id require a maintenance
records review, although its a mixed bag on what you get, probably nothing that will be a stoppage. there is a lot of people who dont keep many records, or are really bad at paperwork/record keeping. if they don't have some that's a negative but not a no, depends on context. if it looks bad they may not include that item. or they have kept every receipt and item for the last 10 years and you have to sift through it to figure anything out. you can hide more stuff, or miss stuff in a flood of info and paperwork. some of that may be boat specific so you may not understand all the pieces in regards to your boat, more so if your less knowledgeable on boats. I would make them scan it all and sent it to you however, this gives you an electronic copy to go through and keep for your records, gives thier broker something to do.
obvious one is a stipulation for the hualout and survey
. a surveyor
can find all sorts of bad things that can help you knock down the price
. but its also a good way figure out whats wrong, whats an immediate fix, ect to get your to-do list together. make sure ths is part of your offer and contract. i would schedule all the other surveys before the regular surveyor
. that gives the general surveyor something to look at and identify other areas to dig more. or you can use it to double check how surveyor
not sure if you can do it or not but i would have a stipulation that any surveyor has no association with the sellers broker. i didnt have an issue here but ive heard some nightmare tales where all the people looking at the boat for the buyer was related, or friends with, or connected with the broker. used it to hire thier kids
or cousins ect, and buyer paid a bunch extra.
i had a requirement for an engine
survey with compression
test, you should also have an underway at load/full load test. new engines are 20k or more so its critical to figure out if your going to have issues now, or negotiate a repower
into the price somehow. more than a few people get underway for the first time in thier new boat
and the engine
dies out on the water
. if they refuse a full power test or compression
test, thats a real big red flag, there's a reason for it.
do a test sail, you want to see how everything works and how well it works. there can be a time constraint onthe PO here but it can be a big red flag if they refuse or have a lot of bs excuses.
likewise have a rigging
survey make sure the mast
and shrouds are good. replacing shroud's and stays can be 5k or more depending on the boat. insurance
will be all over this one too. regular surveyor can catch some/alot of this, however he generally doesn't go up the mast
to check things, that's why you want the rigging
check thruhulls make sure they are good, and comply with ABYC recommendations, no plastic thruhulls below the waterline, not just a ballvalve threaded onto a thruhull, make sure the bronze
isnt pink and dezinked - the zinks condition and a dynoplate condition should help give you a good idea on this. check that the stainless shaft/rudderparts/struts ect arent being eaten.
I think id insist on an electrical system
survey. hard getting a good electrician you can trust, but the good ones are worth their weight. i seen shady electricians in San Diego
, i didn't meet any there i would trust fully. doesn't mean they don't exist. here on the east coast
it seems they're so busy you cant get any time. lot of fly by night maybe certified types. have them check the refrigeration
unit voltage while running, and the shore power
inlet. a lot of boats have tons of scary electrical
problems, most caused by the various owners. a good electrician will spot issues really quick. electrical repairs
id make sure go into the seller fix it list part of the contract.
depending on the laws in your area regarding the broker price, id get a buyers broker. if i remember right the total amount of brokerage fees
is a set percentage with both brokers getting half. if you dont have one all that goes to the sellers broker, since they only care about the sale
, not about you thier job is pretty much to get you to sign the dotted line. some can be pretty shiesty. having a buyers broker at least gets someone concerned more with your interests. if you dont get that boat no worries they will bring you to a new one. ficadairy duty kind of thing too i believe. some locations dont have a set brokerage fee so they both could charge a percentage, keep an eye on that in the contract and adjust your counter accordingly. if they are paying the brokers fees
on the contract but raise the total offer to account for it, its really you paying. this may be a negotiable part also. if this is the case for your area you will pay more if you bring in another broker so the money
part is a wash.
the expensive things or the things that can sink/kill you are what you want to check for and put in the contract a stipulation on for the specific survey. Engine, the sails
- condition and age these can be 5-20k depending on the size of the boat, rigging, generator
, bottom/blisters/thruhulls - it cost me 5k to redo the bottom had blisters
. keep in mind you pay for the surveys, but it was $400 when i bought my boat for a detailed engine survey, new engine 20k, rather know if there is something really wrong even if i intend to go through with the sale
so i can account and plan for it at least. worst case its a bad deal and you just walk away.
keep in mind that none of this is necessarily a no go. some of it may be just an owner thing like being a bad paperwork type. the previous owner i bought my boat refused to let me do a compression test with the engine survey, but its an old perkins
4-108 which isnt easy to get such a test and can be grumpy, the PO may not have wanted to be left with issues of such an intrusive task if the sale didnt go through ect. if you start seeing a lot of red flags
and the owner /broker feels shady to you, may be time to pull out.
don't get attached/dont let your wife get attached to the boat while this is going down, try to be neutral as you can till you sign.