Cruise RO 30 - multiple problems

[Boatguy30]

How many hours you get from the pump?

Just curious as interesting to think about true cost per gallon over ownership.

Also, perhaps a bad feed pump would cause early failure?

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Outsideworld

Thanks Paul for asking. The unit was installed in 2015. I do plan to “listen to Rich” but also wanted to do my best to troubleshoot before spending &2000. We are in the Exumas, Bahamas so getting anything shipped is nearly impossible.

That suxs, not sure how long the warranty is on these but I guess its expired. I had a low output watermaker and had to rebuild tbe pump after about 2,000 hours and 5 years. But I could buy a rebuild kit for $100 or so and do it myself on the boat with this smaller pump.

[Pottasch]

On a slightly separate note. Watermaker Air at Staniel Cay does a nice side biz bringing in cargo for cruisers. Reasonably priced. You just need to fedex the pump to their hanger in Lauderdale.

[a64pilot]

Where in the Exuma’s are you?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

We've had issues with our CruiseRO 30gph watermaker from the start....the problems have always centered around the boost pump. We now have 3 of them, and I have multiple rebuild kits (ft end and back end). I've tried to rebuild just the ft end (valves kit) but it never seems to work, so now I just assume I need to put both kits in. The watermaker/boost pump pressures also seems to be somewhat sensitive to dirty filters, and act carbon filters with to small a micron rating......we bought some rated at 0.5mic (now replaced with 5.0micron filters) and they made for some strange pressures during FWW. BUT....in ALL CASES, I've called or emailed Rich, he's set me on a path that had always worked, and I trust him for the correct answer to an issue. Like's been said...listen to Rich!

There is a new boost pump that does, away with all that bypass stuff and plumbs direct, much simpler, although I left the pressure adjustment valve in place on mine, but it’s not needed.
Call Rich about it, I’m real pleased with it

[Captain Bill]

Originally Posted by Outsideworld

Thanks Paul for asking. The unit was installed in 2015. I do plan to “listen to Rich” but also wanted to do my best to troubleshoot before spending &2000. We are in the Exumas, Bahamas so getting anything shipped is nearly impossible.

Try Watermakers Air to get things shipped to the Exumas. They charge by the pound and fly into both Staniel and Georgetown. You have the stuff shipped to their office in Ft Lauderdale and they get it to the Bahamas.

Perhaps you gave Rich more information than you gave us, but I take it he does not think a rebuild is an option.

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

We've had issues with our CruiseRO 30gph watermaker from the start....the problems have always centered around the boost pump. We now have 3 of them, and I have multiple rebuild kits (ft end and back end). I've tried to rebuild just the ft end (valves kit) but it never seems to work, so now I just assume I need to put both kits in. The watermaker/boost pump pressures also seems to be somewhat sensitive to dirty filters, and act carbon filters with to small a micron rating......we bought some rated at 0.5mic (now replaced with 5.0micron filters) and they made for some strange pressures during FWW. BUT....in ALL CASES, I've called or emailed Rich, he's set me on a path that had always worked, and I trust him for the correct answer to an issue. Like's been said...listen to Rich!

A little confused here.
I thought the "Boost Pump" was a simple 12v Jabsco impeller type, to ensure water supply to the high pressure pump? (General)

Why is that a sensitivity issue?

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by evm1024

I think that you should decide which caliber handgun you will shoot it with after you trash it with your mantus/rocna/sarca/spade/cqr anchor after placing it on your radar screen with an attached AIS while holding a sextant while using LED lighting powered by 12, 24, 36, 48 ( but not 725 KV ) volt system.

But if that does not appeal to you I would suggest that Rich has offered the lowest cost option.

Listen to Rich!


(I just could not help myself)

You forgot about semi auto, assault, whether women are capable enough to do the shooting, ad nauseum.


Seriously, I thought the same thing. Listen to Rich !

[billgewater]

It's all a bit "rich" .

[john61ct]

Is the fact the freight company is called "Watermakers Air" **really** just a pure coincidence here?

Hardly more credible than any alternative explanation!

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Pelagic

A little confused here.
I thought the "Boost Pump" was a simple 12v Jabsco impeller type, to ensure water supply to the high pressure pump? (General)

Why is that a sensitivity issue?

