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Old 24-11-2014, 08:29   #1
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Fresh water pump pressure question

Hey y'all so our fresh water pump is leaking a small amount while it is running and we need to replace or fix it. I have a new spare pump same manufacturer (shurflo) only thing it has a higher rated output. It is actually a freshwater wash down pump but looks exactly the same as the house water pump. The house pump is a 5gpm output and the spare is a 9gpm. Do I need to worry about the increased flow/pressure on my house system with the stronger pump. I think I can probably fix the old one just want something in the meantime.

Thanks in advance for any advice

Will
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Old 24-11-2014, 08:36   #2
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

The GPM Difference is not important. The pressure should be somewhere close. If there is a pressure switch on the old pump you should use that same switch on the replacement pump. Mac
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Old 24-11-2014, 12:15   #3
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

Do you have an accumulator to provide a pressurized system from tap turn on? This will provide constant flow even though your changeover pump might turn on and off more than you would expect. You can't swappumps if the new one doesn' t have a pressure switch; it won't turn off .
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Old 25-11-2014, 16:59   #4
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

The Shureflo pumps are specially made for your watermaker We also tried to find a cheaper replacement.



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Old 25-11-2014, 17:19   #5
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

You don't probably don't need to worry. The spare pump just has a higher volume. It's probably a better pump. Whatever your plumbing is made from, it should be able handle a good range of pressures but there is probably not going to be much difference in the 2 pumps, pressure wise.
Lucky you, I have no spare working water pumps right now.
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Old 25-11-2014, 18:47   #6
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

I did not read your question well but here is the correct answer. Washdownpumps works on higher pressure. And also gives more volume. Volume is no problem but at what pressure switches it off ?? There is probably a pressureswitch on both. Most time you can interchange this. Small square little box 1"x1" on the pump on the pumpside with two wires to a connectionbox with the feedwires.
You probably can use the washdown pump but look carefully at your hoseconnections and other equipment. Listen for running after closing your taps.
Is there pressure equalizer in the system ?? ( this prevents older pumps switching on and off all time. It looks like a small gasbottle. There is a fleece in between the upper and lower half that can be damaged with too high pressure. Newer pumps work with variable rpm's and dont need this equipment.
Is there a high pressure overflow-switch on your hot waterboiler. ? This can also starts working on high pressure and let all your freshwater in the bilge. Normally you can look up all the figures of these pumps on the internet . All look ( and basically) are the same ( membrane) but have different specs ( bilgepump fi no pressureswitch, freshwater ( variable rpm) , washdown ( high pressure) , circulatingpumps. (Low energy use)
Be carefull if you dissemble the pumphead. Donnot pull out the connection bolts for changing the membrane. You damage the seals for the bolts then You can buy complete pumpheads. To disconnect from the motor there is a small gap for the Allen key in the plastc head near the motor ( mostly in between the feet )to loose the small Allen bolt on the axis. . You have to turn the head ( after loosening )in the right position to see the bolt.


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Old 04-04-2015, 20:49   #7
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Fresh water pump pressure question

Anyone heard or seen the Trac Portable Washdown kit? Seems like a pretty neat package and I could see it stored easily in my anchor locker. I'd just need to add a 12V outlet in the anchor locker but that would be really easy as I could tap into the windlass power. Flow spec seems low at 2GPM but 100psi pressure seems alright.

http://tracoutdoor.com/shop/pumps/tr...down-pump-kit/
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:22   #8
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

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Originally Posted by telecam View Post
Anyone heard or seen the Trac Portable Washdown kit? Seems like a pretty neat package and I could see it stored easily in my anchor locker. I'd just need to add a 12V outlet in the anchor locker but that would be really easy as I could tap into the windlass power. Flow spec seems low at 2GPM but 100psi pressure seems alright.

http://tracoutdoor.com/shop/pumps/tr...down-pump-kit/

We have one. It's okay. Price was right, about $100USD as I recall. Pressure is not great. If you anchor in really sticky mud it takes a long time to wash it off the chain and anchor. We are usually anchored in sand or sand and mud so it's okay for our needs.Our top sides are high so we have to be careful to get the intake hose below the surface. There is a filter/screen inside the plastic fitting on the end of the intake hose that rusted through in a short time. Otherwise, it works okay, not nearly as good as an installed washdown but okay for occasional use.


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Old 05-08-2015, 16:50   #9
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

I too have this problem on our Seawind 1000 and was about to start a new thread when I found Clipper's comments and hope you are all still alive and someone has a solution as a new pump has not been my solution.
I replaced the Shurflo pressure pump a year ago (with no accumulator) when it kept running on with a slow groan noise and over heating to trip out after 15 minutes. I pressure tested the flow side and then tested the suction side by disconnecting the pump from the water tank and connecting it to a pipe into a bucket of water. It worked perfectly with no groan.
Anyway we decided to replace the pump and all worked perfectly...for about 6 weeks. So it has continued to groan on after all taps are off but a lesser groan than before and does not overheat the pump.
So we just turn it off when not using. But i would like to solve it and pressure tested again and suction pipe bucket tested again to no avail. I tracked the suction pipes back to the water tank checking fittings on the way but a full tank provides a small head to the pump anyway so it should leak when tank is full if that was the problem. i did find a weeping water crack 100mm to 2 oclock in the fibreglas 400L water tank but can't see how that could cause the problem. HELP
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Old 05-08-2015, 19:08   #10
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

