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Captn_Black · 22-05-2020, 16:06

Cheers.
Yes, a detector is a must.
Here's various reports of fatal incidents - https://www.gov.uk/maib-reports?keyw...arbon+monoxide

This one in particular is a good example of how not to do it - https://www.gov.uk/maib-reports/carb...oss-of-2-lives

Warby12 · 22-05-2020, 16:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captn_Black

Carbon Monoxide is no joke. Be careful please mate.

Agreed. The exhaust is airtight. I have a carbon monoxide detector and carbon monoxide alarms (plus photo and ionising smoke detectors right next to it). Also the boat has permanent positive ventilation. Having ample heat actually means we can leave hatches open. I would suggest a properly functioning diesel heater has lower risk of CO release than using the unflued gas stove/oven for heat. Propulsion engines are carbon monoxide risks too.

Exhaust is fibreglass wrapped and behind a metal mesh screen so nothing can rest against it. Both the exhaust and hull fitting are proper marine ones, bought seperately.

I'm very big on safety.

Captn_Black · 22-05-2020, 16:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warby12

Agreed. The exhaust is airtight. I have a carbon monoxide detector and carbon monoxide alarms (plus photo and ionising smoke detectors right next to it). Also the boat has permanent positive ventilation. Having ample heat actually means we can leave hatches open. I would suggest a properly functioning diesel heater has lower risk of CO release than using the unflued gas stove/oven for heat. Propulsion engines are carbon monoxide risks too.

Exhaust is fibreglass wrapped and behind a metal mesh screen so nothing can rest against it. Both the exhaust and hull fitting are proper marine ones, bought seperately.

I'm very big on safety.

Good to hear it. In the latter example I gave, the guy used solder designed for water pipes, which melted and then leaked due to the heat of the exhaust. Just thought I would mention that, as it could be an easy mistake to make.

Edit: Also, +1 for mentioning the stove. I think many people would not consider that danger in a closed boat in winter.

Warby12 · 22-05-2020, 16:26

One note, I have bought two CO detectors that did not detect CO! Not a place to save pennies. Is a place to buy quality and it's good friend redundancy

(Buy two of different type / brand)

Captn_Black · 22-05-2020, 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warby12

One note, I have bought two CO detectors that did not detect CO! Not a place to save pennies. Is a place to buy quality and it's good friend redundancy

(Buy two of different type / brand)

I got a free combination smoke/CO detector through AirBnB, seems good, but I guess I should look into it further.
R.I.P. That source of income now though...

Still, it is not an unfair assumption that they checked the quality before shipping 1000's of them out, to cover their asses.

starminx · 29-05-2020, 10:36

Hei, l live since 2009 on a classic s/y and use a electric free diesel heater just because of all the problems you have. Installed a norskblueflamme diesel heater, for me the best trouble and maintenance free operating heater.
Regards willem

Warby12 · 29-05-2020, 15:45

HI Starminx, I guess you mean a flued one through the deck? Yes that would be great

I couldn't find a spot though.

starminx · 30-05-2020, 00:48

You mean to mount it or where to get info?
The "norskblueflamme.com" heater is bulkhead mounted.

pcmm · 30-05-2020, 04:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boatwright

Wire size and voltage drop!

These heaters (ours is an Espar - 100% reliable) draw heavy current to the igniter when starting. The switch at our fuse panel is rated at only 10 amps DC - this is common for true DC rated switches; many switches one sees in boats are AC rated and will fail early from burned contacts. The heater needs 25 Amps when starting.

Solution: You need a 40 Amp 12 Volt relay to handle the switching and #10 wire in the heater circuit. If you don't understand this recommendation, you need to hire a qualified marine electrician who does before you burn your boat up.

Wrong, wrong, wrong...These heaters in no way need 25 amps when starting. If they did, they'd immediately blow the 15amp fuse they come with!!! #10 wire is only needed if your run is long from the battery to the device. a 40amp relay just adds complication where its not needed.

Lets start with some GOOD advice

1. check the install. Is the heater installed correctly with the correct fuel line ( the small white stuff, some have been shipping recently with a larger id green line which causes issues)
2. check the settings on the heater. some come set to 24v
3. check the battery voltage when the heater is starting up. during the initally start up these units draw approx 10amps while the glow plug, fan and fuel pump are running then they drop down to 1-3amps depending on the setting.

Warby12 · 31-05-2020, 00:20

Yes, I agree, ours pulls 8-9 amps in startup. Now that I've removed the nest from the exhaust it starts without fail

Starminx, they look really good but we can't put a flue through the deck. Also, we would have had to perform major internal surgery inside to fit it and to be honest, as much as I love the boat, I'm trying to work on it less and sail it more