How often do you expect to rebuild your head with full time use?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by peghall

Disassembly for complete lubing however is Paramount.

No need to disassemble the pump to lube it. Buy a tube of SuperLube thick teflon (or silicon) grease...available from Ace Hardware for about $.6.95. Remove the 4 screws that hold the pump onto the base...lift the pump enough to stick nozzle on the tube of grease into it...give it a healthy squirt--about a tablespoon. Put the pump back onto the base, being careful not to overtighten screws 'cuz that can crack the pump and/or the base (and may be what cracks yours 'cuz I've never heard of muriatic acid doing any harm to any Raritan part before). Pump the toilet a couple of times spread the grease all ove the inside of the pump housing. You're good to go for at least several months...an entire season if you're just a "weekend warrior."

The SuperLube grease is also good for y-valves, seacocks, winches and any other moving part that that gets wet a lot.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

Hi Peggie,

Long time, no speak.

During one previous discussion on lubing of these pumps the question was asked whether or not I had my hands completely up inside at the pump in order to spread it around.

I'm glad to know that my taking it apart is not necessary to do that. However I'm confused as to how it actually Lubes the pump walls instead of just the preventer valve that keeps the effluent in the pump as you pump.

As I am away from my computer at the moment I can't I send pictures but I do have pictures of the failure locations and they are nowhere near the base or the top of the pumps which have failed. In the case of the bases which have failed they have been cracked on the tubes of the bottom of the bases...

Apologies for dictation...

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by peghall

No idea why someone would need to rebuild it every year.

Because 1-2 years is the average trouble-free lifespan of a Jabsco MANUAL toilet. Most people just replace the pump every year as preventive maintenance because it's easier, and costs very little more than a "service kit," than rebuilding it.

FWIW, it may make a difference to mention WHICH Jabsco unit (model and style) you have.

The price of a replacement pump and the need to lubricate the pump should have made it obvious that it's a manual toilet (Jabsco only makes one). Electric macerating toilet pumps don't need any lubrication and cost a whole lot more.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

No idea there were multiple models of a Jabsco manual toilet. Before we left for cruising I replaced the pump unit with this part number (29040-3000). As far as I could tell the pump I took out was original to the boat and still operating at over 11 years old. I decided to replace it as it was so old it didn't even have the twist lock feature. I HIGHLY doubt it was rebuilt for the 5 years before I purchased the boat as she was in Cuba for those 5 years. Someone had definatley replaced the o-ring on the pump plunger as it was orange in color.

Someone should tell my MANUAL Jabsco toilet pump that its life is over. 25 months in and it still operates absolutely fine (same joker valve). With a family of five, its gets used heavily every day as its the only head on the boat.

Personally I don't buy the 1-2 year lifespan. As long as its lubed and kept clean, there is really nothing to go wrong. Its an insanely simple device.

[Emouchet]

Jabsco: I change joker valve every year.

[Bleemus]

Originally Posted by chouliha

We have been living aboard for 25+ years and need to rebuild the Lavac / Henderson Bilge pump about once every 5-6 years.

When you say rebuild can you describe what actions you are taking? I have replaced hoses due to calcification and one seat seal but nothing else. Curious what others are doing.

[Mike Banks]

I used the el-cheapo TMC heads. A friend recommended them--he had a charter vessel and completely replaced all of his every two years, while they were still working fine so as not to encounter any problems that cost big money during the season. For this unit the valve and seal kits cost fifty dollars less than the entire unit, so replacing them with new units with a guarantee is common sense. I would gladly pay fifty dollars NOT to have to take one apart and replace the bits--and still have a worn motor and macerater.

I used the same TMC as he used--and after four years constant use and another four years of weekends only--no problems whatsoever.

Most electric macerater types have a fault in design--because they wish to keep the bowl as low as possible, space often beiong at a premium on small vessels, the 90 degree turn from the bowl to the pump is too sharp. A taller throne with a more gentle curve would save having to beat into submission any solid turds refusing to round the turn and face the macerater. For this purpose I had a short plastic solid rod in a pvc conduit scabbard which served on those rare occasions. Failing that--the only other option is to add dishwashing liquid detergent to the bowl and let time soften the culprit.

I do not think it matters what type of head you use--but I like to have an assembled replacement aboard in a locker so that in the event of problems I can switch units quickly and repair the faulty one (or replace it) at leisure and on deck.

Then you do not need to worry about the intervals for replacement--it is only a 30 minute job to switch units.

Calcium build-up in hoses is often a product of urine left in the pipes through incomplete flushing. A ploy one might find useful is to tip a bottle of dishwasher cleaner into the heads and briefly hit the pump/macerator switch to flood the hoses, before leaving the vessel for a few hours. This will help stop calcium build-up and will not be too savage on macerater stainless blades and seals. How it treats stainless steel holding tanks I could not say--I do not use anything other than HD polythene for such purposes.

[SV Sailfish]

Originally Posted by peghall

Get the ultimate book on Marine heads written by Peggy Hall. It should be on Amazon.

Thanks for the plug! There's a link to it on Amazon in my signature.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

Great book Peggie! Thanks for writing it.

