Economical Water tank treatment other than bleach?

[a64pilot]

Just reading through a few of the comments.
An inexpensive carbon filter may not do what you want, any filter if not having some kind of biocide will itself become a significant source of bacteria as it provides a good growth media.
Colloidal silver has been used forever to treat filters and kill bacteria, but you don’t drink it, it stays in the filter, but those usually aren’t in the $11 range.

Vinegar is not a biocide or disinfectant, but it’s great for things like rinsing your ears out to prevent swimmers ear, because it throws the PH so far off that bacteria can’t grow, it doesn’t kill the bacteria but does inhibit it’s growth, but as thinwater said, you would have to drink awful strong vinegar.
Most vinegar is just dilute acetic acid, so buy some powdered acetic acid and you will have many gallons of cleaning vinegar you can mix.

[tdgaffney]

Each of my water tanks has easy access through a 4in dia access cap that one unscrews. So getting into the tanks for cleaning is not a problem. The big problem I have is in trying to clean the several hoses going to the galley and other places. The inside of these is coated with a thin dark film. Any advice how to clean that up?

My only answer is to break open the lines at every fitting opportunity; vacuum suck dish wash detergent and then a long string followed by a tied on wet tampon and pull it back the other way. Repeat.

[CaptMDG]

I use purogene. It is generic and you can get it almost anywhere. No taste at all.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by CaptMDG

I use purogene. It is generic and you can get it almost anywhere. No taste at all.

Interesting. This is the procedure you follow? Note that if you do NOT follow this procedure, you are simply adding chlorate, which is toxic and not an effective biocide. You don't just add Purogene to the tank. Note that the concentrate is not stable (ClO2) and must be used immediately.



For each 50 gallons of disinfection solution, mix the following:
– 16 fluid ounces of Purogene®
– 2 ounces of citric acid
– mix and allow 5 minutes for activation to occur
– Dilute activated concentrate with two gallons of clean potable water.


5pp is suggested, which sounds right. I have worked with ClO2 generation systems before, treating industrial wastewater. It is a stronger oxidizing agent than bleach.


I'm not sure about the corrosion potential for aluminum tanks vs. bleach. They make no specific claim.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

A distinction without any difference.

Let me clarify. There is a BIG difference.


Equipment can be disinfected with strong chemicals you should never drink.


Treatment implies the resulting solution can be safely drunk.


So yes, a clear distinction. It is a matter of word definitions.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

This is still a source of free chlorine. Why isn’t it corrosive? Chlorine is I thought very highly corrosive?
I want to believe you, because then it solves the want do people with aluminum tanks do, because my water tank is aluminum. Currently I fill from the two very slowly through a carbon block filter attempting to remove th echo or one of course. But can’t treat the tanks, because nothing to treat them with.

I believe Sodium hypochlorate is what we used of disinfect water in the Military, which I believe is essentially bleach, we used a solid form.
I think pool chlorine is usually Calcium hypochlorate.

On edit, after doing some reading I find it’s corrosive to metals, but not as corrosive as household bleach, but can’t find any info on aluminum, it seems to be concerned with 304 SS which is 18-8, which is what a lot of surgical instruments and cutlery is made from

There is a corrosion study in Practical Sailor. Yes, corrosion rates were MUCH lower. The reasons is that the organic acid base serves as an effective corrosion inhibitor for aluminum.

[a64pilot]

Does much lower mean pretty much insignificant?
Do you have a link?

[billyehh]

I use about 2ozs. of bleach for 65 gallons of water. I use a Brita filter jug which gets rid of any smell or taste. Keep it in the fridge and now you have cold fresh water.

[35S]

Hi Mike. Try and get hold of anolyte "HOCL" to flush your pipes and tanks with. Its non toxic, green to the environment and humans and non corrosive if made at a neutral PH around 5 to 7. It is utterly effective in killing fungi, bacteria and viruses and wont leave a bleach smell. In fact it can be used as a general sanitiser to clean the entire yacht inside, galley, heads, decks etc.

[Lost Horizons]

Originally Posted by mlydon

I dislike the bleach smell from treating my water tanks with.....bleach. There are some treatments available from starbrite and Sudsbury, but both are rather expensive.....

What do you use? And yes, someday i’ll Rig up a filter system.....

Matt

I am using colloidal silver. Approximately 1 mg of Ag per 1 l of water. The cost of the device is low if you assemble it yourself, the most expensive component is an ounce bar of silver, but it will last a very long time.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by CarlF

Most posters are confusing tank sanitation which requires 200-600ppm chlorine

Where did you find that???????? Provide a reference please, not a story.

That is a MASSIVE amount of chlorine! Is that measured as free or total chlorine?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Does much lower mean pretty much insignificant?
Do you have a link?

Considerably less than tap water even when used at 20 times the concentration. Pretty trivial.



https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...lean-and-fresh

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

Where did you find that???????? Provide a reference please, not a story.

That is a MASSIVE amount of chlorine! Is that measured as free or total chlorine?

ANSI A119.2 section 10.8 (RV code) calls for 60 ppm as sodium hypochlorite for four hours. Double the concentration for one hour.


For ongoing treatment, any detectable residual is enough. Just using tap water is typically enough.



Obviously, the tank must be cleaned first.

[a64pilot]

Thank you, I’ll try finding some.

[Tonali99]

Originally Posted by tdgaffney

Each of my water tanks has easy access through a 4in dia access cap that one unscrews. So getting into the tanks for cleaning is not a problem. The big problem I have is in trying to clean the several hoses going to the galley and other places. The inside of these is coated with a thin dark film. Any advice how to clean that up?

My only answer is to break open the lines at every fitting opportunity; vacuum suck dish wash detergent and then a long string followed by a tied on wet tampon and pull it back the other way. Repeat.

That doesn't sound like very much fun. I had similar problems with my tank (100 gal.) Cleaning it I found the slime you speak of. I found an industrial purifier that removes bacteria growth. Potasium permanganate is a point of entry water treatment ONLY. Do not leave in tank!
Half fill the tank(s). Add 3 onces of PP to quart of water and disolve. Caution, it turns blue and will stain. Add to tank and fill. Run The onboard water till you see it turn color. Let stand 24 hours. Flush repeatedly till all systems run clean. I did it three tines. End of slime. I use the water on the dock mostly, but after 3 months the onboard water is still fine.
Large stores like Home Depot or Lowes sell under sink filter systems. They work great but you may need a better fresh water pump due to the restriction of the filter material. Which type you buy is up to you after considering water quality in your (or other) areas. Get an entry filter too.

p.s. get some glyerin to go with that PP. Great fire starter on that desert island.