Frigoboat Help

[seanicroute]

Hello,

We have a FRIGOBOAT (new to us, bought a used boat) K50F with Spillover system. We have the coastal mark 2 displays. The Freezer display just went from the temperature, to show "d0F" automatically. we are not sure what that means, nor do the instructions show this as an error code. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Richard Kollmann]

The first thing I would try is to eliminate the Costal Mark 2. If you can get to the back of Mark 2 Disconnect wires connected to terminals 8 and 9. Now connect these two wires together. If compressor runs let it run for one hour to see that every thing else is OK. You can now use refrigerator by turning refrigerator circuit breaker off and on.

If Mark 2 is the problem it can be reset by
A General Reset should only be used as an emergency measure if the programming becomes corrupted. This action will
return all settings to the original factory defaults. It will then be required to reinstall the Coastal values as shown in (11).
1. Press Set for 8 seconds. “0” is shown on display. Press Set again, “CON” is displayed.
2. Press DOWN arrow. Display shows “Ini”. Press Set “Hor” is displayed.. Press UP arrow until “HO” is displayed
3. Press Set; “O” is displayed and flashes. Press Set for 8 seconds and general reset is activated.

[seanicroute]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

The first thing I would try is to eliminate the Costal Mark 2. If you can get to the back of Mark 2 Disconnect wires connected to terminals 8 and 9. Now connect these two wires together. If compressor runs let it run for one hour to see that every thing else is OK. You can now use refrigerator by turning refrigerator circuit breaker off and on.

If Mark 2 is the problem it can be reset by
A General Reset should only be used as an emergency measure if the programming becomes corrupted. This action will
return all settings to the original factory defaults. It will then be required to reinstall the Coastal values as shown in (11).
1. Press Set for 8 seconds. “0” is shown on display. Press Set again, “CON” is displayed.
2. Press DOWN arrow. Display shows “Ini”. Press Set “Hor” is displayed.. Press UP arrow until “HO” is displayed
3. Press Set; “O” is displayed and flashes. Press Set for 8 seconds and general reset is activated.

Ok thanks. Any idea what d0F may stand for?

[seanicroute]

Originally Posted by seanicroute

Ok thanks. Any idea what d0F may stand for?

Also, it has a merlin board, and is now running at speed 1 (1 flash only) without speeding up...

[seanicroute]

Originally Posted by seanicroute

Hello,

We have a FRIGOBOAT (new to us, bought a used boat) K50F with Spillover system. We have the coastal mark 2 displays. The Freezer display just went from the temperature, to show "d0F" automatically. we are not sure what that means, nor do the instructions show this as an error code. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Ok I came across an obscure document that was not provided to me;

Here are some codes for future reference should anyone run into them:

Err Memory Reading Error
ERP1 Probe Error (check wiring or replace probe)
Eri Internal Parameter Error (factory default programming)
ALH High Temperature Alarm
ALL Low Temperature Alarm
ooo Open Probe Error --- Short Circuited Probe Error
DON Defrosting Activated
DOF Defrosting Finished
CON Continuous Cold Cycle Activated
COF Continuous Cold Cycle Finished
-d- Defrosting Cycle

...makes me wonder why the unit "defrosted itself" to begin with...

Hope this will help someone out in the future

[Anna Sail]

The Coastal MKII thermostat/thermometers are sold pre-programmed for refrigeration (as verses the factory default which is for heat). It would appear someone accidentally hit the re-program button on your unit to trigger the defrost function. If you have done a general reset, you will need to reprogram the unit to function as you need it to. See the attached file to find the instructions.

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by seanicroute

Also, it has a merlin board, and is now running at speed 1 (1 flash only) without speeding up...

If it is not the Mark 2 then it could be the Merlin plug and play board. If this Merlin board is being confused by Mark 2 thermostat cycling very fast it can cause Merlin to hold rpm to 2000 one green LED flash. If you remove the thermostat two wires from the face of Merlin plate and place a jumper across these two merlin terminals compressor will run continuously and continue to increase speed. When light begins to flash 6 times compressor is at max speed. When at max speed turn off power to refrigerator and wait for a while before turning from it back on. Without interference form Mark 2 thermostat, Merlin increases rpm, cycling power off will temperately reduce rpm.

[spiv]

Hello there!

I have a keel cooled Frigoboat with a W35F compressor and original water pump.
The unit runs well, actually would freeze the whole box if I set it too low.
I just use it as a fridge with the small ice box just freezing.

It seems to me that the water pump runs all the time that the compressor runs, is that correct?
I would have expected that it only run when the compressor needed cooling.
It's only 15~18 c here at the moment.
It a fair waste of electricity to run that big water pump....

Thank you for replying, and....

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by spiv

Hello there!

I have a keel cooled Frigoboat with a W35F compressor and original water pump.
The unit runs well, actually would freeze the whole box if I set it too low.
I just use it as a fridge with the small ice box just freezing.

