Lost Prop on Passage

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by SY Harmony

That’s the fairing cone or a zinc depending. It’s not the prop nut. When properly installed the tab washer engages and locks the hex head bolt to the hex head of the cone nut. I stand by lazy installation.

Yeah, I don't like admitting I was wrong either

[team karst]

Originally Posted by SY Harmony

When properly installed the tab washer engages and locks the hex head bolt to the hex head of the cone nut. I stand by lazy installation.

That photo shows pre applied thread lock on the bolt.

[deblen]

Originally Posted by SY Harmony

When properly installed the tab washer engages and locks the hex head bolt to the hex head of the cone nut. I stand by lazy installation.

If the cone is threaded onto the shaft,what good is it to lock the long bolt to the cone? If the cone decides to unscrew,it will just unscrew the long bolt with it?
Am I missing something? / Len

[deblen]

Three different cone nut designs,each replacing the previous.
Looks like VP are aware of problems.
https://www.generalpropeller.com/pro...o-Penta-850396

[deblen]

Link to older post about same problem with opinions :
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ve-228928.html


Video showing guts of the cone nut:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28iZxdkQQ04

[skipperpete]

Thanks for the links deblen,both very informative and to this day I remain puzzled by the cascade of events in the first link that caused the exit of the propeller from the rubber core and THEN the loss of the splined hub.
In the second link, despite achieving the ultimate goal of removing the cone nut, the owner broke most of the unspoken rules of Saildrive etiquette. I’ve done a lot of saildrive rebuilds and repairs (mainly Yanmar) and have never been inclined towards hitting the cone nut with a hammer, the risk of damaging the thread on the end of the propshaft or harming the bearing carrier is simply too great. The cone nut helicoil in the video is often the culprit and under no circumstances should loctite be used here. I’ve had good results by removing the whole bearing carrier assembly and working on the bench but this involves getting the anode out of the way and the use of a modified Allen key for the hub retaining bolts. The bearing carrier has to be removed to replace the seals so for me, far easier to extract the hub and do the whole job properly. The possibility of snapping off the shaft thread is very real if poor procedures are adopted.
PeteJ

[team karst]

Originally Posted by deblen

Three different cone nut designs,each replacing the previous.
Looks like VP are aware of problems.
https://www.generalpropeller.com/pro...o-Penta-850396

A hollow M8 bolt is called in the VP description.

[deblen]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Thanks for the links deblen,both very informative and to this day I remain puzzled by the cascade of events in the first link that caused the exit of the propeller from the rubber core and THEN the loss of the splined hub.
In the second link, despite achieving the ultimate goal of removing the cone nut, the owner broke most of the unspoken rules of Saildrive etiquette. I’ve done a lot of saildrive rebuilds and repairs (mainly Yanmar) and have never been inclined towards hitting the cone nut with a hammer, the risk of damaging the thread on the end of the propshaft or harming the bearing carrier is simply too great. The cone nut helicoil in the video is often the culprit and under no circumstances should loctite be used here. I’ve had good results by removing the whole bearing carrier assembly and working on the bench but this involves getting the anode out of the way and the use of a modified Allen key for the hub retaining bolts. The bearing carrier has to be removed to replace the seals so for me, far easier to extract the hub and do the whole job properly. The possibility of snapping off the shaft thread is very real if poor procedures are adopted.
PeteJ

Yes-a delicate area


some crazy? ideas


1.The prop is on a spline & can't turn.
2. The cone nut needs to be locked to the shaft or( prop) to prevent it turning.

3.the long bolt should have been left hand thread.Loctite et al isn't working reliably.




Idea (a)
Cut head off long bolt or replace it with SS stud(threaded rod)
Tack weld to shaft -it doesn't ever have to removed.

Install prop-slide it on over stud
Install Cone nut & tighten.
Drill cross hole in outer end of stud for small cotter.
Install a SS plain,castle,or nyloc nut on stud
Insert cotter.


Idea (b)
Replace cone nut with a SS regular castle nut
Drill hole in shorter SS stud & apply cotter.


Len

[deblen]

Edit: forgot to add pic

[skipperpete]

from the look of the spline in your pic, the least of his problems was the cone nut (unless thats grease on the spline). I like both ideas, just not so much the tack weld suggestion, something happens to welds on propeller shafts that encourages me to avoid doing it.
PeteJ

[skipperpete]

Here’s the tab washer solution IF you have the matching cone nut[ATTACH]