Lunaire lpsc-16hl troubleshooting

[marcjsmith]

Hey folks,


work on my Moody continues. between playing on the boat and working, with with summer nearing I've started troubleshooting the HVAC this weekend.

started slow with turning on the fan/blower switch on high. i can hear the motor humming but nothing happens. I removed the ducts from the blower. I oiled the motor, spun the squirrel cage(SC). its moves. with the switch on high if I spin the SC it will start to spin. but when I turn the speed down , it won't respond to the lower speed. stays spinning not really fast, but not really slow either. when I turnoff the fan and turn it back on the only way to get it to spin is to manually spin it...

Thinking that i've either got a bad motor. it was getting warm. or a bad capacitor.

Cap is 330VAc 21-25 mfd. pretty sure as long I get a cap thats similar in those figures should be OK. motor is a dayton 4c445a easily sourced

turned on the heat, the coils get warm. water pump kicks on, but no water comes out. sea cock is open and strainer is full of water and no blockages. pumps get really warm. and after about 60 seconds the breaker trips.

turned on the cool, coils get cold. water pump tries to pump. but no water.

in both cases blower motor hums. but no air unless i manually spin the SC.

since everything was installed new in 88-89 I'm thinking I'm in for a capacitor, blower motor and water pump, Sound about right? Any pearls of wisdom before I start ordering stuff? Yes I know if what O do doens't work and I end up needing a recharge I'll need to grab my ankles since the price of r22 is quite insane...

[Lepke]

First, I'd confirm you're getting full power to all pumps and motors. You describe multiple items not working. They may have a common problem.

[marcjsmith]

at the capacitor I was seeing 118 v. Didn’t think to check at the water pump I’ll be back on Thursday likely I can check. Being that the boat sat for nearly 10 years unused. I would expect the pump to at least have crap for seals, and the blower to be in less than ideal condition. I’m not in a hurry to spend needless money or labor

[Coolerking]

Make sure the pump is actually running and it is flooded with water.
Is there a thru hull valve on the overboard side as well?

[marcjsmith]

Pump got hot, making noise and was vibrating. So I’m making the assumption it was operating. Pump is below the w/l. Graco strainer is full and when seacock open, water flows into it. Exit thruhull above w/l not blocked either

[Coolerking]

Are you sure the pump is flooded?
Just because it is below water line, doesn't mean it can't be airlocked
Have you removed the discharge hose from it and directed the flow into a bucket to confirm it is functioning?
If you have no water flow, you need to fix that first, before anything else.
What is make and model of pump.

[marcjsmith]

its a lunaire something or other. 120064 model wpc - 5???? I think that makes it a "march" pump likely 500GPH which mean sits a march LC-3CP-MD


label is pretty illegible. looks like this one https://www.marinaire.com/Marine-Air...cp-md-115v.htm


pump is "operating" thats to say it turns on it makes noise. and its get warm. thats doesn't mean its functioning properly. all hoses are clear of blockages no water comes out.



I figure even if the pump worked. the blowers not working properly either. so at a minimum blower or capacitor or both are also shot. Capacitor would be the quick and cheap fix, if the capacitor doesn't solve the blower problem, then the blower is likely shot as well.

[marcjsmith]

got the pump and strainer assembly out yesterday.
did a second trial run before removing, and with the seacock open, and hoses removed, water flowed out of the pump outlet with the pump not running (below water line no blockages). with the pump turned on...water flow did not increase. will have to separate everything, clean it all up and see what we got. maybe its just a rebuild of the pump assy, or just a new pump. which would be nice as its cheaper. than pump/motor



but.... its a boat...

[Coolerking]

That is a PML 500, built by March Pumps and branded by whoever originally sold the unit.
it is liquid cooled, submersible and is not self priming.
They are a mag drive impeller, on a ceramic shaft.
They burn out when run dry for too long.
The seals also fail at the cooling tubes and the motor then burns up.
If the impeller is not stuck and the shaft spins freely, then the motor is bad, it will hum and get warm, but the impeller wont turn.
You can quickly diagnose this all by removing the screws that hold the wet end on the motor.
You will then be able to check the internals i listed above.
We stock dozens of these as they fail quite often, most were run dry and not bled of air after a haul out.

[marcjsmith]

we use mag drive pumps on some of the ponds and fountains at the colege i work at, I'm intimately familiar with mag pump operation and cost....


now that it out of the boat I can take it apart and see whats going on and bench test it and play with it...


can you PM me contact info such that if I end up needing parts/pump I can purchase from a forum member?

[marcjsmith]

Broken magnet on the impeller. Cleaned out the water cooling passages.

[marcjsmith]

the joys continue. I had to disconnect the unit from the boat, and shift it around just so I could get to a couple of hidden screws to pull the blower housing off...

it appears that lunaire created some sort of a swivel mount for the blower so it could be rotated and tweaked to the particular direction they needed the discharge to face and then locked down.


well 30 years of rust, this dog isn't moving. had to grind off one mounting screw to release the motor and housing from the evaporator


looks like fun time ahead.... the rotating assembly looks like some sort fo a lazy-suzan type of ball bearing mount but with a set screw to lock it in place.


but my google searches are coming up empty...

[SV Norma Mae]

Hello Cooler king.
Do you have a website? I need to replace my old Glaicer bay mark 2 compressor, but would love to keep the cold plate etc as is.
I though you could help.
Thanks Doug

[Turtle Blues]

Set screw in your last pic is the blower squirrel cage onto the motor shaft with a set screw. Soak it with penetrating oil and be gentle, if you need to pry do it from the motor side. Suggest replacing capicator first to verify. Need to measure resistance not voltage. You are in Deale it's probably $15 at RE Michael, Annapolis. Motor has already been replaced with Grainger, so you have the # if necessary. You verified you have gas if the coil is cooling so thats a start.

[marcjsmith]

Originally Posted by Turtle Blues

Set screw in your last pic is the blower squirrel cage onto the motor shaft with a set screw.

the plate for the blower mount was beyond salvaging. I made a new one and was able line the motor up and then mark and drill holes in the plate so I didn't need the "lazy susan" mount.


been working flawless except the rheostat on the blower wasn't working the fan was hurricane strength or nothing. got the main cabin down to 65* a few weekends ago when it was 90* outside.


installed a new fan speed switch last weekend so now I have a variable speed fan... next job, refer....