Lets talk bilge pumps

[Simi 60]

Our main bilge pump is a rule 3500 @ 24v
Has worked for the 7 years we have had the vessel and I'm guessing 20 years prior

Float switch the same
But the float switch never sees water
Instead a toilet float in the bilge with PVC tube in it and running through a larger tube, pushes upwards to activate the dry float switch.

Works a treat.

[sailingharry]

A centrifugal Rule pump in the bilge and an associated water witch electronic sensor came with our boat 5 years ago. 100% reliable. And we have a keel stepped mast so it is tested on a regular basis!

[nrx500]

I have a Marshall 22 ft. catboat with a narrow bilge cavity under the engine shaft. Space is limited. Every year I replace my bilge pump with a Whale or a Rule. Every year the self contained automatic switch sticks in the on position and the pump burns out. I prefer the separate auto switches, but don't have the space. When will reliable self contained auto bilge pumps be available for small boats?

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by nrx500

I have a Marshall 22 ft. catboat with a narrow bilge cavity under the engine shaft. Space is limited. Every year I replace my bilge pump with a Whale or a Rule. Every year the self contained automatic switch sticks in the on position and the pump burns out. I prefer the separate auto switches, but don't have the space. When will reliable self contained auto bilge pumps be available for small boats?

I've been using a couple of the Whale Supersub Smart 650s for a few years with no issues. They're electronic sensors, not floats, so there's nothing to stick.

[moseriw]

1st.
Avoid that automatic blah scrap as they built pumps that will sink your boat b< refuse working when the<y detect oil in the bilge.
2nd. one can buy a horrible expensibe swim-switch at 300++ USD. They work well.
3rd. one can buy a horrible expensibe swim-switch at 50++ USD from Rule? that will burn within a year if one does not use a relais. (The sitch is said to accept 16Amps but the contacts will burn on 6 Amps!)
4.th one can buy a cheap 5-10 USD swim switch that will leak and drown within 3 months.
5.th one can us a switch from a swiming poole but as the mounting places are usually not wide enough it is not sure that it will work.

So the best solution is to buy a swim-switch at around 50-60USD and to connect it ONLY with a relay to avoid running it with higher electric current.

[foufou]

Most of the above posts are spot on. I went through a period of repeated failures of pumps and switches until I got a Johnson pump which is going on 6 years now. and I have a backup mounted above the primary pump and a bilge alarm on a switch in between them. A belt and suspenders approach. good luck.