Quote:
Originally Posted by poshman
I just want the forum to know that I was able to fix the oven. Here's a summary for the next boater who has a similar problem. My Princess Stove/Oven is a 1987 electric.
You may recall that a friend of mine isolated the problem to a lack of continuity in the power wire going from the stove/oven selector switch on the far left of the control panel to the oven thermostat on the far right of the control panel. Several inches from where the wire attaches to the oven thermostat was a small rocket-shaped metal object. Under a magnifying glass, I could make out the word Microtemp® 141C. Turns out, this device was a thermal fuse designed to break the circuit and shut off the oven once the wire reached 141°C (I think that is 286° F).
The first time I ever used the oven to roast a chicken, I stupidly had the stove-top cover down. This meant that the oven vent, which extrudes from the center of the rear burner, was blocked. The blockage of the oven vent likely caused the wiring to exceed 141C, thus blowing the thermal fuse and rendering the oven inoperative.
The fix was simple. I found a similar thermal fuse on Amazon, and purchased a pack of 10 for less than $6.00. The fuses arrived on 23 December, and I was able to use a metal butt connector to fit a new thermal fuse into the wire. I reattached the wire to the thermostat and the selector switch, and the oven was operational once again.
On Christmas Day 2015, I roasted a 10lb Butterball Turkey to perfection, and cooked many great fixings along with a gravy on the stove-top. So, the fuses came just in the nick of time.
Thank You All for Your Great Assistance. |
Poshman, you just saved my a$$ big time! Thank you for contributing to this thread and for all the detailed information.
I have a 3342-1126
SeaWard Princess 120 volt that developed the same issues. I had just finished
cooking a nice steak and baked potato, when I went to warm up the oven again for dessert, no light came on and the oven would not turn on. I immediately went into
repair mode and for the life of me I could not figure it out. I tried searching the Owners Manual for a thermal fuse and could not find one, I did continuity testing, I unscrewed and pulled out the oven element to look for burnt wires, I traced the
wiring and came to the conclusion it must have been the "Top Burner"s" (should just be burner)/Oven" toggle switch that had a fuse within it (on te side of the switch it says 15A).
A few days later I did further
research online and came across this thread which you detail, "wire attaches to the oven thermostat was asmall rocket-shaped metal object." THIS WAS KEY! After further examination, I noticed a wire hidden BELOW all the other wires and a protective sleeve over a portion of the wire TUCKED WAY UNDER the Thermostat. I pulled the wires metal butt connector out of the Thermostat, pulled down the protective sleeve, and to my amazement revealed, you guessed it, the rocket shaped fuse!
After looking online for a replacement fuse, I decided to go to my local
hardware store instead, they referred me to the appliance store, who in turn referred me to a small hole-in-the-wall
electrical store. They had plenty in stock, the connector pieces and all, total damage was $4 and my time and energy.
Amazon had one listed for $7.24
https://amzn.to/2GwgSvF
Thank you again for your insight. From looking through the previous owners receipts, I see this had been a problem in the past and cost him well over $60 to try and figure out, he bought new switches and a new left female burner assembly.
Cinnamon buns (other day's dessert) are in the oven now!
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