Too Much Pitch?

[Blue Stocking]

Thanks Paul,

Bluestocking has a Westerbeke W46 with 2000 hrs. Last fall we did an overhaul. All cylinders within 10lbs, 3 or 4 thou on the thrust faces, no carbon and injector tips good. I can get 7.2 knots at 1900rpm ( clean bottom) with a 1.50 Hurth turning a 17 x 13 3-blade. All the guages are right where they should be.
Lots of good advice here.

[s/v Jedi]

DanHaun,

Let's step back and look what we have: first, while tied to the dock, you get 3000 rpm in neutral gear and 2500 in forward gear. You guy tells you the procedure of checking max rpm is done while tied to the dock and thus you need to reduce prop pitch. But your manual says this must be tested while underway, so you post to this forum. Next, most/all of us say to take the boat out; you do, and find that it now reaches 2800 rpm, surprise! Right here, the guy you're working with has lost all credibility, he was wrong on something he should know very well. He has no place being a diesel mechanic on boats. And now, he is telling you all is fine (is it really the same guy??!!). Why do you still trust him?

As others have said, at first sight 2800 vs 3000 isn't to bad. But it isn't going to stay like that, the prop will get at least slime and what have you on it, reducing the rpm's further. And before you know it, you are going to be in trouble again. So, again, I don't agree; you should make 3000 rpm's now with everything clean. When the prop fouls a bit and you can only make 2800 rpm later, you don't have to worry too much and can correct it yourself by scraping the prop. I think your prop guy wants you out of his shop because he has your money already.

cheers,
Nick.

[danhaun]

I posted because I do not trust the mechanic. I caught him in other errors. For instance he told me that my strut was bent when in fact it is offset on purpose to allow shaft removal. He has repeatedly told me that the boat will not back down with the Campbell prop, (he calls it a "chop prop") but it does back down very well. Now he tells me that he would not move the boat with it being over propped.

My dilemma with the mechanic is that I am a captive here. I broke down 150 miles from home in late May as was towed to the yard. The yard has some exclusive agreement with this guy and takes a piece of his fee. I tried to get another nearby firm involved but they declined and I could not move to find a new mechanic.


On the positive side, he basically ignored me and did not get on my job. After two weeks of no activity, I started to do my own work. I researched and ordered the new engine, pulled the old engine and put in the most of the new stuff without him. I bought all parts. He consulted on engine bed modifications (that I made) and in the end, he set and aligned the engine. I saved tons of money and gained a lot of confidence. Right now I just want to be rid of him now, move boat home. At home, I can get diver to handle to prop for me.

I am so grateful for all of the posts.

[danhaun]

Just to clarify. it is not the mechanic that told me to go through break in. The guys who told me to go though break in are Norm at West by North (prop supplier) and the Universal/ Westerbeke distributor in Pensacola Florida. Neither said that I was good but that I was close enough to go through break in before re pitching.

I will let you all know if I get increased RPMs after break in.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by danhaun

I posted because I do not trust the mechanic. I caught him in other errors. For instance he told me that my strut was bent when in fact it is offset on purpose to allow shaft removal. He has repeatedly told me that the boat will not back down with the Campbell prop, (he calls it a "chop prop") but it does back down very well. Now he tells me that he would not move the boat with it being over propped.

This guy is a first class poser and clown if that was his comment about the Campbell. Anyone who knows anything about fixed sailboat props, which he does not, would know the Campbell will back circles around a Michigan Wheel, with less prop walk to boot, and also stop your boat faster.

The traditional Michigan "MP" wheel or "mixing prop", as they were so aptly named from their use in the bakery industry, is a joke of a prop when compared to the Campbell in every performance aspect smoother, less vibration, more efficient, less prop walk, less drag under sail and stops the boat better....

I guess prop walk does not matter much when mixing up bagel dough... Obviously your "mechanic" needs to get out a little more and learn about "new technologies", thought the Campbell has been around quite a while......