Pressure switch?
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Old 05-08-2015, 19:08   #11
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

Probably said this before, but does your system have an accumulator? Mine is in a nearby cupboard hidden behind clothing. a crack in the diaphragm or a leaking bleed valve can cause problems. If you have air in your lines somewhere then the system might pump on as the air slowly escapes or just compresses. If you have a hot water service in the pressure side, it's possible for them to bulge under pressure and then contract when the pressure's released. This can also happen if your pipes are plastic but not reinforced. When the system builds pressure, the pipes expand but not so much that you would notice. This keeps the pump going for a while. This might be more noticeable in hot weather.

Other possibilities might be that your tanks have gunk in them that might move and eventually stop check valves from working.When you do things to the pump, the rubbish might get dislodged only to be replaced by another piece. I use 5 micron filters for water going into the tank and also coming out of it.

Can you see every single join and even every centimetre of pipe? You might have a leak somewhere out of sight. Wrap some plastic around each join and check it a day later. Moisture might indicate a slow leak. Sometimes the water will leak out of a join, run along the pipe and drip in the most unexpected places, and so a simple visual inspection is often not good enough.
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Old 05-08-2015, 19:45   #12
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

The pump worked perfectly when you drew water from a bucket but not from the tank. The first thing I'd check is the vent on the tank. If the vent is blocked, the pump will work really hard but won't move much water. If the vent is clear, I'd next check for a blockage between the tank and the pump.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:28   #13
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

There must be small leak. Probably on the presureside. Is there a waterheater/ boiler in the ststem ?? Look especially at the over presure switch/ valve of the boiler. They tend to leak. Other cause can be air ingress on the sucking side. But then the water flow is irregular. Especcaly look at the lid of the small filter /strainers just infront of the pump.
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Old 06-08-2015, 02:57   #14
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

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Originally Posted by phalo View Post
I too have this problem on our Seawind 1000 and was about to start a new thread when I found Clipper's comments and hope you are all still alive and someone has a solution as a new pump has not been my solution.
I replaced the Shurflo pressure pump a year ago (with no accumulator) when it kept running on with a slow groan noise and over heating to trip out after 15 minutes. I pressure tested the flow side and then tested the suction side by disconnecting the pump from the water tank and connecting it to a pipe into a bucket of water. It worked perfectly with no groan.
Anyway we decided to replace the pump and all worked perfectly...for about 6 weeks. So it has continued to groan on after all taps are off but a lesser groan than before and does not overheat the pump.
So we just turn it off when not using. But i would like to solve it and pressure tested again and suction pipe bucket tested again to no avail. I tracked the suction pipes back to the water tank checking fittings on the way but a full tank provides a small head to the pump anyway so it should leak when tank is full if that was the problem. i did find a weeping water crack 100mm to 2 oclock in the fibreglas 400L water tank but can't see how that could cause the problem. HELP
Check spade terminals on pressure switch on pump. I they are not contacting properly, pump will run on groaning!!! Think it causes low voltage to pump
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Old 06-08-2015, 05:23   #15
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Re: Fresh water pump pressure question

Thanks very much for all your responses and iI am particularly pleased so many are still about 3 years after this thread started. I will respond in order of suggestions.

Guy the pressure switch is a possibility I should check though not sure how and is a bit coincidental with two pumps in a row . I recall trying to adjust the previous switch pressure switch but could not improve it.

Dlymn there is no accumulator though am considering installing one in desperation though water flow is good and pressure variation hasn't been a big problem. There was an accumulator on a 2009 Seawind 1170 I sailed on in the Whitsundays last month but don't think they were standard on earlier Seawinds and we have only started having this problem in the last year.
Yes I will look for air in the lines again and I did find 20 pieces of white 2 to 3 mm flat (like chips of paint) particles in the suction side filter which I cleaned and now replaced to eliminate as a possibility. Also the pump will groan on all night if I let it which might exclude the flexing pipes.
The check valve is not obvious to me on the Shurflo pump and assume it is part of the pressure switch but again bit coincidental with two pumps in a row.
Yes i can see all the joins back to the water tank and feel the positive head pressure when tank is full could eliminate them but will check again.

HopCar the fact the pump works perfectly when drawing from a bucket has to be an indicator to the problem but I just can't see how though yes, would have to be from pump back to tank. I pumped up pressure with a plumber pressure test pump on the pump delivery side but not with the pump connected or through the pump but can't see good reason for extending this test to include them. And the tank breather would reduce water flow?...which isn't a problem

Sylfur there is a hot water system we replaced 3 years back but the draw from bucket test would not work if the HWS was a problem. I guess it could be air ingress on the suction side though of low probability with the positive head pressure.

Bruce K the bucket test probably rules out pump terminal issues as far as I can understand.

So I will try and pressure test the suction line but not sure how I can without missing out the final join to the tank or cutting the line and adding adding another T piece I would have to cap off when finished, leaving another potential leak point.

Thanks again for your efforts and let me know any other suggestions.
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