I have read the reversing valves can get stuck and very light tapping on the very end helps to move them. Dont tap middle, might deform valve body.
When had unit out at home, I activated valve and heard loud click but found reversing valve was stuck in heat mode and did not switch to cool mode till I tapped on it. Then it was sucking on suction and pumping on discharge very well. When valve is energized = heat mode, non energized = cool mode.
Newer boat heat pumps exercise the valve when unit is turned on.
I would think you should not activate or deactivate this valve if the refrigerant is flowing. Would it not suddenly reverse the flow and cause a refrigerant pressure wave of some kind?
So how could you design a circuit to move the valve so it wont get stuck.
I would think before compressor starts send current to the valve, then do whatever is appropriate for heat or cool. Then start compressor. How could that be done?
Think on that cause you might suggest turn thermostat to high heat but even if that works you wont remember to do it so needs to be automatic done for you. I also noticed it is too hot in the cabin
for the thermostat to call for heat mode.
Went to boat this AM, we are having a heat wave and outside is 100 today for Americans, 50 for Europeans.
Water temp is about 80 to 82
I checked pump flow with a 5 gallon bucket and got 5 gallons in 50 seconds so that is good. My pump is a 12 volt centrifugal bait well Attwood pump I power off a 120 volt relay in a metal box next to the condensing unit. This pump works very well and not too expensive. Outlet uses a 3/4 inch hose. IF you snug the 3/4 hose all the way up the condensing unit pipe it fits well with a clamp.
I will get some muriatic acid and clean inside of condenser. People say use 5% and recirculate over and over. However not sure how to do that with a below water line centrifugal pump? I could though take lines off pump and outlet and hold them up use a funnel to fill coils with 10% muriatic and let that sit, flush and repeat.
Started up AC unit and it was cooling. I need to check all the refrigerant lines and coat them with PL Premium polyurethane
since they have some outward corrosion
where they run through the lower bilge
area. Then put on an insulating cover. Since it is both heat and cool, both lines should be covered and some are but over the last 40 years insulation
has disappeared on much of the copper lines. I never use heat mode so I might not bother to cover the discharge lines.