghall]

...I must be feeling cocky to follow Peg Hall with advice...

Not this time...but if he was having trouble flushing the toilet, maybe...

Peggie
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Bo...dp/1892399784/
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

[Pete7]

How about a nice piece of 3/4" wood with lots of varnish after the holes have been drilled. This one had half a dozen coats of varnish, but because it's inside it should last. The photo was taken 8 years after I installed the new toilet.

Pete

[robwilk37]

+1 for G10. but even though it can hold a thread, in this case id embed blind nuts on the under side in an abundance of caution. last thing you want is to have the head break lose at sea.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Stumble

This should be a sheet of G10, NOT starboard. HDPE plastics deform under load and should not be used in anything that is under compression, the material will cold flow away from the bolt holes and allow whatever is mounted to start to wiggle.

The other advantage to G10 is that is can be threaded, so you can bolt directly too it.

AKA the clearer way of stating what I was thinking, while "typing politely". Though there are cheaper alternatives than G10, which are also easier to work with/machine. Given that G10 is hard on the cutting surfaces of most tools.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by robwilk37

+1 for G10. but even though it can hold a thread, in this case id embed blind nuts on the under side in an abundance of caution. last thing you want is to have the head break lose at sea.

If the g10 is thick enough for proper threading then I wouldn't worry about it. If the g10 isn't thick enough then absolutely add blind nuts. Or if you get creative you can also epoxy standard nuts onto the back side of the g10 before it's installed.

[hpeer]

I went to Home Depot or Lowes and bought a plastic facia board.

Not sure what they are but they worked and are relatively cheap.

[Rorzech]

I like to use that bright green solid teflon board. It's designed for high wear areas where steel would wear through in no time. It's tougher than a pigs nose. I use it in 3/8" & 1/2". It's easy to work with. I don't know it's trade name, but that's what we have google for. Right ? I have seen it in black and yellow also