Frigoboat Compressor Shuts Down

[mlwilmore]

Hello, this is my first posting and I am excited to be part of this community! We have a new (to us) 1985 Passport 40 with a 8 year old K50 SSC Frigoboat Freezer system. The boat has been on the hard on the Chesapeake Bay since October while she's been getting some work done. During that time, we've lived on it a few weeks at a time, with the freezer turned on while plugged in to AC power.

Several weeks ago, the Freezer shut off and we saw the LED flashing three times, indicating per the manual, "Compressor non-start". We wait 5 minutes and then restart. On restart, the system runs for anywhere from 10 minutes to a half hour and then shuts down with the 3 blinking lights. The compressor is also hot to the touch. We left the system off overnight and restarted it successfully.

A week later, we put the boat in the water, and had her connected to Shore Power. The Frigoboat ran fine for 3 days, but one night we noticed the Danfoss BD50 compressor running very loud. That morning, the system shut off with the 3 blinking lights. Again, it will restart for 5-30 minutes then shut down again.

We got on the forums and checked the voltage (which seemed to be fine). We checked all connections and they seemed fine as well. The next morning we were able to restart.

2 weeks later, she's back out of the water (for more unrelated work) and the Frigoboat is acting up again. We have a hose dripping water on her Keel Cooler and she's plugged into Shore Power. Again, the compressor will start for 5 - 30 minutes. The freezer seems to cool, but then the compressor shuts down. This time an overnight rest hasn't helped and we are on day 3 with the problem.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions on troubleshooting!

[djmarchand]

The Frigoboat system is very sensitive to low voltage. Even though you may have measured the voltage at the compressor terminals and it may have been running at the time, the compressor draws more current than running for a fraction of a second to start. If it sees any less than about 12V it won't start. I know that the manual says less, but that is my experience.

Frigoboat recommends a dedicated circuit breaker and 10 gauge wire to avoid this problem. Also your batteries have to be well charged, but if it happened on shore power then presumably they were.

Check the wire and if less than 10 gauge I would recommend increasing it. Also check all connections between the Danfoss compressor terminals and the power source.

David

[Richard Kollmann]

Frigoboat warns about using keel coolers without adequate cooling. There is a chance you may have destroyed the complete system with thick sludge. Frigoboat has a add on Fan cooled condenser designed to improve compressor cooling in very warm seawater or when boat is on the Hard.
A three LED code indicates an overload associated with high pressure over 130 psi. Has anyone tampered with refrigerant sense new?
Do not run unit unless keel cooler is kept cool.
If you can get unit running check amperage every few minutes If amperage is above 7 amps stop compressor.
If problem continues contact Rob at Frigoboat US as he may by now have a solution to this type problem with keel cooler systems.

[mlwilmore]

Thank you David and Richard. We won't attempt any testing until we are back in the water next week and the keel unit cool. Then we'll test the amperage. We'll also check with the prior owner to see if the refrigerant has been tampered with.

[barboak]

I do believe Frigiboat is in Annapolis, Coastal Climate Control 301-352-5738 and have had good luck getting advice on the phone from them there. With most of our time spent in the Caribbean our unit has worked well and efficiently with only a few hiccups which we were able to solve. Good luck

[Scott Berg]

You've received good advice; note that low voltage is 4 flashes on a Danfoss unit, 3 is, as Richard said, a restart error caused by high pressure. Frigoboat is no more or less sensitive to low voltage than any other Danfoss DB** compressor based system. As already noted, a Keel Cooler unit (anyone's) should never be used on the hard. For that purpose several vendors make units that with alternative air cooling for such a purpose. Splash her, turn her on, monitor the current draw @ full speed (3500 RPM). Should be 6.7a per Danfoss; over 7 is a problem...

[sailr69]

I have a DB danvoss compressor in my garage that was working well when I removed it. It was used as a air-cooled unit. I can offer it to you fre-gratis if you need one. no idea if it will still work after 4 years. it is not charged

[Richard Kollmann]

Mlwilmore, Mistakes have happened when troubleshooting these Danfoss powered small systems in the past so the best approach is to stay safe by doing tests that are non destructive. LED trouble codes can produce false warnings. One LED flash is a voltage spike, two flashes will not apply on your unit as it indicates the fan circuit is overloaded. A Three LED flash can be misleading. For a better understanding of Danfoss BD troubleshooting codes see TECH TIP #2 on my web site.

I have seen more than one boater spend two to four thousand dollars making thing worse by experimenting to find problem that had a simple electrical solution or a much more difficult refrigerant flow problem. Frigoboat, Adler Barbour and E Z Kold units each have their own Design problems that baffle most Refrigerant service technicians. The first mistake made is to connect servicing gauges to a Danfoss BD delicate small system.
If compressor stops or will not start up it is being told not to run electrically by its control module. If compressor runs with little or no cooling then there is a refrigerant flow problem or a refrigerant quantity question.

If it is possible on your unit to obtain amperage readings over several minutes running before compressor stops the question then is problem refrigeration unit or electrical control?
I picked 7 amps maximum as slightly higher than normal condition. Not knowing climate and box heat load conditions 10 to 12 amps might be ok especially it the ammeter is off somewhat.

[mlwilmore]

Thank you everyone for some great troubleshooting ideas and even a compressor! The generosity of ideas on this forum is incredible. I hope to have the boat in the water mid next week and first thing, I'll test the amperage. Usually the compressor will run at least 5 minutes and frequently up to 30, so I should be able to get readings. If I see an increase, I'll shut it down and be reporting back here. I've also just met the local certified Frigoboat technician. He lives right in town, so I will make a call if needed, before potentially making an even more expensive mistake.

[Richard Kollmann]

mlwilmore, Certified mechanic is what I warned you about as I consider it to be Creative Advertising. Twenty dollars and answering 25 questions on refrigerants and the environment will get anyone certified. Experience with Frigoboat keel cooler systems covered on this forum in the past should prove to you the necessity to define problem before proceeding with any action involving refrigerant in system.