another try to fix AB cold machine with AB power plate

[cgebluewater]

I am going to attempt another try to get my AB cold machine with AB power plate working properly again. I had a lot of advise on old thread back in March. Some conflicting advise at that time. purged some refrigerant at that time with no success in the end.
Boat is in the Bahamas so I am limited on qualified help at my specific location.
I will be bringing new Gauge set, pump, adapters, scale to weight refrigerant, Etc.
I plan to check for leaks then pump done system for several hours then put in 3.2 OZ by weight. I don't feel confident trying to replace the filter/dryer because it is soldered in place so keeping my fingers crossed it will be OK.
I will only have a few days to do this job along with many other tasks to prepare boat for hurricane season so I would like to be as efficient with this attempt as possible.

detailed step by step directions would be appreciated

MORE DETAIL:
Last attempt replaced controller, put jumper on T-stat, Installed new 10 Gauge wire with fuse directly from battery, bypassed AB stainless steel board at control module, replaced 12 volt fan. There are no code lights flashing on LED added to controller. compressor and fan stay on and power plate gets cool and condensation but no frost or significant cooling. Therefore I think I have ruled out electrical supply, controller, T-stat issues. Think we are dealing with refrigerant issue.

[OzePete]

Originally Posted by cgebluewater

I am going to attempt another try to get my AB cold machine with AB power plate working properly again. I had a lot of advise on old thread back in March. Some conflicting advise at that time. purged some refrigerant at that time with no success in the end.
Boat is in the Bahamas so I am limited on qualified help at my specific location.
I will be bringing new Gauge set, pump, adapters, scale to weight refrigerant, Etc.
I plan to check for leaks then pump done system for several hours then put in 3.2 OZ by weight. I don't feel confident trying to replace the filter/dryer because it is soldered in place so keeping my fingers crossed it will be OK.
I will only have a few days to do this job along with many other tasks to prepare boat for hurricane season so I would like to be as efficient with this attempt as possible.

detailed step by step directions would be appreciated

MORE DETAIL:
Last attempt replaced controller, put jumper on T-stat, Installed new 10 Gauge wire with fuse directly from battery, bypassed AB stainless steel board at control module, replaced 12 volt fan. There are no code lights flashing on LED added to controller. compressor and fan stay on and power plate gets cool and condensation but no frost or significant cooling. Therefore I think I have ruled out electrical supply, controller, T-stat issues. Think we are dealing with refrigerant issue.

Previously there was no way of knowing what the previous 'technician' had done or what refrigerant etc he used so starting from fresh as you described is best. I agree it appears to be a refrigerant problem as previous findings indicated.

Connect blue hose to the suction service valve, (Low side) yellow to vac pump and red to high side (if high side valve is available). Open hand valve(s) and evacuate the system for as long as practical, (at least a couple of hours) then close gauge hand valves.

Then remove centre (Yellow) gauge hose from vacuum pump and connect to the gas supply bottle. Open the gas bottle a tad and loosen the yellow hose where connected to the gauge manifold to purge air out of hose. Tighten yellow hose to manifold, open yellow side hand valve fully, (not Red) and open gas bottle a little to allow a slow amount of refrigerant to feed in and cause the suction gauge to rise to above zero, but not above 15PSI.

Run unit and keep slowly feeding in refrigerant to maintain approx 10PSIG. When you find that the system maintains 10PSIG without adding gas, leave to run.

Cheers, OzePete

[Richard Kollmann]

If the AB Power plate evaporator has only cold condensation moisture on it you need to first see if moisture is causing a short term blockage in refrigerant flow every few minutes.
To confirm there is moisture freezing and thawing listen inside box for the normal hissing sound when refrigerant is flowing and the interruption in sound every few minutes when ice melts and then hissing flow begins again keeping refrigerant in evaporator just above 33 degrees F.

If you now have confirmed that moisture in refrigerant is truly your problem it will take much more than two hours running on vacuum pump while keeping complete system warm to as close to 100 degrees F as possible. This means everything inside box must also be warm.