Frozen/stuck rudder removal

[Hotsoup]

Hi guys, I have a ‘82 tiara 3100 and I’m having trouble removing my rudders that are completely locked up and can barely move with a 2x4 attached to them. I’ve sprayed them with lubricant and tried hitting the the posts down to free or loosen them up to get them out to no avail. I’ve added a video of them both. Ignore the rust around them, I just ripped out an old bracket. If anyone has any tricks or ideas of how to get these things out I’d greatly appreciate some advice.

[DefinitelyMe]

I don't see any video.

Is there any shaft packing? If so, remove it.

Are you 100% sure everything is detached from the shaft?

Be careful about hitting it from the top. If you deform the top (what's it made from?) it might not fit through the bearings and/or the shaft log.

If you are 100% sure that it should be moving freely and independently, can you get a car jack on the top, apply pressure and then turn it? You should be able to work it down in this way. Just enough pressure to nudge it down with each turn.

Good luck!

[replusted]

Did you run aground and bend the rudder post? If that's the case, you may have to cut the post in multiple places and remove the rudder in sections. Hope this isn't the case.

[Hotsoup]

The video didn’t load. Attached are the pictures. The entire steering is disassembled to allow the rudders to come out. Are there bearings inside the throughhull that could be causing the issue? I put a piece of 2x4 over the shaft to not hit it directly.

[Hotsoup]

Never hit anything with the rudder, when I bought it about 9 years ago it was tight and 2 years ago I had to yank the week to get it to move. Been on land since. Hynautic steering system works as expected when disconnected, so I’ve ruled out all steering other issues at this point.

[Bellinghamster]

I suspect you've got some corrosion between the rudder post and packing gland/tube. I suppose a slight chance it could be dried up grease seizing it, but that seems less likely than corrosion. Sometimes rudder seizing is due to somone using nylon for the bearing and not leaving enough clearance (Nylon absorbs water and swells). From what I can see in the pic, I doubt there is a separate bearing, just the rudder shaft wearing on inside of the bronze tube. I see you've got the packing nut removed - Good. I'd try soaking it from the top with penetrating oil for a few days. Try to turn the rudders occasionally, even if it's just a little bit, to help work it down in the bore. It might take a week or so, just keep squirting a bit on the rudder shaft periodically to keep a "pool" going on top. You could try some light heat (propane torch) on the side of the rudder tube, concentrating more at the top. Heat will lower the viscosity of the oil and helps it work it's way into there, and also will expand the packing tube slightly. Don't heat it more than you can stand to leave your hand on where it meets the fiberglass hull. And take appropriate caution with open flames (obviously!)

[Hotsoup]

I appreciate it from all. Heat was my next move, but I was hesitant with 2 100 gallon tanks 2 feet from there and under wrap, regardless of an open door flap. Jacking was my other thought but done want to risk cracking my deck. Not a lot of options so may need to try all. If anyone else has any ideas, I’m all ears, and will let you know what finally works.

Has anyone used a fluid pressure coupling to force the lubricant down?

Also, I tried superzilla for the first time to loosen up the coupling to replace the stuffing, 30 mins and cracked right open with minimal pressure. Highly recommend. Great for lawnmower wheels too.

[Kijit]

On our boat years ago we were unable to drop the rudder due to corrosion between the stainless rudder stock and the aluminum of the bearing. The actual bearings were some sort of plastic (Delrin? can't remember) so heat would have destroyed the bearings. Actually wound up cutting the bearing off to get the rudder out and then replacing it anyway. Good luck!

[Searles]

Use heat on the bronze only ,use a heat gun ,no flame,just heat up the rudder stock tube ,keep moving it Back and forewards ,have had a rudder locked by over greasing remove any grease nipples fitted ,gently gently .⚓️⛵️

[Hotsoup]

I was able to get one off by wiggling the rudder back and forth, some hits with the sledgehammer, and periodic sprays of PB Blaster and Superzilla, but the other is still stuck. There are no bearings in the through hull and I don't see any issues with either the rudder.

Potentially it just needs to be greased and put back in? Would you recommend sanding down the rod with fine sandpaper then put marine grease when putting it back in?

[Uncle Bob]

Hi, I would clean the tube so it is free of any grease etc then find a piece of dowel that is slightly smaller than the tube and long enough to go right through, fix a piece of sandpaper, say 180 grit, to it and gently polish the tube free of any growth/corrosion. I would also gently polish the shaft till it gleams and reassemble with the best waterproof grease that you can find, think of the grease used to lube folding/feathering props. use the same grease for the gland as well.
Don't ask me how I know.

[s/v Jedi]

For cleaning I recommend the 3M metal finishing maroon colored Scotchbrite pads. For the tube, get a 3/8” wooden dowel long enough to reach and use ducktape to attach a pad to it like a flag. Put that in a cordless drill and run it through.

Be careful about which kind of grease… I don’t know enough about it but think someone will know and post. My first idea would be white lithium grease but that is a wild guess based on nothing really. I do know that the wrong grease will lead to trouble.

[Hotsoup]

Finally got it out by having one person wiggle it with a clamp I made, another with torch heat from the bottom, and me pounding it through with a brass punch while spraying sili kroil for about an hour. Don't hit the top of the rudder shaft because it will mushroom the top. (learned that the hard way and had to grind it down once out to get it back in). I tried an air hammer which did not work.

Lots of corrosion, but after a soak in CLR for a couple hours and scrubbing with a 180 grit scotch brite pad, everything cleaned up like new with minimal effort.

Thanks all for the suggestions, much appreciated.

[Cheechako]

From the color of the shaft it almost looks like someone put the wrong stuff on there...?