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fstbttms · 17-02-2013, 18:59

If fabricating your own plate-type puller seems like too much to go through, here's what the pros use. The most versatile puller I own, this tool works for probably 90% of the props I pull:

PRO-PULL 1"-2" VERSATILE PROP PULLER

Celestialsailor · 17-02-2013, 21:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by sww914

Nice tool!

That's what my ex use to tell me when she was in love...he he

Quote:

Originally Posted by delmarrey

I made one too.

It also pushes and pulls my cutlass bearing. Everybody should have one!

.

I like the cutlass set up. I made a funky drift for mine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by westwinds

Maybe this is your boat yoga, loosen the bolts holding the propeller shaft flange and put a socket in there after you take the shaft nut out, then reassemble with longer bolts for the flange connection and tighten. This will force the flange off the propeller shaft as you tighten the bolts.

I'm a Machinist snob. We never use a socket as a drift...

Quote:

Originally Posted by fstbttms

If fabricating your own plate-type puller seems like too much to go through, here's what the pros use. The most versatile puller I own, this tool works for probably 90% of the props I pull:

PRO-PULL 1"-2" VERSATILE PROP PULLER

I hope that work adequately but i see it pulls off-center off the edge of the prop flange. that would actually force a binding factor on removal and they're difficult enough to get off. Underwater must be fun. But if you've had luck with it...goes to show what works.

fstbttms · 17-02-2013, 21:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

But if you've had luck with it...goes to show what works.

Luck has nothing to do with it. It's the right tool for the job.

Celestialsailor · 17-02-2013, 21:23

It's right if you don't have to fight it. If it works for you...great. Two flanges in line with the shaft is the most efficient transfer of the pulling energy.

delmarrey · 17-02-2013, 21:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

I like the cutlass set up. I made a funky drift for mine.

BTW it works with the shaft in.

I'm a Machinist snob. We never use a socket as a drift...

Me too!

I hope that work adequately but i see it pulls off-center off the edge of the prop flange. that would actually force a binding factor on removal and they're difficult enough to get off. Underwater must be fun. But if you've had luck with it...goes to show what works.

And we could modify it so it works better.

Celestialsailor · 17-02-2013, 21:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by delmarrey

And we could modify it so it works better.

Oh oh...here comes an argument!

fstbttms · 17-02-2013, 21:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

It's right if you don't have to fight it. If it works for you...great. Two flanges in line with the shaft is the most efficient transfer of the pulling energy.

Yes, I know. I own that type of puller as well. Much more difficult and time consuming to use. Really only useful for very large props.

Celestialsailor · 17-02-2013, 21:31

Ha ha...agreed...Machinist tend to overbuild everything they touch. The one I made, you could use as a weight belt

captain58sailin · 17-02-2013, 21:33

It is just as easy to construct your own, 2 pieces of plate steel 1 with a u cutout and 3 all thread rods with nuts, have been using the same for years, simple easy, if stubborn apply heat, then as it cools apply WD-40 which will be drawn in by the warmed metal. If you build it yourself you can custom fit it for your vessel. If you want to get fancy you can put a 4th threaded bolt in the center of the plate to apply against the loosened prop nut on the end of the shaft, once finished using dismantle it all lays flat and takes up very little room.

westwinds · 17-02-2013, 21:35

I thought it was cutless rather than cutlass.

delmarrey · 17-02-2013, 21:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by fstbttms

Yes, I know. I own that type of puller as well. Much more difficult and time consuming to use. Really only useful for very large props.

Just giving you a hard time. I know it works (Not speaking for CS). Working with tapered fits is child's play for Machinists. In reality if there's no corrosion or galling all one needs is some good pressure and smack on the side of the hub and it should pop right off. If there is resistance then force is necessary. Sometimes enough to damage the outer surface.