It is a simple Jabsco pump, but it’s a positive displacement pump so you can’t let it dead head or pressure goes stupid high and the motor will stall of course, use one with a pressure switch and I think it would just cycle on and off continuously, and probably wouldn’t last very long.
So you have to have a way to release some pressure to unload the pump and motor, in this case there is pressure adjustment valve located on the panel, it’s connected to the pressure line after the filters and before the HP pump, opening the valve allows water to bleed off of the pressure side and back to the suck side of the pump, recirculating the water and allowing the motor to operate at a load that doesn’t build too much heat and shutdown via its thermal protection, but stay at a desired and adjustable pressure.
In theory this valve also allows you to keep up the pressure when the filters begin to clog by reducing the bypass flow to keep desired pressure to the HP pump.
I say in theory because it does to some extent, but there is a limit to that of course cause eventually your working the motor too hard and it will overheat and shut down.
It’s a learning process and helps if you understand the system.

However there is a new pump that seems to work much better, simplifies the system considerably and doesn’t require you to fiddle with or babysit feed pressure, and doesn’t require you to understand the system.
I won’t say anymore and maybe shouldn’t have said anything, however if any are unhappy with the current boost pump system, there is a fix, call Rich

On edit, a simple centrifugal pump would seem to be the answer, but I’m pretty sure one won’t make enough PSI to get through the filters with enough pressure left over to prevent the HP from cavitating

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Is the fact the freight company is called "Watermakers Air" **really** just a pure coincidence here?

Hardly more credible than any alternative explanation!

It is no longer WaterMakers Air, but MakersAir. (954) 771-0330 Same place, same people, just a different name. But it was started by WaterMakers Inc. here in Ft. Lauderdale. Really nice people as well.

[Tellie]

Oh, and I never listen to Rich!











Jus kiddin. Rich is a great guy.

[senormechanico]

I listen to Tellie, and met Rich at a Seattle Boat Show.
Both of them are treasures for anyone with or contemplating a watermaker !

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

It is a simple Jabsco pump, but it’s a positive displacement pump so you can’t let it dead head or pressure goes stupid high and the motor will stall of course, use one with a pressure switch and I think it would just cycle on and off continuously, and probably wouldn’t last very long.
So you have to have a way to release some pressure to unload the pump and motor, in this case there is pressure adjustment valve located on the panel, it’s connected to the pressure line after the filters and before the HP pump, opening the valve allows water to bleed off of the pressure side and back to the suck side of the pump, recirculating the water and allowing the motor to operate at a load that doesn’t build too much heat and shutdown via its thermal protection, but stay at a desired and adjustable pressure.
In theory this valve also allows you to keep up the pressure when the filters begin to clog by reducing the bypass flow to keep desired pressure to the HP pump.
I say in theory because it does to some extent, but there is a limit to that of course cause eventually your working the motor too hard and it will overheat and shut down.
It’s a learning process and helps if you understand the system.

However there is a new pump that seems to work much better, simplifies the system considerably and doesn’t require you to fiddle with or babysit feed pressure, and doesn’t require you to understand the system.
I won’t say anymore and maybe shouldn’t have said anything, however if any are unhappy with the current boost pump system, there is a fix, call Rich

On edit, a simple centrifugal pump would seem to be the answer, but I’m pretty sure one won’t make enough PSI to get through the filters with enough pressure left over to prevent the HP from cavitating

Hi Pilot, Thanks for the explanation. I am about to comission my own watermaker bought from Rich... (just waiting on a missing part) and this intrests me and confuses me a bit as it is a bit diferent from my previous R/O units, which were for bigger applications

I can now better understand the OP's question about the boost pump and as I have yet to send Rich my plumbing installation before testing, perhaps he can chime in and we all learn if I've made a mistake.

• This is the Flow Chart that came in the manual with the difference that both my pumps are 24v DC.
  
• My Boost pump is an impellor type and after the sea strainer and before the Prefilter assembly (#3)
• Supply being reduced to the green 1/2" tube, I dont understand why any "Throtting" is needed for the "Boost Pump"... but perhaps I misunderstood??
• Understand the pressure regulating on the Control Panel is required for the HP Pump as that keeps the membranes at optimum reverse osmossis pressure but does that affect the boost pump??

What I see as different from my previous installations was a vacumn gauge on the Prefilter assembly (#3), to actually monitor restrictions... (The big units on Superyachts had alarms and automatic shut downs in case you sucked up a bunch of jelly fish into the large Media Filters.

My previous HRO Watermaker on StarGazer had a Gauge on this filter assembly which was my guide to changing filters when cruising.

Rich, is that a consideration, or do you see them as another piece prone to leaking?

I also asked Rich about this "Mystery Piece" (on purple lid)
Said that drawings and parts sent are often different....
(In fairness, he had not seen my final plumbing so perhaps this is the "Priming Port" #4, which I did not install as my installation is all under the waterline and easy to prime.
Should it be installed and does it have another purpose?