What shaft parts to remove to align engine?

[WaldPinkler]

I am replacing the engine mounts and need to remove the coupling to do the alignment. I've pulled the bolts off the drive saver but what next?

How do I slide the shaft back with the PSS seal?

I will remove the drive saver to do the alignment with just the flanges then reinstall.
It looks pretty rusty down there, I'd like to remove, clean and paint it.

The PSS also has a bit of crud on the rotor. I guess I'll try clean that too.

(I'm also in the water)

[RaymondR]

The stainless sleeve on the PSS has grub screws which you need to loosen and then the sleeve should slide forward on the shaft.

[WaldPinkler]

I've loosened the PSS rotor and took the drive saver off. I can't get the flanges to meet. I tried tightening 2 bolts to pull them together but just managed to pull the engine forward slightly and the shaft no longer turns freely. I guess the prop is hitting.

How do I align this without the flanges touching? I've seen a dual gauge method but I don't have them. That would take a week for delivery.

I can try remove the rear flange. I could only get one bolt to turn so far. Maybe it can slide further forward on the shaft so I can get the alignment.

First time doing this. There's a trick to everything!

[WaldPinkler]

Also cleaned the mating surfaces. Not completely smooth due to rust. I've sanded it a small amount so far. How far will this throw things off with a feeler gauge?

[Bowdrie]

From your description it appears that the original installation was improperly done.
Done correctly the shaft is long enough to allow the 2 halfs, (shaft side/trans side,) to mate properly and still have prop clearance, then the coupling halves are separated and the Drivesaver installed.
Then, should the Drivesaver fail due to outside forces one may remove it and still bring the couplings together to continue on with engine power.
Since you don't have that option, you'll have to get inventive, (imagineering),
First you need to support the shaft in a "neutral" position, (pieces of wood come to mind,) along with some clamps/what-have-you, where it's not binding on the cutless bearing, it's not hard to find that position.
With the shaft "free" as you have it, by grasping it you'll be able to move it slightly side-to-side and up-an-down and determine "center", where the shaft is free and can turn easily.
Supported in that position, and since the shaft will not slide forward enough to touch the other half on the trans, you will use a "spacing gage", it can be as simple as a small chunk of metal that is of known thickness, (use a dial caliper).
You'll then combine your spacer along with your feeler gage to get some readings at the 12/3/6/9 o'clock positions.
Be sure that the shaft is not moved during this time, not even the tiniest amount you can measure.
This will get you real close, if you have to adjust the engine mounts do so in very small increments.
Patience and thought-out small steps bring satisfactory results.
I know, it's a tedious job but it pays-off big time in bearing life and smooth/quiet operation.
Their is a "Plan B", (a good idea for anything on a boat).
Can you loosen slightly the coupling from the shaft? I notice "pinch bolts" in the picture, if so, can you slide the coupling on the shaft?
If the coupling can be slid on the shaft enough to close-the-gap then you can at least obtain some readings that can be quite close.
The idea being that the supported shaft is still held in its neutral position whilst the coupling is slid forward for measuring, (this assumes that the coupling does not have angular deflection when loosened).
Sorry for the long-winded post, since the Drivesaver was still Ok things can't be that far off, go easy.

[RaymondR]

I'd put the drive saver back in and tighten it up to the gearbox flange and put the nuts on the shaft side hand tight. You can rotate the shaft to see which nuts loosen and adjust the alignment until they all stay equally finger tight and then tighten them all up.

[WaldPinkler]

I'll try to remove the shaft coupling first. May as well clean it up now then when it's even more rusty later.

Using the drive saver seems inaccurate. It's fairly flexible. It shouldn't be used with feeler gauges?

[WaldPinkler]

Coupling removed and dropped the key down the deep bilge.

I've cleaned it and painted. Clamped it forward so I can now finally get onto the alignment. Nothing is simple!

[tkeithlu]

The tool I'd turn to is a vernier caliper. They read to 1/1000 inch, and can span the space between the two flanges. I'd also use a 12" or better steel ruler, laid on the flanges annd then eye-balled as parallel to the shaft, because alignment is not just the space between the flanges, it's also the two having the same center point - they could be parallel but not concentric. Here's a vernier caliper for $17 US. :

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Mic...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You'll find you get the hang of this pretty quickly. Oh, and notice, when you are wondering how in hell you can get a vernier caliper under the shaft, that if you get the same measurement at 9, 12, and 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock will be the same.

[WaldPinkler]

The alignment is still not done. Of course things are different to the videos I watch.

First is the shaft doesn't droop out of the gland. There's not much play at all. I guess that's a good thing. I don't have to prop it up really.

Second is the coupling halves fit together with a bit of a cup which takes most of the alignment up. I separated this and coarsely aligned everything the best I can with a straight edge. Pretty inaccurate.

Third is adjusting the motor angle. I can get the vertical plane fine using the mounting bolt nuts. The horizontal plane isn't easy. Other motors have horizontal adjustment pins. I can only loosen the mounting bolts from the bed and try lift the engine and nudge it.

[WaldPinkler]

I can see if there's a caliper nearby but the car is off to the mechanic for a week.

[WaldPinkler]

Actually, I have a venier caliper to 0.1mm. maybe life is easy

[mlydon]

The motor mount holes used to bolt them to the bed typically have one round, bolt sized hole, and a slot. You loosen them and tap the slot end (or pry, or whatever) to one side, as appropriate, to change the engine’s angle.

It can be tricky, given where the mounts are in relation to the flange, to get it right. For example, if you angle the engine to port a degree as needed to match the flange, shifting the front mounts a bit, that puts the flange to starboard, so it’s now no longer lined up axially. You actually have move the front twice as far, and the rears half that distance in the same direction, in order to maintain 1 degree in the same location. The same goes for pitch angle.

The standard for alignment is 1 thousandth per inch of flange.

While it’s great to have everything as close as you can, remember that the mounts are flexible- the engine is going to get pushed forward and backward from prop thrust, side To side from heel and torque - even leaning on it will shift it. So finding DEAD CENTER isn’t really possible. Just give the engine a good shake and let it settle between measurements, and keep at it.

Finally, you’re supposed to do the alignment when the boat has been afloat a couple of weeks, to let the hull settle.

Good luck!
Matt

[kapnd]

Check both the coupling faces for run out before attempting alignment.
If anomalies are discovered, check the shaft too.
My comment is prompted by your statement trying to pull the coupling halves together by tightening the bolts.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by WaldPinkler

I've loosened the PSS rotor and took the drive saver off. I can't get the flanges to meet. I tried tightening 2 bolts to pull them together but just managed to pull the engine forward slightly and the shaft no longer turns freely. I guess the prop is hitting.

How do I align this without the flanges touching? I've seen a dual gauge method but I don't have them. That would take a week for delivery.

I can try remove the rear flange. I could only get one bolt to turn so far. Maybe it can slide further forward on the shaft so I can get the alignment.

First time doing this. There's a trick to everything!

Can you use a large drill bit or metal dowel pin? Select one that is slightly bigger than the gap you have, open the gap to where it just fits, use the bit/pin to determine where to adjust until the flanges are = spaced all around.
Of course it's a game back and forth between faces being spaced equal and adjusting tilt of the engine...
You can use feeler gages with the pin but really, not needed until the absolute final adjustment.