Beneteau 343 Prop removal

[Lou Leverone]

First time removing the prop on this boat and would like any words of wisdom. I appears that there is a nut on the end of the shaft but would like to hear from anyone who has done this. Thank you....

[Sailmonkey]

Just like any other boat. Usually has two nuts and a cotter pin. Remove the two nuts and cotter pin. Now comes the hard part. The prop is seated on a taper, and as such has made good friends with the shaft.

You'll need a puller usually to get the prop off of the shaft. Boatyards have these you might be able to borrow, or you can go to an auto parts store and rent a three jaw puller. The auto store puller is harder to use, but still workable.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Just like any other boat.

Ummm... no, it's not. French boats use a nut & washer arrangement that no other boats use. There is a single cone nut and no cotter pins. Here the removal procedure:

Remove anode

Bend the "ear" of the washer down flat so that it no longer secures the nut. This can be done with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer

Remove the nut

Remove the washer and discard

Reinstall the nut over a few threads on the shaft. This will keep the prop from flying off the end of the shaft

Attach prop puller and remove prop

When reinstalling the prop, use a new washer

[Sailmonkey]

I'll be dammed. It's still not that different, but there you have it.

[tinkrman69]

I've seen both locking methods on many boats. Regardless of the locking method, just tightening the bolt on the puller rarely does the job. some will say tighten the bolt and hit it with a hammer, you'll be able to tighten it more after that, repeat this till it comes loose. I used to say the same thing. but the other end of the shaft is coupled to the revers gear or V drive which ever you have. the hammering will damage the thrust bearing and/or gears. I now disconnect the coupling and slide the shaft back an inch or so. Your not driving the bold of the puller, your just hitting it to cause vibration to break the grip the prop has on the shaft. So just holding it with your hand as you strike the puller bolt, won't send it back up to collide with the separated flange. but it will move a little so the force will transfer if the coupling is connected.

[tinkrman69]

I've done this in the water too. you won't sink. just make sure to attach lines to all tools and the porp, as finding them on some bottoms can be a pain.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by tinkrman69

the hammering will damage the thrust bearing and/or gears.

[mikequig]

I have a Beneteau 343 (2008) and yes, it's a little different than the two nut version. You'll need to order a replacement cone zinc and washer because you probably won't find one locally and you don't want to reuse the washer. Photo attached. Btw I have a Kiwiprop for the beneteau 343 for sale.

[mikequig]

Here's what the washer looks like

[spaman]

Originally Posted by mikequig

I have a Beneteau 343 (2008) and yes, it's a little different than the two nut version. You'll need to order a replacement cone zinc and washer because you probably won't find one locally and you don't want to reuse the washer. Photo attached. Btw I have a Kiwiprop for the beneteau 343 for sale.

don't you like the Kiwiprop?
am curious to know why you are selling. are you changing back to fixed blade?

[mikequig]

I threw a blade shortly after a yard period...bought three new blades (the retaining system was redesigned!) but never got around to reinstalling Kiwiprop since I already went back to fixed prop and would have to pull boat out to change it again.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by mikequig

I... would have to pull boat out to change it again.

Well, that is simply not true.

[mikequig]

Yes, you are technically correct that you don't have to pull the boat to change the prop, but as a practical matter, its best to do so (and Kiwiprop even strongly recommends it) because you have to apply locktite to the Allen screws that fix the prop boss to the shaft. It's easier to do out of the water.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by mikequig

It's easier to do out of the water.

Well, having removed and installed Kiwi props underwater, as well as changed out blades, I can tell you it is a simple, straightfoward procedure, easily done (with underwater-setting Loctite, too) by an experienced diver. But it's your time and your dime.

[Lou Leverone]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Just like any other boat. Usually has two nuts and a cotter pin. Remove the two nuts and cotter pin. Now comes the hard part. The prop is seated on a taper, and as such has made good friends with the shaft.

You'll need a puller usually to get the prop off of the shaft. Boatyards have these you might be able to borrow, or you can go to an auto parts store and rent a three jaw puller. The auto store puller is harder to use, but still workable.

Thank you Sailmonkey......