Coopercoat, what to put on the saildrives?

[alamoana]

Trilux works well

[contrail]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

Powder coated paint and wax. Thick bottom paint will not stick and will cause heating problems. Anti algicide wax.
Do you put bottom paint on an outboard, or a sterndrive !!!????
It’s been a tough thread to read

Plenty of people do.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

Gotta love when a freshwater boater comes in here and tells saltwater sailors that they don't know what they're doing, anti fouling-wise

I am a freshwater boater and use trilux on my aluminum hull and outdrives because zebra mussels are awful in the upper Mississippi. I use Micron Extra on fiberglass. I haul out every winter.


I don't know anything about what works in saltwater but I've been told that some things that work in Maine don't work in Florida so maybe it's not only the freshwater boaters who are fools

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I don't know anything about what works in saltwater...

Neither did the other guy but that also didn't stop him from telling everybody else what they were doing wrong. I'm detecting a pattern here...

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by mindsofman

Don't know if it's a possible where you keep the boat but
Where I am in the sth,,if I'm leaving the boat sitting for
More than a couple of weeks,,I go over the side and tie
Black garbage bags over the props and sail drives,,,I've
Left the boat like this for up to 4 months,,Voila !! No
Growth ,,NO Electrolysis. ..
Of course,,there was that one time with the Gator ,but
That's another story....

Here's another story ....

Electrolysis is an induced process in which the anode is positive and the cathode is negative.
This does not occur on boats.

In Stray Current and Galvanic Corrosion the anode is negative and the cathode positive. This is why the less noble (more negative) metals corrode... this is what can occur on boats.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Electrolysis... does not occur on boats.

Right you are

[Uncle G]

As Catjava says, you can use Coppercoat on the drives:

"With the resin carrier insulating each copper particle, the final coating is inert and non-conductive. A current can not pass through Coppercoat and this coating does not cause or promote electrolysis or cathodic decay. Consequently Coppercoat can be safely applied to metal structures such as iron keels and steel or aluminium craft (after the application of an appropriate epoxy primer). The property of electrical non-conduction in metallic powders including copper was first discovered in 1890 by Eduard Branley and is known as the “Branley Effect”. Sacrificial anodes should be fitted in the usual manner."

- https://coppercoat.com/coppercoat-le...ppercoat/faqs/

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Uncle G

As Catjava says, you can use Coppercoat on the drives:

"With the resin carrier insulating each copper particle, the final coating is inert and non-conductive. A current can not pass through Coppercoat and this coating does not cause or promote electrolysis or cathodic decay. Consequently Coppercoat can be safely applied to metal structures such as iron keels and steel or aluminium craft (after the application of an appropriate epoxy primer). The property of electrical non-conduction in metallic powders including copper was first discovered in 1890 by Eduard Branley and is known as the “Branley Effect”. Sacrificial anodes should be fitted in the usual manner."

- https://coppercoat.com/coppercoat-le...ppercoat/faqs/

See post Number 20.
C'mon ! this is simple scientific fact. Just look at the galvanic scale and note the position of metals used in plating. That is one of "electrolysis" uses.

Never ever take electrical advice about a boat from someone who uses the term "electrolysis".

PS. Eduard Branley never used the word "electrolysis".

[Uncle G]

@ boatpoker, the quote I used is from the Coppercoat website.

They have proof of large and small aluminium boats using Coppercoat. Catjava at post 15 has had no problem.

I must admit to still being a little dubious myself but I'm beginning to accept the argument outlined in the quote - and evidence from people who have actual experience. Whilst there will be a potential between each individual copper particle and any exposed aluminium, they are not, and cannot be, in any way joined electrically. So there should be no problem, should there?

We had an alloy yacht that was moored for months directly adjacent to a 90-foot copper-sheathed sailing boat. There was no problem. I imagine that if I had connected a multi-meter up to both boats there would be quite some difference in potential - but no current could flow as they weren't joined in any way.

What do you reckon?

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Uncle G

We had an alloy yacht that was moored for months directly adjacent to a 90-foot copper-sheathed sailing boat. There was no problem. I imagine that if I had connected a multi-meter up to both boats there would be quite some difference in potential - but no current could flow as they weren't joined in any way.

What do you reckon?

I reckon that since both boats were moored in an electrolyte, given enough voltage, current could absolutely flow between them.

[Rumrace]

OP now you have some opinions and experiences. And yes people use the wrong paint a lot. If we ask Yanmar or ZF they will tell you specifically copper paint is a Nono.
The do suggest electronic solutions repainting and priming with proper marine drive paints. Paints with copper in the will cause the drive to corrode.
Let’s verify that with the manual.

[Rumrace]

So there’s the factory answer on adding copper paint or bottom paint to a powder coated drive. Any bottom paint will impair the ability to fight corrosion and maintain the drive. The layers of powder coating are also key to the drive dissipating heat. In a Merc Alpha Drive it can overheat the water pump housing.
The main water intake should not be painted either.
According to two boat manufactures whom use the SeaDrive the drive is not painted during commission in the dealer instruction.
To do so the dealer would be accountable for voiding the Yanmar warranty.
Mercury, Yamaha also mention maintaining paints with factory paints in their maintenance schedule and warranty. Neither mention copper paint use not condone adding paint to their finish

[ItDepends]

Coppercoat is priced so that it makes economic sense only if it reduces the hauloout frequency. On myboat, I need to haul out every 800 engine hours or 2 years (at least) to replace a prop shaft seal. So for me, there is really no reduction in hauling costs if I was to use Coppercoat. So it really makes no economic sense, for me. If you can haul once every 5 years, them maybe it works for you.

If you are using propspeed on your prop, or drive unit you will need to renew that at least every 24 months... or spend a LOT more time and money on clearing your running gear... look carefully at the economic assumptions around Coppercoat. It makes sense for some, but NOT for all...

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

OP now you have some opinions and experiences. And yes people use the wrong paint a lot. If we ask Yanmar or ZF they will tell you specifically copper paint is a Nono.

Coppercoat is not a "paint." It is a copper-loaded epoxy. It doesn't work like copper-based anti fouling paints work. The copper particles are encapsulated in epoxy which is why the manufacturer of that product claims that it will not harm any metals to which it is applied.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Uncle G

@ boatpoker, the quote I used is from the Coppercoat website.

They have proof of large and small aluminium boats using Coppercoat. Catjava at post 15 has had no problem.

I must admit to still being a little dubious myself but I'm beginning to accept the argument outlined in the quote - and evidence from people who have actual experience. Whilst there will be a potential between each individual copper particle and any exposed aluminium, they are not, and cannot be, in any way joined electrically. So there should be no problem, should there?

We had an alloy yacht that was moored for months directly adjacent to a 90-foot copper-sheathed sailing boat. There was no problem. I imagine that if I had connected a multi-meter up to both boats there would be quite some difference in potential - but no current could flow as they weren't joined in any way.

What do you reckon?

I offered no opinion on the veracity of Coppercoats claims.
I simply corrected the use of the word "electrolysis".