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Old 06-12-2021, 11:29   #1
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Hot water from the clarifier

Hi All, hoping you can help as this is driving me round the twist.

tldr:

Hot water pumping from engine but clarifier not getting hot..

I have a Volvo Penta 2003 that is salt water only cooled, has the Y inside the engine that diverts water across the head to the exhaust elbow. From now on I will call this the cold water side. There is the other channel that circulates water round the engine, thus it getting hot, to the exhaust. going to call this the Hot side.

The top of the engine there is a thermostat that opens about 60/70c. There is a pipe that goes from the upper thermostat housing to the exhaust elbow, this has a diverter valve in it so it sends hot water either to the clarifier or straight out the exhaust. The issue I have is the "cold" side seems to have more pressure than the "hot" side and stops the hot side from flowing. There is lots of water coming out the exhaust BTW, very heathy amount.

If I change the diverter to go straight to the exhaust the whole pipe gets hot indicating that the hot water is flowing to the exhaust elbow and out. When i change the direction to the clarifier it just stops flowing. I have had all the pipes off and cleared the clarifier so know its not blocked, I have proved this point by sucking warm salty water into my mouth.. yuck.

First I attempted to reduce the flow of the cold side by adding a plastic washer in the inlet to the exhaust elbow, to no effect, I don't want to comprise cooling the exhaust so wont reduce the diameter any more.

Next I have added an inline pump into the return from the clarifier and that does not have any effect either.

The Run from the top of the engine to the clarifier is about 3m. (6ish M round trip). There is no way to relocate the clarifier or increase the ID of the pipework.

Any suggestions would be amazing.
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Old 06-12-2021, 14:22   #2
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

Add valves, globe valve is better at controlling flow, in both circuits. With a temperature gun, monitor the exhaust temp near the exit. Reduce the flow to both circuits while maintaining a safe exhaust temp and normal engine temperature. It will take some balancing between the two circuits.



You can buy a temp gun on Amazon for $15-25 US.
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Old 06-12-2021, 20:19   #3
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

Just sayin'

CALORIFIER - a device to transfer heat from your engine to your water supply.
Clarifier - a settling tank or pond to remove solids from water by sedimentation.
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Old 07-12-2021, 04:36   #4
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

as an update, I ran the engine (at temp) with the return pipe off from the Calorifier and it was very weak, dribble coming out, then a gush and back to a dribble again.

I am going to break down the thermostat today and test it
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Old 07-12-2021, 05:52   #5
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

You might want to consider running a diluted brick cleaner fluid through the flute pipe in the head and then the same with the calorifier to remove deposits. Particularly the calorifier. You need a 12v cheap caravan portable water pump and some hoses, brick cleaner and a hour of your time.

I am planning to do mine over Christmas as a preventative measure.

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Old 07-12-2021, 07:16   #6
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

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You might want to consider running a diluted brick cleaner fluid through the flute pipe in the head and then the same with the calorifier to remove deposits. Particularly the calorifier. You need a 12v cheap caravan portable water pump and some hoses, brick cleaner and a hour of your time.

I am planning to do mine over Christmas as a preventative measure.

Pete
yep I already did that this summer for the calorifier but not sure how i would do it for the head or engine
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:34   #7
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

Remove thermostat and replace housing. Remove water feed pipe that goes from the raw water pump to cylinder head and connect a feed pipe with the caravan pump to this. Put pump in bucket with diluted brick cleaner.

Disconnect pipe that runs from cylinder head to exhaust elbow and fit back the other way around so a second pipe can be fitted to the end of this pipe. Lead second hose back to the bucket as the return line.

Switch on pump and wait an hour or so.

However, if you did this to the calorifier earlier this year and you are still having problems, then the issue could be in the pipes to and from, or the calorifier itself. Take it out, put it in the garden and get the garden hose on it and see what happens.

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Old 07-12-2021, 07:59   #8
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

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Remove thermostat and replace housing. Remove water feed pipe that goes from the raw water pump to cylinder head and connect a feed pipe with the caravan pump to this. Put pump in bucket with diluted brick cleaner.

Disconnect pipe that runs from cylinder head to exhaust elbow and fit back the other way around so a second pipe can be fitted to the end of this pipe. Lead second hose back to the bucket as the return line.

Switch on pump and wait an hour or so.

However, if you did this to the calorifier earlier this year and you are still having problems, then the issue could be in the pipes to and from, or the calorifier itself. Take it out, put it in the garden and get the garden hose on it and see what happens.

Pete

hmm nice idea, i think i can make that work.

Its not the pipes that lead too and from the calorifier I know that for sure..

I wonder if the lack of pressure on the "hot" side is due to partial blockage on the distribution pipe in the head.

I'm going to give your idea a go for sure and report back, remove the thermostat so I can cycle water round the "hot" side and just remove the two pipes that feed the exhaust elbow with water and put to a bucket... i like it thanks
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:06   #9
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

With the two pipes removed from the head, you ought to be able to see through the flute pipe in the head. If you can't then a 6mm piece of threaded rod can be used to start the cleaning out process. In theory the copper flute pipe could come out, but its been there for 30 plus years and your chances of getting it out without damage are not good. Note the manual pictures which show it has a right and a wrong way to fit in the head. The side spray holes should face the piston barrels.

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Old 07-12-2021, 08:07   #10
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

Oh, you might want to remove the anode as well if its new as the acid will certainly attack it.

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Old 07-12-2021, 10:08   #11
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

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Oh, you might want to remove the anode as well if its new as the acid will certainly attack it.

Pete
yep thanks, had the pump running for 10 min now and the water is already black.

The flow from the hot side is deffo weaker than the cold side

The anode didn't want come out so i'll pop a new one in
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Old 07-12-2021, 10:26   #12
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

Which are you doing first, the head or the calorifier?

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Old 07-12-2021, 10:32   #13
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

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Which are you doing first, the head or the calorifier?

Pete
the head, I know the calorifier is completely clear, had full pressure hose running through it in September.

The flow from the "hot" side has increased massively, its flowing very nicely now, not a tricle and gush just a good flow, after the hour is up i'll pop some new water and some more brick cleaner, run again and then after another hour i'll flush it completely with fresh water, but it back together tomorrow and test again..

30 mins in now....
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Old 07-12-2021, 10:42   #14
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

Excellent, now you are a seasoned professional fancy doing mine
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Old 07-12-2021, 11:03   #15
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Re: Hot water from the clarifier

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Excellent, now you are a seasoned professional fancy doing mine
I would but I am on the East Coast and you are on the South!

Its strange, this summer I did so much engine work, including new exhaust and rebuilt the water pump, new starter ect ect.. No idea the calorifier was going to be this much of a pain.
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