How to Replace Seacocks

[erict]

After a lot of electrical and fuel system work, I thought the boat would be good to go for the season. But then I inspected some other items that were in the pre-purchase survey and discovered two inoperable seacocks (always open). They are both the inline valve type, not flanged seacocks. Hoses are single clamped and no room for second clamp.



I would like to replace them with Groco seacocks and add fairing blocks. However, the space around one of the valves is very tight. Also there are several hoses that abut the valve and probably contributed to the obvious corrosion. Those hoses need to be re-routed and somehow there needs to be more space around the valve for a fairing block. I lack the carpentry knowledge to understand how the cabinetry is constructed and generally am at a loss on how to proceed. Suggestions?

I read Maine Sail's guide to fabricating and installing fiberglass fairing blocks. His results look great but are time consuming and require a drill press, which I don't have. Someone else suggested making an epoxy fairing block by pouring epoxy into a cut off yogurt container. Any feedback on this method? This will be my first time doing any epoxy or fiberglass related work.

[capngeo]

Fairing blocks can be purchased out of reinforced plastic.... Already drilled, but requiring cutting to the proper angle. That said, there is no real good reason that a through hull (other than a sounder or log) needs to be perpendicular to the waterline.

Assuming you are already on the hard, grind the "mushroom cap" off the TH from the outside to remove the old seacock (again assuming it will not unscrew).

[erict]

The thru-hull in the photo is the only one near center. The others are on more angled parts of the hull. Can you use epoxy to fill the irregular space between bottom of a flat fairing block and the curved hull?

[capngeo]

Again, no reason to have plumbing.... Well... Plumb. It cares not what angle it exits the hull.

Epoxy would be suitable, IF it is reinforced. Resin alone is not very strong in thick applications.

[GordMay]

I suspect he's referring to installing a flat seacock base on to a curved hull surface.

[erict]

Yes, Gord, sorry if I'm not describing this well. I plan to re-use the existing holes that the mushrooms fit thru. Whatever angle they currently penetrate the hull is the angle I'll stick with.

The thru-hulls are located on curved portions of the hull. Placing a block with a flat bottom over the curved hull would leave large gaps. I assume epoxy resin (perhaps with a thickener) is a good way to: a) fill those gaps b) bond the block to the hull and c) form a strong base for the seacock.

I would prefer not to drill more holes and instead to use the "alternative method" described by Maine Sail. That method seats threaded rod into the fairing block but not through the hull.

[capngeo]

Unless your curve is extremely tight, or the TH extremely large, I can't see the "gap" being an issue. Use 3M 5200 or the like, and you'll be fine. I have installed TH fittings in a 12" diameter sea chest with just 52-goo!

[steamgoat]

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Read this, his articles are always very useful Bruce.

[sdowney717]

I would think just replace the valve with another one from HD or Lowes.
How long life do you expect, how old is the current setup?

If boat in the water, unscrew valve have new one ready to screw on and a backup plan in case the valve wont screw back on.

[w1651]

Originally Posted by sdowney717

I would think just replace the valve with another one from HD or Lowes.
How long life do you expect, how old is the current setup?

If boat in the water, unscrew valve have new one ready to screw on and a backup plan in case the valve wont screw back on.

This is probably why his seacock doesn't work now. Lowes and Home Depot brass just isn't the best way to go. I know i have the same problem times 3.

[sdowney717]

I used the bronze valves like this
Apollo valves they work and are not too pricey.
Amazon.com: Apollo Valves 7010401 Ball Valve - 3/4": Home Improvement