Dometic CFX 65W 12V Electric Powered Portable Cooler (Fridge Freezer)... Trouble.

[PetePetePete]

I have a new Dometic CFX 65W 12V Electric Powered Portable Cooler (Fridge Freezer)...

Took it out for a quick 3 night "test" and here is the issue I'm having.

The unit has three settings for battery run-down safety. High, Medium, Low. The higher you set it, the sooner the unit will cut-off... the lower you set it (for deep-cycle batteries) the lower the voltage can go before it cuts off.

The first night, over night, I had it set to "lo" -- my Victron read 12.9v, all was good. I woke up that morning and it was off. My Victron reads 12.4v. The cut off is around 10.x V IIRC.

Ok. So I test all the house house batteries. Then I test the actual female plug (which is newly installed by myself with 10ga wire and everything heat shrunk, crimped, etc. perfectly)... and I get 12.4. I check the plug... not loose. No issue.

Then I have a brainstorm. This thing has an app that you can connect to the cooler... great! I look at the top of the app and it says my voltage is 10.2v

...hmmm... I check everything again. No way, It's 12.4v...

I'm working with tech support at Dometic, and I'll be doing some tests on my end with a brand-new battery and voltmeter right in-line, etc... but I'm wondering if anyone had similar issues. I previously had an Engel, but I wanted something bigger and after my Engel 40 died, I took that as an opportunity to go the 65. I only got 2 years out of the Engel.

[mikedefieslife]

Sounds like a fault or setup issue. I have the CFX50 and haven't had the problem. I don't exactly have beefy wire running to it either since it only draws 4amp max.

If it's playing you can run it from a small inverter until you get to the bottom of the issue, presuming yours if AC and DC like mine is.

[Bean Counter]

Our Isotherm fridge was reading 12.5V at the wires connected to the + and - at the fridge controller terminals, but there was insufficient amps to start the compressor - it was a faulty relay that was getting hot. So may be it is your fuse, plug, breaker or relay that is the issue, or maybe the fan is a dud..

[john61ct]

When you tested your bank, does that mean

using same connections as the fridge

under a load at least as big as the fridge

watching for voltage drop with your DMM?

[PetePetePete]

Originally Posted by john61ct

When you tested your bank, does that mean

using same connections as the fridge

under a load at least as big as the fridge

watching for voltage drop with your DMM?

I tested the with a DMM at the female cigar plug that the Dometic plugs into. It read exactly the same as the Victron showed on the Victron MPPT app... as well as exactly the same as the bank read. All the same.

What I did *not* do was keep the DMM in-line once the unit was plugged in -- however, the Victron clearly showed that there was no significant drop in voltage at all.

[sailscubasurf]

I had the same type of initial problem and then it was suggested I hard wire it to the battery. I haven't had any problems since.

[PetePetePete]

Originally Posted by sailscubasurf

I had the same type of initial problem and then it was suggested I hard wire it to the battery. I haven't had any problems since.

While not optimal, it is an option.

[john61ct]

First thing I do encountering a ciggy port is chop it off replace with the appropriately sized Anderson PowerPole.

Horrible abortion of a design, inherently weak and dangerous,

[PetePetePete]

Originally Posted by john61ct

First thing I do encountering a ciggy port is chop it off replace with the appropriately sized Anderson PowerPole.

Horrible abortion of a design, inherently weak and dangerous,

99% of the time I agree with you on this thought. However, this is a BlueSea port, brand new - installed by me and done so perfectly. AND it's in the cabin so no weather.

[George DuBose]

My Dometic CF 110 is 10 years old. Last summer it began cycling on and off. I had similar problems a few years ago and a serviceman told me not to use the cigarette lighter socket, wire the fridge directly to a 12v power source.

The voltage sensor shut-off capability wasn't deemed a problem.

The good news is that the cooling components are very common and getting service hasn't been a problem.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by PetePetePete

99% of the time I agree with you on this thought. However, this is a BlueSea port, brand new - installed by me and done so perfectly. AND it's in the cabin so no weather.

The other end however may not be.
The plugs are great for running light, low load things, but fail miserably if you try to push any amps through one, and it’s just too easy to bump one etc and make it loose and ruin your food.
Get rid of it, wire direct and I wouldn’t be surprised if your problem is gone.
I never even tried to run my Engle through one

[roland stockham]

I had exactly the same issues with a smaller Dometic using the lighter socket. I think the problem was that under startup loads those plugs drop the voltage to below cutoff. Unless you have a very good current meter with peak reading you wont see it. Once I used a decent connector had no problems. Try either hard wiring or fitting a heavy duty plug and socket

[john61ct]

Actually 65W is under 6A, should be fine.

Agree a BSS port is miles better than stock.

But over 8A continuous, or even short peaks over say 12A, I'd stick with APP, and generally standardize on the latter everywhere for my stuff, leave the BSS port for guests, temporary usage.

Anyway point is, really check wiring stuff for resistance before assuming the fridge electronics is faulty.

Internal fuse?

[Richard Kollmann]

If Battery switch monitor is set to High Compressor stops at 11.8 and restarts at 12.6 volts
Medium, Compressor stops at 11.4 restarts at 12.2 volts
Low , compressor stops at 10.1 and restarts at 11.1 volts
I would think battery protection at Low setting is safe unless you want to run oversize wiring direct to battery.

Dometic should have advised you of this.

The only problem with letting battery drain to the low setting is their may not be enough power left to start engine in the morning.

[PetePetePete]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Actually 65W is under 6A, should be fine.

Agree a BSS port is miles better than stock.

But over 8A continuous, or even short peaks over say 12A, I'd stick with APP, and generally standardize on the latter everywhere for my stuff, leave the BSS port for guests, temporary usage.

Anyway point is, really check wiring stuff for resistance before assuming the fridge electronics is faulty.

Internal fuse?

I'm definitely going to be going over all of it as I said... I hear you guys loud and clear.

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

If Battery switch monitor is set to High Compressor stops at 11.8 and restarts at 12.6 volts
Medium, Compressor stops at 11.4 restarts at 12.2 volts
Low , compressor stops at 10.1 and restarts at 11.1 volts
I would think battery protection at Low setting is safe unless you want to run oversize wiring direct to battery.

Dometic should have advised you of this.

The only problem with letting battery drain to the low setting is their may not be enough power left to start engine in the morning.

Not sure what you're talking about -- I am 100% aware of the chart that discusses the different voltage ranges... that isn't what this post is about. I wish it was.