It seems to me that the water pump runs all the time that the compressor runs, is that correct?
I would have expected that it only run when the compressor needed cooling.
It's only 15~18 c here at the moment.
It a fair waste of electricity to run that big water pump....

Thank you for replying, and....

The W35F normally would not have a Keel cooler also. Are you sure you have a keel cooler block under the boat? Frigoboat's water pump is small and has a low noise level. And yes pump must run only when compressor runs. Is it possible that that pump can also run when something else runs like an AC unit. The only way you will know if the pump is wasting energy is if it is drawing more than 3/4 of an amp.

If it is true this system has both keel cooler condenser and water cooled condenser you may not need pumped water cooling most of the time. But do not turn off pump tell it is confirmed the keel cooler is functioning correctly.

[spiv]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

The W35F normally would not have a Keel cooler also. Are you sure you have a keel cooler block under the boat? ..............
The only way you will know if the pump is wasting energy is if it is drawing more than 3/4 of an amp.

Hi Richard, thank you for taking the time to answer me.
No, I do not have an external unit, I only have the water pump. I thought that was what people referred to as 'keel cooler'..... now I understand.

Every time I open the fridge door, the compressor and water pump start and stay on for quite a while (I have not timed it yet).
Is it because the thermostat is in the wrong spot?
I read that the sensor should be on the evaporator.

Should I attempt to move to the right position?

[Richard Kollmann]

Mechanical Thermostats for refrigerators are sold in different temperature ranges designed for Coolers, Refrigerators, and Freezers. They may control evaporator temperature or the total area temperature. The difference between controlling evaporator temperature and area temperature is in both temperature range and off cycle rest time (Hysteresis time between compressor stop and restart) From the picture it apears the design engineer engineer felt this unit required a zone area thermostat rather than an evaporator thermostat.

I would not recommend moving thermostat sense bulb that cycles compressor on less than 5 degree F over to evaporator that needs a 20 degree off on cycle. It also will not have a low enough temperature range. Be satisfied with thermostat if desired box temp is controlled OK.

If you want more on boat thermostats click this link
Kollmann Marine

[Anna Sail]

Your thermostat sensor is okay where it's located, it's designed to sense the air temperature in your box as verse the plate temperature, as Richard explained.

However, your evaporator really should have a door on it, to keep the cold air inside the bent area instead of "falling" out (cold air drops, warm air rises). It appears you have a front opening box, which means you lose a uniform amount of air each time you open your box (as verses a top opening box where most of the cold air is still sitting on the bottom when you open the lid). In that way the area inside the bent plate will have freezing temps, and the area outside will have refer temps. It may also address that dripping water I see on the top of your plate, which implies your system is short-cycling or having a hard time reaching your set point.

If you're using this as a refrigerator only, then this could make little difference, although it appears you have the thermostat set at 0 degrees Celsius, (or -30 degrees C) however it's hard to see in your picture. Either way, that's a freezing temperature in my book.

Yes, your pump should cycle off with the compressor. Check that it is wired correctly to the compressor's control module, and that when your compressor cycles off, the pump turns off. It also could be that your compressor doesn't cycle off because it's having a hard time reaching your set point.

[spiv]

Richard and Anna,
The two of you are amongst the most helpful people on this forum, constantly, freely, sharing your knowledge with fellow cruisers, thanks!!

Apologies for not having provided more info originally.
My boat is a 2003 Lagoon 380.
The fridge was moulded in at birth, so I suspect the condenser, compressor and pump are original.
The boat has been in charter since new, I just bought it and I am turning her into a liveaboard.
The picture shows that the thermostat is not the original, or it has been shifted by the service manager and by the patched- up holes not in the original position.

Also, there are no signs of a door ever been in front of the condenser and the condenser is about 150mm from the back wall.
The drops visible in the pic are actual ice (I left the door ajar a few days ago). At this thermostat setting, I found a bit of frozen water in a plastic container at the bottom of the fridge.
Do I have to fabricate a door or can I find a retrofit one?
What about the back of the condenser? Should I try to reposition it backwards?

[Richard Kollmann]

Many small ice box conversion evaporators were not intended to be closed up with a door. When a box is not suited for correct size surface area evaporator these circular evaporator are the answer.

You can place something over opening like duct tape in order to see how actual box temperature and power usage reacts. My guess would be you will need to set thermostat to a colder higher energy consumption setting.

[Anna Sail]

Your thermostat is set at -5C (23F). Your sensor is at the very top of your box, sensing where the warmer temps would be. You're limited on how far you can move it to the mid point to measure the average temp in your box, but you could at least bring it down a wee bit.

If you just want to use your box as a fridge, then I would suggest not setting the thermostat at freezer temps. Your compressor would then not have to run for so long as it will meet the set point sooner.

A test door for the evaporator could be a piece of cardboard with a bungie cord run through the evaporator, around the back plate and back to the front, attached to either side of your cardboard should do the job, to see if a door makes a difference in your application. Much cleaner than gumming things up with duct tape.