Fridge troubleshooting - advice requested

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

You must be careful when installing a larger filter dryer than the manufacture of system used. The system in this thread with a normal size evaporator contains around three ounces of refrigerant by weight. If a filter dryer the size of a beer can were used as a replacement on this system it would trap oil and lengthen time it takes to equal pressure differential before re-starting compressor. There are recommended larger filter dryers for these small systems and when used are mounted vertical with refrigerant flow indicator pointed down.

I was referring to a small beer can (Venezuelan - Polar) couldn't think of any other obviously recognisable size. You are correct there are orientation arrows on the case.

[OzeLouie]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

It is almost certainly the drier. Get someone to fit a bigger one, the standard ones are inadequate (CO2 cylinder size). I had same problem with my freezer after 8 years, fitted a small beer can size drier used in air con units 12 years ago. Same with fridge after 12 years that was 8 years ago. The pre-charged ones are probably only good for a new system yours already has a problem so needs to be evacuated. Make sure that the system is evacuated properly. Leave the vacuum pump running for at least 24 hours. Better still get the tech to start it on Friday evening and come on Monday morning to recharge. Don't over charge the pressures are stated but you need to check the runs from the compressor to the compartment to make sure they are not freezing up

I agree Tupaia. Considering the OP is convinced the comp is running but not refrigerating except when left to thaw, this system is blocking / restricted. And agree with your comments regards so called 'filter dryer' . Unlike a proper Filter-Dryer which has a felt pad, most of those spun copper things are NOT filters they are strainer- dryers at best and do little to prevent gunk entering and restricting the capillary or TX valve orifice. These cheap spun copper strainer - dryers should not be used on these micro systems.

Below: This picture is of a restricted 0.66mm ID capillary. The restriction material forms like a thick interior coating (see exit to evap) and is the result of gunk formed as the molecular sieve beads rub together forming a paste that is not contained. Like a moisture block this gunk tends to move on when thawed albeit slower.


Below: Best to use a proper 1/4" flare Filter Dryer like the Sporlan 032 or 052 located vertically exit bottom before the capillary or TEV.

[BoatBumm]

I strongly second the suggestion to contact Coastal Climate Control. I bought my Frigoboat system from them. I did a lot of research prior to the purchase. I met their resident expert at one of the Annapolis Boat Shows. And had a few questions during the install process. I’ve always been VERY impressed with his level of knowledge and helpfulness in solving problems. I wish I had his name to give you, but if you just call them I’m sure they’ll connect you.

[TabbyCat]

Originally Posted by chris in SG

Does anyone recognize the symptoms or can anyone explain how the fridge was able to recover and function perfectly for a month without any action apart from resting it for one week?

Mine did something similar. Do you have a holding plate or an evaporator? My holding plate in the fridge kinda swelled up-I replaced it with the evaporater. Also note that there is a little filter in the copper lines leading to your holding plate/evaporator. If that becomes plugged, it reduces flow to the unit, and cooling stops. Sometimes switching off, letting rest, and restarting can unplug that. Or replace the filter/lines. The folks at Frigoboat told me the most common error to make is to allow a technician to add refrigerant to your system. Their refrigerant may introduce the very contaminants that plugs up the filter. (Which I made the mistake of doing, so that's how I ended up replacing my entire system). Frigoboat components come pre-pressured, and so should not ever need refrigerant added. They are plug and play/DIY, so it was easy to install the new system. Warning: replacing only some parts of a old system can be troublesome, since if you have contaminants in the old compressor and then put in a new evaporator, the old compressor can ruin the new evaporator.

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by BoatBumm

I strongly second the suggestion to contact Coastal Climate Control.

The OP is in the Philippines.

[bateaubonsai1]

Hi all , I second Dougtiff, my system was showing similar problems, it turned out to be a weak connection behind a bulkhead. As the connection would heat up , my compressor would drop of line but not my fan , any how , looking at all connection doesn't cost much, just a bit of time , Cheers !

[Peeew]

My similar problem turned out to be a rare low voltage that occurred when something was drawing down voltage at the same time the compressor started up. Just coincidence that I was using inverter or power winch at just that moment I eventually figured it out and if it happens I turn the fridge off for a minute and then back on. Seems to solve my issue.

[chris in SG]

This has been very informative. When I originally invited a technician to take a look, I was disappointed he didn't bring a set of gauges and hoses and a can of refrigerant. I now realize that this probably just as well.

I have studied the Coastal Climate docs from the link someone kindly provided and I noted the attached schematic with advice about the vertical orientation of the capillary/liquid line soldered join. I don't recall this advice when I originally installed the system and, sure enough, the orientation of my coiled excess copper pipe was far from ideal. I have now gently re-bent the pipe so that the capillary orifice (see Note A) is pointing downwards. Since then the fridge has remained consistently cool and the compressor is running and resting as normal.

