Frig Box Seals

[sailorboy1]

My freezer is just icing up too much in my mind, this even though it hasn't been opened in days to let in moisture.

So I am thinking maybe time for new seals. When I compare the boats frig seals to my land based one the boat ones just seem to be stiff hard semi-rubber things that can not be expected to ready seal anything in a non-perfect world. But on the other hand the land based frig has nice flexible seals that has the ability to conform etc.

Seems instead of buying new boat box seals it would be better to go get some regular land based seals?

What experience and advise from CF massive knowledge base?

[skipmac]

Get a seal that seals. Ignore the label whether it says marine, land, aviation or outer space rated.

I went to Home Depot and they had a large assortment of flexible rubber, foam, and other types of seals, weather stripping and such in various widths and thicknesses. Most were cheap and peal and stick installation so very easy to try several and choose the one that works best.

[Hudson Force]

I've used the "Skipmac" plan for years,- nice supple seals from Home Depot, but I lose their effective quality at the corners where I've tried to match the cut ends in various ways. I'll be following ideas here and looking for, not only the best seals, but how to cut the corners.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

I've used the "Skipmac" plan for years,- nice supple seals from Home Depot, but I lose their effective quality at the corners where I've tried to match the cut ends in various ways. I'll be following ideas here and looking for, not only the best seals, but how to cut the corners.

Oh gee. Guess it's now time to fess up. All my advise here is purely theoretical since I just hooked up my new refer last week. So far I just put in a couple of temp seals to test the system so have not yet done the final seal install.

I have a couple of ideas in mind that I will try and see which works best. First I plan on using a soft rubber seal that is made of two parallel, hollow rubber tubes attached to a common base, sort of like wire insulation without the wire, with a gap in between the two tubes. Cross section kind of like this . o o

The hollow in the tube makes it very flexible and compressible so hoping that will give a good seal and take care of any minor surface imperfections. Plan A is to put two strips (two tubes on each strip) of these facing each other (one on the edge of the lid facing down, the other on the box edge facing up) and slightly offset so the two rows interlock when the lid is closed.

On the corner I was going to do a test with two small wood blocks and try a couple of ideas. First idea; make a 45 degree picture frame joint, again interlocking the top and bottom. Second to alternate flat ends, like a brick pattern.

Will report back on how it works.

[undercutter]

Tried to replace fridge seals and couldn't find anything thin enough on the market to work on our CT 56. Doors are recessed into counter top and bottom side of hinged edge tears, crushes seal material due to tight clearances. Even with a seal thickness of less than 3/32" the door/hatch won't close properly. Almost seems like it was built with no seals at all originally.

Fridges work great and we can make ice by the bucket but have to defrost every 2 months.

Made in Taiwan (China)

[olepedersen]

every 2month you dont say... 2trays a day.. wished mine was that good.

ole

[sailrj]

Have used the double seal that Skipmac presents for over a year and it has worked great. Prior to installing the seal, had condensation all the way around the lid and that is gone. Cut the corners on a 45 and they fit tight. Good luck.

[Celestialsailor]

When I designed my box, I made sure I had a wide landing for the seal...2" and 3/16" close cell foam (that's important). If you want to know if it's leaking, buy a new or used infra red temp. gun. that will tell you where the trouble is. Mine has been running over a year now. I have never defrosted it. Maybe that tells you something.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by skipmac

.................. On the corner I was going to do a test with two small wood blocks and try a couple of ideas. First idea; make a 45 degree picture frame joint, again interlocking the top and bottom. Second to alternate flat ends, like a brick pattern.

Will report back on how it works.

I'm using the 45 degree "picture frame" joint after earllier using the "butt joint" plan. I'm also just using the seal attached to the lid and not the top of the frig/freezer cabinet. I defrost about once every two months and I do have cooler temps at the outside of the corners compared to the straight-aways. My lids are raised by leveraging them up upon their edges without any type of hinge; therefore I'm pressing and rocking the weight of the lid agaisnt the seal with each opening. My seals are satisfactory, but they could be better.

[sailorboy1]

would think this is a common issue and there would be more input

As a quick "fix" the other day I put some of that rolled foam weather seals on the edges. This made it so the lid doesn't sit quirte flat, but was nice because it made it pretty easy to see where the seal hits. But it still iced up and I'm going to try the same on the front opening door part.

I have a rubber drain plug, I wonder if it is possible that doesn't seal well and moisture is getting pulled up from the drain line?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by sailrj

Have used the double seal that Skipmac presents for over a year and it has worked great. Prior to installing the seal, had condensation all the way around the lid and that is gone. Cut the corners on a 45 and they fit tight. Good luck.

That's very good to hear. Sounds like my theory may actually work in practice.

Thanks

[tamicatana]

Originally Posted by Don L

I have a rubber drain plug, I wonder if it is possible that doesn't seal well and moisture is getting pulled up from the drain line?

Yes, that, and if it doesn't seal, cold 'drains' out of it as well.

reefer tips from The Boat Galley
Boat Refrigeration

[Hudson Force]

I was inspired by this thread to research some online gasket opportunities and noticed that there are some available that will fabricate the molded corners by your specifications.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

I was inspired by this thread to research some online gasket opportunities and noticed that there are some available that will fabricate the molded corners by your specifications.

Cut a picture frame 45 and bond the corners with contact cement.

They make lots of other adhesives for bonding rubber, but contact cement works great and is easy to use.

[Tim R.]

Just did this very job. I had to first remove the closed cell foam type seals which were a PITA to remove. My wife spent hours removing them because they self destruct and leave the tape behind. I used rubber "D" profile tape that comes in a double width roll that I bought from the local Ace HW store.

Our lids are recessed to form a flush counter-top. I applied strips of laminate to the horizontal wood surface where the seals contact so as to keep it neater looking and easier to clean. I also only applied the weatherstripping to the lid side again to keep the icebox sealing surface easy to clean.