[leftbrainstuff]

Twice a year for our PHII heads. We replace the joker and flapper valves and nothing else. The flapper valve always fails first. The weight detaches. The joker valves also leaf a little.

These heads are bullet proof but their design looks horrible. I dont even bother changing orings. We use vinegar twice a weak and good quality epdm black water hose.

No leaks, no smell.

[ErBrown]

Originally Posted by peghall

Disassembly for complete lubing however is Paramount.

No need to disassemble the pump to lube it. Buy a tube of SuperLube thick teflon (or silicon) grease...available from Ace Hardware for about $.6.95. Remove the 4 screws that hold the pump onto the base...lift the pump enough to stick nozzle on the tube of grease into it...give it a healthy squirt--about a tablespoon. Put the pump back onto the base, being careful not to overtighten screws 'cuz that can crack the pump and/or the base (and may be what cracks yours 'cuz I've never heard of muriatic acid doing any harm to any Raritan part before). Pump the toilet a couple of times spread the grease all ove the inside of the pump housing. You're good to go for at least several months...an entire season if you're just a "weekend warrior."

The SuperLube grease is also good for y-valves, seacocks, winches and any other moving part that that gets wet a lot.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

Howdy Peggie, probably a stupid question but...why not just remove the intake hose and squirt superlube into the intake?

Truly appreciate all the input.

[Bleemus]

Originally Posted by SV Sailfish

Great book Peggie! Thanks for writing it.

I agree. My wife will never let me remove it from the library. Not that I would want to . . .

[AJ_n_Audrey]

Originally Posted by FSMike

How often do I rebuild my composting head?
Well -------

Bingo. I am so happy that I replaced my standard marine head with a composting head.

[peghall]

If you run out of bookshelf space, Amazon also offers it as a Kindle edition.

And I do appreciate the plugs for it!

Peggie

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by peghall

[I]
FWIW, it may make a difference to mention WHICH Jabsco unit (model and style) you have.

The price of a replacement pump and the need to lubricate the pump should have made it obvious that it's a manual toilet (Jabsco only makes one). Electric macerating toilet pumps don't need any lubrication and cost a whole lot more.

Fair enough, for those who know there's only one model with prices like that. I didn't.

But my point was almost equally about brand condemnation versus specific model condemnation. Using toilets as an example, I often see posts where Brand X (Jabsco in this case) is apparently all bad, doesn't make or sell anything worth a crap (so to speak), to be avoided at all costs (even if minimal), etc...

Where the real story is that Brand X's Model YYY sucks.... but other stuff they make works fine.

Not meaning to defend Jabsco at all, just thinking that readers are often misled by the broad brush approach and the whole Jabsco product range seems to be one of the most likely targets of that kind of treatment.

-Chris

[Al B]

Perfect timing , Yesterday started install on a electric replacement pump
MODEL Jabsco Conversion pump 29200-0120
Motor was NG . Kicking breaker each time turned
Last week I asked a question about flushing waste holding tank since lines are off pump and got some good info
Yesterday I received my new pump . Not totally new, still in Jasbso box customer return too store . Ebay purchase
Missing a number of parts for bowl but pump is what I needed . No instructions but I don't need instructions WELL MAYBE
Great deal including bowl $ 170.00
Pump alone on ebay & amazon $ 325 - 550
Got too boat yesterday anxious too hear pump run . YEP RUNS
In box was one gasket . The gasket that went between base and pump
No Joker . Knowing I should replace joker but wanted too hear motor run
Everything was hand tightened so no cracks .
Did not let it run long time but water did not enter bowl had too use sink hose and fill . DO I HAVE TOO PRIME ? Or let pump work until it pumps water ?
Installed old joker
Connected base of pump too base of bowl with new gasket ,. 4 screws

Next Connected pump too waste pipe 2 screws . Did not over tighten ITS PLASTIC
At this point I was not sure if a gasket is required? Looks like there should be a gasket , has plastic nipples that would hold gasket in place like it did for base
Filled bowl with water from sink , flushed bowl leaking from connection
Getting late , went home will continue today
Stopped at West Marine surprised they had joker for my model
Should joker be the only source of gasket or do I need too make a gasket also ??

As usual thanks

[peghall]

It's not a stupid question...I came up with that idea about 10 years ago and learned that it doesn't work 'cuz most of the grease stays in the dry/flush housing.

Peggie

[lancelot9898]

I installed a Wilcox Skipper manual toilet($1000) around 20 years ago and I lived aboard full time during the first 5 years or so without any problem what so ever. After moving off the boat and using the boat seasonally I did experience a failure. I thought maybe getting the repair kit containing the joker, flapper and other parts would take care of the failure, but after examining the toilet, I found the failure to flush was caused by a broken metal part not contained in the rebuild kit. That part was something like $160 and I was about to just return the rebuild kit and just install a cheap new toilet until I located that metal part from someplace in CA for half the price. Repairs were made and it has operated fine ever since. However not to hijack the thread, there was one problem encountered just last week after having moved back to the boat full time and that is with the vented valve on the seawater intake line. I'll start another thread.