This may have solved my problem for now (contaminants?) but several of the posts suggest that I should not allow the fridge to continue running without removing contaminants and/or moisture. I think other posts are suggesting it's better not to allow anyone to fiddle with it. I still find this a bit of a dilemma.

[Coolerking]

If its working then leave it alone.

[dfelsent]

I had frigiboat issues where after some time the hissing at the capillary entrance to the clod plate would stop. Warming it up would get it going again for a bit. I added the coastal climate control dryer, mounted correctly, and the problem has now been gone for two years.
I did do the led check on the compressor first, but it showed no faults.
The pre-charged dryer was very easy to install worked for me.

[OzeLouie]

Originally Posted by Tupaia

The OP is in the Philippines.

And there in lies another problem. Finding a competent fridgie is difficult in developing countries. (Everyone knows a tech, if they can see a dollar in it!!)

One cruiser in the Philippines phoned me with a local 'fridgie working on his system. When tech was advised to now connect the vacuum pump, he asked "what is vacuum pump"!

Suggest seeking recommendation from other cruisers locally or the system manufacturer. (But if in Carmon Cebu then the guys at Zeeks are helpful). In these remote situations we encourage phone contact with local tech where often we can support them, before they do anything otherwise like CK says 'best to leave it alone' as they can do irreparable damage.

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by chris in SG

This has been very informative. When I originally invited a technician to take a look, I was disappointed he didn't bring a set of gauges and hoses and a can of refrigerant. I now realize that this probably just as well.

I have studied the Coastal Climate docs from the link someone kindly provided and I noted the attached schematic with advice about the vertical orientation of the capillary/liquid line soldered join. I don't recall this advice when I originally installed the system and, sure enough, the orientation of my coiled excess copper pipe was far from ideal. I have now gently re-bent the pipe so that the capillary orifice (see Note A) is pointing downwards. Since then the fridge has remained consistently cool and the compressor is running and resting as normal.

This may have solved my problem for now (contaminants?) but several of the posts suggest that I should not allow the fridge to continue running without removing contaminants and/or moisture. I think other posts are suggesting it's better not to allow anyone to fiddle with it. I still find this a bit of a dilemma.

If you can get your hands on a vacuum pump you could try just evacuating the system and vacuuming it down for a couple of hours. If the problem is moisture it will evaporate and be drawn out of the system without opening it and a regas with uncontaminated refrigerant will fix the problem. If it reoccurs you will confirm that moisture is being drawn into the system somewhere, the most probable culprit being the connectors. At that point when the system needs to be opened to permanently fix the problem I would get rid of the connectors and join the tubing with a silver soldered connection.

[Richard Kollmann]

Chris advice given you here is only going in circles. I can not see where you confirmed that blockage moisture or other thick material was confirmed as the problem, my post #17. If it is confirmed to be moisture blockage will be intermittent if compressor is left running.

If confirmed to be moisture then RaymondR post #42 is pointing you to the correct solution dehydration with a good refrigerant vacuum pump. Unfortunately this compressor has POE oil that will refuse to allow moisture to boil to a vapor to be dehydrated at temperatures below 100 degree F. I recommend supper dehydration warming complete system to 100 degrees F including evaporator while vacuuming for at least four hours. Some believe at standard day temp 24 hours with pump running is good enough. If you can valve off pump with full vacuum system can be leak tested if, full vacuum holds for an hour. With moisture super Dehydration only there is no need to replace filter dryer.

[RaymondR]

Hi Richard,

A question. Could you run the compressor with low vacuum on the system and would this help in pulling the water out of the oil?

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

Hi Richard,

A question. Could you run the compressor with low vacuum on the system and would this help in pulling the water out of the oil?

No, you can not unlock liquid moisture from POE Ester oil the ways we did for years with Mineral refrigerant compressor oil and Alkabenzine oils by several dryer replacements. If you search this problem on the web you will find some who say water droplets in POE oil can not be removed. Thirty inches of vacuum reading on a refrigerant gauge at 70 degrees F or cooler is not likely going to boil moisture into a vapor that can be extracted by a pump. Experience shows that super dehydration using a additional Micron gauge drawing vacuum below 200 micron will vaporize moisture from POE oil. One inch of vacuum equals 12,000 microns. At 200 micron and complete system temperature at 100 degrees F for 4 hours on small systems I am successful in getting all moisture out. Most refrigerant two stage vacuum pumps claim low vacuum of 25 to 50 micron but I have never seen readings below 100 micron. Without seeing micron gauge readings you can see why some techs leave pump running 24 hours. With a system much below 70 degrees it is going to be dificult to remove moisture.