Holding Tank Pump

[RLewis]

Hi- here is a question for all those with more knowledge than I have.

I am nearing the point of purchase of a 35 Taiwan built boat. The holding tank appears to have plumbing from the head that through a valve position can be pumped directly through the hull or into the holding tank. The tank has a deck mounted clean out port and the tank itself has a manual pump (looks like a bilge pump style handle and assembly) that also appears that through the valve settings can be used to empty the tank overboard. Does this description sound like anything you have seen? Am I seeing this correctly? Is it a normal set up?
Also as this boat is a 1981 vintage- does any out there reccomend that its advisable to have the tank pumped out and then open the manual pump plate and either steam clean or pressure wash the inside of the tank to get back to original status and start fresh with all new hoses from the head to the valves and the holding tank?
Thanks for any/all adviced Randy

[jackdale]

That is pretty much a standard setup. One position of the Y valve is a direct discharge, the other is to a holding tank.

If there is no odor associated with the hoses they are probably fine.

Rinsing out the system with fresh water is a good idea.

If the are in US you need to pump out; overboard discharge is not permitted.

[rebel heart]

Meh, I'd leave it alone until you have problems. How it's been used and how you use it will make a big difference. In my experience a regularly used head has a year or three until you need to open it up and replace something.

Just flush a lot and make sure the vent(s) are unobstructed.

[RLewis]

Thanks JackDale- to expand a bit more. The head may need a rebuild kit on the manual valve which I feel should not a major issue and will no doubt be a learning opportunity for me. Part of me just wants to start with a "clean slate -tank" and also hoses as I have read that over time, (and these may orignal or close to it) the hoses build up from the inside and restrict flow. I have also heard that the hoses can be tough to replace although heating helps to soften the fitting process. Do I proceed? Or am I about to open something worse than a can of worms?
Thanks much Randy

[RLewis]

Eric tkanks for your input. I also just read tonight about your task of installing new and larger vents in your holding tank and to create cross venting. Did this work well? Have you eliminated all odors?

Also did you get my second question to you on your blog about the teak mounting block for the mooring cleat? If not I am happy to re-create and send to your blog agian- thanks Randy

[jackdale]

rebel heart has good advise.

A head rebuild is quite easy. But not necessary if everything is working. Carry a rebuild kit, just in case.

Where are you? In fresh water or salt water?

[svfinlandia]

Originally Posted by RLewis

Hi- here is a question for all those with more knowledge than I have.

I am nearing the point of purchase of a 35 Taiwan built boat. The holding tank appears to have plumbing from the head that through a valve position can be pumped directly through the hull or into the holding tank. The tank has a deck mounted clean out port and the tank itself has a manual pump (looks like a bilge pump style handle and assembly) that also appears that through the valve settings can be used to empty the tank overboard. Does this description sound like anything you have seen? Am I seeing this correctly? Is it a normal set up?
Also as this boat is a 1981 vintage- does any out there reccomend that its advisable to have the tank pumped out and then open the manual pump plate and either steam clean or pressure wash the inside of the tank to get back to original status and start fresh with all new hoses from the head to the valves and the holding tank?
Thanks for any/all adviced Randy

You have a perfectly normal setup for an off-shore cruising vessel. The "Y" valve and manual pump allows you to pump out the holding tank while out in the open ocean more than X miles off shore. Inside that limit you are required to have the valve locked in the position which will only allow it to be pumped out through the deck port by a marina pump out station.

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by RLewis

Eric tkanks for your input. I also just read tonight about your task of installing new and larger vents in your holding tank and to create cross venting. Did this work well? Have you eliminated all odors?

Also did you get my second question to you on your blog about the teak mounting block for the mooring cleat? If not I am happy to re-create and send to your blog agian- thanks Randy

I actually put in a tiny holding tank and put it up against a bulkhead, so my venting situation got a lot easier. The vent line is now maybe 4" long and is working fine. No more odors. The bigger issue I'm having now is a busted (1 month old) seacock, but that's more of a fluke (I hope).

Haven't fully replied to that one about the block. I started drawing it out and got sucked into boat project land. I'm good for it I swear.

[RLewis]

Located in salt water - Puget Sound and will stay in the same.
Does it make sense that I could repeadly fill the holding tank and go sail or motor to "agitate" the volume of liquid and then pump out and repeat? I just have visions of massive amounts of sludge build up and the need to rinse it out thoroughly. Thanks

[RLewis]

Eric- thanks I no your busy so when you have time- I appreciat and value the info !!

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by RLewis

Located in salt water - Puget Sound and will stay in the same.
Does it make sense that I could repeadly fill the holding tank and go sail or motor to "agitate" the volume of liquid and then pump out and repeat? I just have visions of massive amounts of sludge build up and the need to rinse it out thoroughly. Thanks

The "real" build up you won't be able to remove except via physical means like smacking the hoses against a dock or knocking stuff loose from the inside. I really wouldn't sweat it that hard. Sounds like a standard set up and swapping out joker valves and 1 1/2" discharge hose is a somewhat regular maintenance item.

[RLewis]

Perfect- thanks to you all for the information- this forum is such a great place to learn- a result of all of you being so willing to help.
Randy

[DeepFrz]

What kind of toilet is it? On some toilets it is almost as cheap to replace the pump as it is to buy a rebuild kit. Check that out for your specific model.

[jackdale]

If your holding tank has an inspection port, take a look inside too see if there is accumulated sludge.

When you do pump out, fill it with fresh water (stick a fresh water hose in the pump out) and empty it again.

[HopCar]

If you decide to replace the hoses consider using Raritan Sani-Flex hose. It's very flexible which makes it easier to install.
Raritan SANI-FLEX Odor Shield Hose is super flexible to make installation easy. Five year warranty against odor bleed through. Made from high quality buytl rubber.

Raritan SANI-FLEX Odor Shield Hose 1-1/2"