Jabsco Twist and Lock Manual Toilet HandPump leaking

[Ricchezza]

Hello,

I installed 4 years ago a new manual Jabsco toilet. Now there's water coming out at the bar of the handle. I dismounted the handle, cleaned and change the big sels at the buttom. Still the same.

Now it seems that this conical part at the bottom ist not exactly round any more - like there broke down some milimeters (? what things in a toilet have this effects).

So i started to look for spare parts and i found that this bar is availaible Jabsco 29046-3000 or the whole new pump. I tried to loose the handle, but it doesnt works. I am afraid to destroy the bar.

Have anybody another idea why theres water coming out and/or how to put the handle of and replace the bar?

Thanks for any advise!!!

[sailorboy1]

To me replacing parts in those pumps always liked a lost cause and i just got a complete pump assembly. Oceyou replace that rod I bet the cam wears out etc.

One of the causes besides wear for the seals to start leaking is blockage in the line, like a scale build up.

[RickG]

Yep, I have rebuilt them and it's usually easier just to replace the unit. You do need to grease that plunger and plenty of grease should stop the leaking. However, they do wear and will need maintenance or replacement.

Cheers, RickG

[sv_pelagia]

Without getting into pros/cons of Jabsco heads...

Sounds line one or two of the O rings need replacing (larger O ring visible on end on right of your figure, or the small O ring at the top).

You can:
- source your own O rings (much cheaper but might not be quite right...)
- purchase pump assembly rebuild kit, which includes a lot more (including the joker valve which WILL need to be replaced sooner or later... they last 1-2 years for us)
- purchase complete pump assembly (often on sale only 30-50% more than rebuild kit)
- purchase whole new toilet (this makes no sense to me as it is the pump assembly that ever has issues (in our 21 years of Jabsco heads)

If it were me (and I've been there several times), I'd price out options #2 versus #3 and decide.

Either way, a very easy fix.

[peghall]

I'd replace the pump. The price of a new pump is only about 20% higher than a rebuild kit, and replacing the pump only requires removing and replacing 4 bolts and two hoses.


--Peggie

[Jim Cate]

Replacing the seal where the pump rod exits the body of the pump isn't a big deal, and the seals are available at any industrial seal supply house. The pump rod doesn't wear noticeably, so leaks are due to wear and perishing of the lip seal.

It's not even necessary to remove or completely disassemble the pump. Use a padded vice-grip to hold the rod and unscrew the T handle at the top. Then unscrew the seal body using an adjustable wrench on the hex that is molded into the body. Using a small drift, drive the lip seal out of t he seal body. This is the hardest part, and usually results in destroying the old seal. Take the (possibly mangled) seal to the industrial supply place for ID and buy a new one. cost is in the order of 2-3 dollars, so buy a couple!.* Clean the cavity in the seal body of any debris and put a bit of grease in the hole. Drive the new seal into place, using a socket wrench of slightly smaller diameter or use a bench vise as a press to push it in place. Put a bit of lube on the threads of the body and on the rod, then slide the body down over the rod and screw it back down. Replace the T handle. Done...

Down here in Oz, the replacement pump costs around 200AUD, so replacing the whole unit every time the shaft seal starts to leak is painful (at least to me). Learning to do this simple rebuild is worthwhile for the cruising sailor.

Jim

* If the replacement seal has a metal spring inside, ask the vendor to replace it with an o-ring (a common procedure). The springs deteriorate in salt water and cause the seal to fail. Some seals have stainless springs, but even they fail too soon, so the o-ring is a good substitute.

[RickG]

Originally Posted by peghall

I'd replace the pump. The price of a new pump is only about 20% higher than a rebuild kit, and replacing the pump only requires removing and replacing 4 bolts and two hoses.


--Peggie

Yep, save your old pumps. After doing this twice you can have a spare given the parts.

Cheers, RickG

[Ricchezza]

Thanks to everybody answering to my post!!!

Finally i ordered a new pumb, because i found out that at the bottom of the shaft not the seal has been the problem, there is missing a little, very little piece of this black plasic.
And this part i could not find to order separately.

But it is a pity, because in our old boat we had the the toilet and never a problem there!

Well, now no water leaks and i saved some spar parts.

Hugs to this community

[Shrew]

Defender.com

Twist and Lock Service Kit: $72.99
Twist and Lock Pump Assembly: $99.99

You can spend time rebuilding the entire unit to save $27.00. I'd pay the extra just to deal with 3 bolts, a couple of hoses and a 5 minute job.