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Old 31-01-2020, 04:06   #16
Marine Service Provider

Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
Posts: 1,885
Re: AB frige Power Plate frosting only at the connection

I am not sure what I am looking at in picture 857 I see no frost indicating refrigerant phase change there. Frost should begin shortly after leaving capillary tube.

Picture 828 shows an almost normal frost pattern on power plate but extreme abnormal frost on right hand fitting. This amount of connector frosting makes me believe it is the low pressure connection and not high pressure connector. Is it possible to follow the frosted connector line all the way to condensing/compressor unit? Bottom line at condensing unit is high pressure warm line, Top line is low pressure and is cooler than high pressure line.

The condition you first reported with first picture was no frost on Power Plate and compressor running excessively. The change now occurred by removing frost above plate and raising compressor refrigerant flow to normal BD3 compressor load capacity of 5 amps. Hopefully you will temporally have refrigeration. What would concern me is that amount of frost on plate connector that indicates frost is moving back towards condensing unit indicating capillary tube is not the only refrigerant flow restriction in this loop.

It is also important to verify that capillary tube is in high pressure line and not in suction low pressure line.
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Old 31-01-2020, 05:45   #17
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Montreal, Caribbean
Boat: Hunter 40.5
Posts: 12
Re: AB frige Power Plate frosting only at the connection

Thanks Richard, I will follow up and monitor in following days.
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Old 03-04-2023, 05:05   #18
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Montreal, Caribbean
Boat: Hunter 40.5
Posts: 12
Re: AB frige Power Plate frosting only at the connection

Hello again, some 3 years later it looks like there is a bit more leak in one or both old AeroQuip connections by the compressor, shown on one of the previous pictures. The frige has been working well for 3 seasons (6 months each ) needing 1 or 2 3second shots of R134a at the beginning of the season. I just got a WJL detector and as soon as I get the probe close to one or the other connection it indicates leak without precise indication. I also tried water/dish soap recommended by Richard without specific indication.
I would like to tighten both fittings, Richard mentioned previously that it can be done with 2 wrenches. I am not exactly sure how is this done without twisting soldered tubes or loosening the connection in center. Is there a piece in center with right and left thread? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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