Where’s My Cutless Bearing?

[theway]

I have the shaft backed out but not sure where the strut ends and the bearing starts. It all looks like one piece. (Please see images)

Any advice?

[Scubaseas]

It's in there. Remove the set screw/s. The left picture the cutlass is flush with the strut. Ideally you have a replacement that runs the whole length but not critical but it does make changing it easier. Sand off the paint to see where the set screw/s are. You can use an old bearing or some thin wall pipe (exhaust pipe from your FLAP will work sometimes) and there are presses that can push the bearing out with the shaft in place. If you pull the shaft, you can carefully cut the old bearing along the length and it'll come out easily. You probably have this style

https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/...-inch-bearings

[Scubaseas]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZQHLvUUyuE

or similar. I think there are places you can rent the puller. Or just press the old out with the new. A heat gun on the strut may help.

[skipperpete]

Are you sure that its a cutless bearing your looking for? It could be novasteen, ferobestos , Thordon or any one of the other thin wall offerings on the market.

[Scubaseas]

Unless someone changed the skeg. The OP has the same year, make and model as my 1980 Pearson 323 which has a cutlass bearing.

[theway]

Yup, still the 1980 p323
Any guess on which side the set screws are?

I ordered this one:
https://citimarinestore.com/en/metal...870292100.html

If the bearing is pulled with shaft in, how does the new one go on?

[Scubaseas]

Let me double check tomorrow. It's been a while since I put a new bearing in. There may not be one, just the hole but it depends on what the last guy did. Pretty sure it's on the starboard side at 0300 facing froward. I recall a threaded hole being there.

You press it in. I used a bearing splitter but then I was an auto mechanic with a 7000ft.sq shop. You tube will surely have videos on the subject.

Found this picture. The little silver dot is where there is a hole. Like I said it may be empty. https://strutpro.com/strutpro/wp-con...8/hp-image.jpg

[theway]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

Let me double check tomorrow. It's been a while since I put a new bearing in. There may not be one, just the hole but it depends on what the last guy did. Pretty sure it's on the starboard side at 0300 facing froward. I recall a threaded hole being there.

You press it in. I used a bearing splitter but then I was an auto mechanic with a 7000ft.sq shop. You tube will surely have videos on the subject.

Found this picture. The little silver dot is where there is a hole. Like I said it may be empty. https://strutpro.com/strutpro/wp-con...8/hp-image.jpg

Thanks for the photo! That screw position makes sense. I have a line cutter and the bolts are on that side… Either covering the set screw or possibly using that hole. I’ll have to find out how the line cutters are installed. I think I have the manual on the boat. Going there now.

[Scubaseas]

There are two set screw holes on the starboard side of my strut.

[theway]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

Unless someone changed the skeg. The OP has the same year, make and model as my 1980 Pearson 323 which has a cutlass bearing.

Mine does look a bit different than yours.

[Scubaseas]

The picture I sent was off the Interweb, not from my boat. Give me a bit and I'll find a five year old to help me send a picture of my boat. Mine looks exactly like yours less the line cutter. I even have the zinc which is not factory just FYI.

[Scubaseas]

here you go. Yellow is where the screw holes are.



https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ture35406.html

[theway]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

here you go. Yellow is where the screw holes are.



https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ture35406.html

Wow thanks! Helped a lot. One was hiding under paint. The others are from the line cutter mount.

[Bowdrie]

When installing the new bearing make sure you don't have to "beat it in" or beat the old one out.
Transmitting heavy hammer blows into a strut that is hanging down from the hull is not good form, whether removal or installation.
Make sure the bore of the strut is nice and smooth/clean.
I've used a "bottle brush" with stiff bristles, spun in a drill motor to get a nice clean bore, but obviously the shaft was removed.
Whatever method you use you want a clean bore.
Also be careful with the setscrews, some bearings have rather thin shells and torquing down setscrews too tightly can deform the shell, squeezing the rubber against the shaft.
A good slathering of "Nikal" anti-seize can help installation.

[Pete7]

We have had to revert to a hacksaw before now to make two cuts and cold chisel a strip of the bearing out. The remainder then comes out easily. We now use GRP cutlass bearings which are easier to cut out.

If you have a rope cutter, you may find the screws go through the p bracket into the bearing which will require drilling and tapping. Don't drill with the shaft in place as you will put burrs on the shaft which will destroy the cutlass. A "professional marine engineer" did this to mine, hence why I do my own now.

There are some scoring marks on the prop end of the P bracket, what has caused these marks? Depending on how much play you have in the engine mounts, the shaft will move 1/4" or so in and out as you accelerate under power. If the prop or a rope cutter touches the P bracket it will cause these sorts of marks. Allow sufficient space for this. What ever the diameter of the shaft, the prop can be mounted this far back from the P bracket. This is a recommendation though and ours is a little further back again.

Pete